LF brake getting hot!

bobs409

 
Administrator
Going crazy trying to find this brake problem. Car is a 1966 Impala, all stock, drum brakes. Left front brake gets VERY hot after a drive. Car pulls to the left mostly but the other day, it had a few violent pulls the right as well??? I believe these cars 65-68 are known for pulling one side or another.

I put new shoes on about 2 years ago and rebuilt the wheel cylinders. Has a master cylinder from a 45k mile Corvair. Checked shoe adjustment many times but was always ok. I decided to put new brake hoses on thinking that HAD to be making this side stay on. NOPE! Same deal after those. Lastly, I tried new spring kits thinking maybe they were weak and not pulling the brakes back but again, same thing! While I was in there, I looked all over and see no damage or anything wrong. I greased the contact points on the backing plates where the shoes rub and there is no wear/groove there to hold the shoes up.

I'm running out of things to try! The other 3 drums do not get hot, only the LF. I just got back from a test drive and it was hot enough I could smell the paint of the drum or wheel? Jacked it up and it spins but has a slight brake drag. (not much) Checked the RF and it spun easier.

I can only think that this brake is not releasing properly? Don't know what to try at this point.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
Corvair master cylinder ??? Dual or single . ??? Do you have proper gap between push rod and master cylinder to where master can fully release
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
Single, same in appearance to the original. Pedal seems ok, the other brakes aren't getting hot.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
Corvairs use same master as the full size car. Master isn't going to heat up just one drum.
But if adjustment is not equal on front shoes and petal release is not correct is my thinking. Also asking dual or single master not knowing if there was a difference between corvair and 66 impala.
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
I'm going to go into that wheel cylinder and make sure it looks good yet on the inside. I rebuilt all (4) a few years ago. I visually checked the steel lines and they look good with no kinks. I think I'm going to take the small line off that goes to the LF hose and make sure the fluid passes freely both directions. There is also a block that all 4 lines go into. Just want to make sure nothing is restricting the return flow. ??

My other thought is to watch the wheel cylinder in action but with the drum off, I have to rig something to keep the shoes from spreading out too far or the wheel cylinders pistons will pop. I'd like to see if the pistons are retracting right away after releasing the pedal. Maybe they are not retracting all the way?? I don't know.

It's an odd one. :scratch
 

cdb

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Does the car pull to the hard left also when it’s cold first starting out on the drive , or just after longer drive and fully heated up ?
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
Does the car pull to the hard left also when it’s cold first starting out on the drive , or just after longer drive and fully heated up ?
It was only a slight pull when I started out. Once it got heated up, it was more aggressive. When you put the brakes on in this car, you hold the wheel! :driver
 

cdb

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I would check wheel cylinder, maybe not fully returning, you said new hose, so how about the hard line leading from junction block to hose, maybe a kink or partial blockage in it, or partial blockage in junction block leading to drivers side cylinder prevent full fluid return to the master. Maybe pull drum, and put very light pedal pressure so you don’t blow out wheel cylinder pistons, And see if shoes return normally, or hanging.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
You might be on the wrong side. If right is not grabbing properly ,it will pull to left. You said right grabbed violently at times. Fluid leak on shoes???? . Did you replace hose on right side?? Check that wheel cylinder also .You never mentioned resurfacing drums which you should now for the unequal braking now. Also check for bent backing plates on both sides . If right side is not braking as it should then left is doing most of braking and would get hotter. You should also replace rear brake hose ,they collapse and act like a one way check valve not releasing pressure. I had a rear completely plugged.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
You might be on the wrong side. If right is not grabbing properly ,it will pull to left. You said right grabbed violently at times. Fluid leak on shoes???? . Did you replace hose on right side?? Check that wheel cylinder also .You never mentioned resurfacing drums which you should now for the unequal braking now. Also check for bent backing plates on both sides . If right side is not braking as it should then left is doing most of braking and would get hotter. You should also replace rear brake hose ,they collapse and act like a one way check valve not releasing pressure. I had a rear completely plugged.
I missed that. Absolutely pull to left while braking is usually right side problem
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
The right side gets normal warm so it's working. The LF gets very hot like it's dragging. I did have the drums cut only a few thousand miles ago. I did replace both hoses and no leaks in either cylinder. (had both drums off today) I also adjusted both sides today so they started out the same adjustment. I suspect something is not releasing all the way in the LH side. I'll do some further checking tomorrow.
 

cdb

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I had a 65 Impala in early 1980s when I finished school. Removed 283 glide and put fresh LS6 454 in it with a stick. Had the original drum brakes and master cyl from day one. It did stop okay I guess lol. I must have been nuts. Car was a beast, had 396 emblems on it but no one believed it. I guess God protects the stupid.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
The right side gets normal warm so it's working. The LF gets very hot like it's dragging. I did have the drums cut only a few thousand miles ago. I did replace both hoses and no leaks in either cylinder. (had both drums off today) I also adjusted both sides today so they started out the same adjustment. I suspect something is not releasing all the way in the LH side. I'll do some further checking tomorrow.
When does it pull left, going down the road or just when you step on brakes?
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Are your shoes wearing equally on both sides, sometimes new pads are not shaped correctly to fit in the shape of the drum. Chinese junk.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
You could jack up front and check and see if both wheels turn easily then pump and apply brakes and release petal of course then see if both wheels turn about the same. If left hangs up then loosen the lf brake line going into hose. If wheel loosens up it has pressure not releasing some where. If it then don't release its not fluid pressure but binding like maybe cylinder pistons.
 
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