I'll give you $400.00 for it .
Metal project: The 2 x 72 belt grinder begins...
- Thread starter bobs409
- Start date
You should have made a catch pan!!!!Forgot to mention, the radius jig also makes circles!
I did one in 1/4" plate and 2 at the same time in 14 gauge. Had to keep dipping in water to cool them.
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I also added this nifty handle to push the tensioner down. Just push down and take the belt right off! I love how easy it is to change belts.
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Here's the mess it can make.
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Something like that is in the back of my mind. I think I'm going to nix the dust collection idea I had, there's just too much metal particles (dust) and I am only using it outside anyway. I was thinking of making a funnel shaped item that sits under the wheel area to catch the debris/sparks flying off and a tube running down to a catch can.
I also have to make a water pan to dip parts in.
Got to use the radius jig again and WOW, this thing is COOL! 
I just had to share these pics.
This piece is for another attachment I'm working on for the belt grinder so it got to help make a part for itself! I just screwed in the 1/2" pin and set the table. The 36 grit belt ate it for lunch! I then made a pass with the finest belt I have to smooth it all up. So beautiful! 2 perfectly formed radius's in 1/2" steel plate in a matter of minutes.
It could do this all day long. I love this damn thing!!! 
(the mag drill gets credit for the holes) 
I just had to share these pics.This piece is for another attachment I'm working on for the belt grinder so it got to help make a part for itself! I just screwed in the 1/2" pin and set the table. The 36 grit belt ate it for lunch! I then made a pass with the finest belt I have to smooth it all up. So beautiful! 2 perfectly formed radius's in 1/2" steel plate in a matter of minutes.
It could do this all day long. I love this damn thing!!! (the mag drill gets credit for the holes) 
Nice 
Nice
When you gonna start building that belt grinder James??
I can send you the plans for free if you like this design. (my way of giving back for all the help you give others on the forum)
That is a very generous offer Bob, I'll that you up on that. Looks like something that would get a lot of use. Thanks
That is a very generous offer Bob, I'll that you up on that. Looks like something that would get a lot of use. Thanks
No question about it, YOU WILL LOVE IT! I wasn't even sure I needed one but have no regrets. It's quite an amazing machine.
I'll download the latest version of the plans and send them to the email you have on file with the forum. The plans get updated from time to time if they find anything missing or in error so by now I suspect all the bugs will be worked out. When I got them, the plans were missing a few measurements but I was able to figure things out.
There are a few things I'd suggest doing differently but you decide how to build yours. I tend to be a purist so I tried to make it according to plan. There are a few things I'd do differently if I was building another since I'm now an "experienced" belt grinder maker.
I'll make a list and share that soon, it will probably be of help. 
It was a hell of a lot of fun to build but it does take some time. You'll have to keep us all posted with progress reports!
Got them, Thanks again Bob.
Made my list. A few things I would change to do this build over again.
First is the (4) hinge plates. There is no reason to make them half round unless you really like the look or enjoy torturing yourself! (it's nice looking but makes for a LOT more work, it was the most miserable part of the build) I would simplify this by using square or rectangular plates with the 2 corners rounded or knocked off. (you don't even have to knock the corners off if you didn't want to)
Another thing about the hinges is that there is NO need for that round adjustment groove which is difficult to machine even with a rotary table. You're only going to put this grinder in the full vertical or full horizontal position, why all this adjustment? I opted to skip that and simply drill 2 holes for a locating pin in either of the 2 positions. KISS system in play there.
Another suggestion I can add is don't bother trying to remove the weld seam inside the square receiver tubes for the tooling arms to slide into. Much easier to just mill a clearance groove on the tube that slides into it. Sure beats trying to file that weld seam out!
While on the tooling arms topic, my supplier ran out of 1/4" wall so I had to get 3/16" for some add on's I'm currently working on. To me, there is no difference, feels just as rigid. I'd stay with the 1/4" for the receiver tubes but the tubes that slide in can be either 1/4" or 3/16" IMO. The thicker is better I guess but not needed. (I'd let price and availability make that decision)
The one other thing I was not happy about (and still am not) is the tilting table. The hinge placement is not in a good spot. When the table is tipped up at an angle and brought up to the belt, the one hinge hits the belt! You can't get the table up close to the belt because of this. I even went back and rechecked the drawings thinking I made a mistake but it was as shown. Of course, I already had it completed. I will be fixing this on mine but it's going to be a lot of welds to cut. !@#!
Lastly is the motor plate. There is an 1/8" protrusion on the motor case and that is why he machined in that 4.5 inch hole. I see no reason to go through all that over 1/8 inches of depth! I bolted mine directly up to the plate and welded 2 alignment tabs to locate the motor. Another item about the motor plate is the plug welds. I didn't use them but rather did a few stitch welds around it. I found that deep plug welds can often be deceiving. You "think" you got a good weld at the bottom of that hole but did you? Those are 1/2" deep holes, very hard to get a good hot weld that deep.
I think that's it. Not trying to nit pick it to death but those are my top complaints.
Other than those, it's built like a Sherman tank and performs awesomely!
A few things I would change to do this build over again.First is the (4) hinge plates. There is no reason to make them half round unless you really like the look or enjoy torturing yourself! (it's nice looking but makes for a LOT more work, it was the most miserable part of the build) I would simplify this by using square or rectangular plates with the 2 corners rounded or knocked off. (you don't even have to knock the corners off if you didn't want to)
Another thing about the hinges is that there is NO need for that round adjustment groove which is difficult to machine even with a rotary table. You're only going to put this grinder in the full vertical or full horizontal position, why all this adjustment? I opted to skip that and simply drill 2 holes for a locating pin in either of the 2 positions. KISS system in play there.
Another suggestion I can add is don't bother trying to remove the weld seam inside the square receiver tubes for the tooling arms to slide into. Much easier to just mill a clearance groove on the tube that slides into it. Sure beats trying to file that weld seam out!
While on the tooling arms topic, my supplier ran out of 1/4" wall so I had to get 3/16" for some add on's I'm currently working on. To me, there is no difference, feels just as rigid. I'd stay with the 1/4" for the receiver tubes but the tubes that slide in can be either 1/4" or 3/16" IMO. The thicker is better I guess but not needed. (I'd let price and availability make that decision)
The one other thing I was not happy about (and still am not) is the tilting table. The hinge placement is not in a good spot. When the table is tipped up at an angle and brought up to the belt, the one hinge hits the belt! You can't get the table up close to the belt because of this. I even went back and rechecked the drawings thinking I made a mistake but it was as shown. Of course, I already had it completed. I will be fixing this on mine but it's going to be a lot of welds to cut. !@#!
Lastly is the motor plate. There is an 1/8" protrusion on the motor case and that is why he machined in that 4.5 inch hole. I see no reason to go through all that over 1/8 inches of depth! I bolted mine directly up to the plate and welded 2 alignment tabs to locate the motor. Another item about the motor plate is the plug welds. I didn't use them but rather did a few stitch welds around it. I found that deep plug welds can often be deceiving. You "think" you got a good weld at the bottom of that hole but did you? Those are 1/2" deep holes, very hard to get a good hot weld that deep.
I think that's it. Not trying to nit pick it to death but those are my top complaints.
Other than those, it's built like a Sherman tank and performs awesomely!
Oh no, he's still at it!
Today I introduce a bevel jig invention for the 2 x 72 belt grinder. (raining outside so I can't test it today)
The pictures and text tell the story. Basically it's used to produce even an bevel across the part, all the way around or from part to part depending on the situation. Repeatable! Trying to achieve this by hand is difficult, but not with this tool!
P.S. don't you just love the adjustment wheel? I bought that 4 inch round outer ring at my metal supplier last year and was just waiting for an excuse... You can also practice your driving but sorry, the horn doesn't work.
Today I introduce a bevel jig invention for the 2 x 72 belt grinder. (raining outside so I can't test it today)
The pictures and text tell the story. Basically it's used to produce even an bevel across the part, all the way around or from part to part depending on the situation. Repeatable! Trying to achieve this by hand is difficult, but not with this tool!
P.S. don't you just love the adjustment wheel?
I bought that 4 inch round outer ring at my metal supplier last year and was just waiting for an excuse... You can also practice your driving but sorry, the horn doesn't work.
Another day, another attachment!
Today we have a Small Wheel sanding attachment for the 2 x 72 belt sander. (plus template guide wheel)
You can buy these but what fun is that???
Wheel holder body is made of aluminum and is bolted to it's own tooling arm so when needed, simply slip this attachment in and your ready to go. (no tools needed!)
This attachment can be used in both vertical or horizontal positions.
I added (2) auxiliary rear 1.5" rubber wheels that you can use to wrap the sanding belt under to sand tighter areas when needed. (see pics) These would only be used when needed as they would wear due to the sanding grit being in contact with the wheel surface. (pics show and describe this process better) To use, just loosen the thumb nut and rotate the wheel assembly upward, a stop pin locates it for you, then wrap belt around and under these wheels. I made these from some 1.5" aluminum round stock and the rubber portion is just an old car radiator hose! lol If they wear out, plenty more hose around here.
I made up 4 diameters of wheels; 3/4", 1", 1.5" and 2" and all have a rubber sanding sleeve. Some store bought versions don't even have that added luxury! (found the sleeves on amazon after some diligent searching, link below if you want to build this) The sleeves are twice as long as needed (4.5) so cut them in half, use one set and sell the other! lol These are installed on a piece of 1/2" cold rolled steel. The ends are turned down a little to accept the 6001RS bearings. No tools needed to swap in the wheels either, just slip one in and wrap the belt around it. Done!
In addition to those 4 wheels, I also made a 1 inch steel Template wheel. I don't think anything like this is available commercially, it's an idea I got from a you tube video. It has 2 larger bearings (R8) at one end for a template to ride on allowing the sanding belt to shape the part. Great for making multiple parts quickly! (sorry, no examples available yet of that process)
One thing that is still needed is a better table build specifically for this attachment. I'm still in the planning stages on that. Something that will go around the shape of the belt. For now, the regular tilting table is usable.
Link for rubber sanding sleeves used on this project:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQH325N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Today we have a Small Wheel sanding attachment for the 2 x 72 belt sander. (plus template guide wheel)
You can buy these but what fun is that???
Wheel holder body is made of aluminum and is bolted to it's own tooling arm so when needed, simply slip this attachment in and your ready to go. (no tools needed!)
This attachment can be used in both vertical or horizontal positions.
I added (2) auxiliary rear 1.5" rubber wheels that you can use to wrap the sanding belt under to sand tighter areas when needed. (see pics) These would only be used when needed as they would wear due to the sanding grit being in contact with the wheel surface. (pics show and describe this process better) To use, just loosen the thumb nut and rotate the wheel assembly upward, a stop pin locates it for you, then wrap belt around and under these wheels. I made these from some 1.5" aluminum round stock and the rubber portion is just an old car radiator hose! lol If they wear out, plenty more hose around here.
I made up 4 diameters of wheels; 3/4", 1", 1.5" and 2" and all have a rubber sanding sleeve. Some store bought versions don't even have that added luxury! (found the sleeves on amazon after some diligent searching, link below if you want to build this) The sleeves are twice as long as needed (4.5) so cut them in half, use one set and sell the other! lol These are installed on a piece of 1/2" cold rolled steel. The ends are turned down a little to accept the 6001RS bearings. No tools needed to swap in the wheels either, just slip one in and wrap the belt around it. Done!
In addition to those 4 wheels, I also made a 1 inch steel Template wheel. I don't think anything like this is available commercially, it's an idea I got from a you tube video. It has 2 larger bearings (R8) at one end for a template to ride on allowing the sanding belt to shape the part. Great for making multiple parts quickly! (sorry, no examples available yet of that process)
One thing that is still needed is a better table build specifically for this attachment. I'm still in the planning stages on that. Something that will go around the shape of the belt. For now, the regular tilting table is usable.
Link for rubber sanding sleeves used on this project:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RQH325N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1