NOS standard bore pistons

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Some of you guys know I've been "collecting" standard bore forged pistons for about a year now. Thanks to Denny Ford and Phil Reed, a few Ebay scores and some local swap meets, I've now got a gaggle of 'em to go through and evaluate.

I noted that some of the pistons have "ring land" issues, and some buddies told me of a shop in town that had some solutions for that top ring (trim and shim). I hadn't ever been to that shop, but the Proprietor is an older guy (like many of us!) and is well respected around town. I thought I'd stop by and check things out.

OK, I'm in the middle of a nut and bolt, frame-off redo of a car, and I'm wayyyyy behind schedule (only over budget by a small magnitude :)) and I'm about 80-plus percent complete, so what am I doing fooling around with pistons, you ask? Well, I ran into some parts problems in assembling the interior pieces, and had to order some unbelievably insignificant pieces (those bezels that go around your door locks) before I put the side panels on. Thanks to Brad at Phil Reed's for having them on the shelf just 120 miles away!

So I had some time during the day yesterday, scheduled to work on the SS, and I detoured over to this shop on the Business Loop to show him my pistons (how's that for a line?).

I enter the shop and there's a couple of fellas picking up parts for a SBC performance build. They spot the pistons and asked "if I was working on a lawnmower?" :) :) :). Funny how those big 4 and 5/16" slugs attact attention, eh? They knew they were 409 pistons, too! In fact, the one guy immediately said "W?", and asked if it was a 348 or a 409!!! After doing business with the owner, the two guys leave, wish me good luck on the project, and I introduce myself and my pistons to the owner, named Elson.

Elson holds one of the pistons up for a minute, eyeballs the surfaces and ring lands, measures the piece then gaps the lands. Not a word is spoken. He is fixed on the pistons. Then he turns to me and says "I'll be right back" and heads off to the back of his shop.

He's there for maybe 3-4-5 minutes and I'm looking around his shop noticing some pretty old stuff on the shelves and racks.... I don't know about you, but I really enjoy being in places like that, it really takes you back to a time when ppeople were fair, trustworthy, and did stuff for others because they could and would. Upon Elson's return from the depths of his shop he sets a box down, and inside it are five (5) NOS standard bore 409 pistons!!! Three of one kind and two of the other (in terms of reliefs for the valves). Nice!!!

They have never been used, been sitting on a shelf for years. The place had a fire, and these were in that fire. Pretty clean (not burnt up), but no boxes and the pins have some "shelf oxidation" after so many years. Need to be careful in extracting them.

NOS is very different from "NIB" (new in box), as effort is generally required to make them as they once were... These are those "377" high compression pistons made for GM by TRW (I think it was TRW).

Here's a pic of those five pistons:

Enjoy!
TomK
 

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Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
More shelf life?

I kinda got the feeling that if I hadn't stopped in and inquired, Elson would be there twenty years from now, and those pistons would still be on the shelf :) :) :).

I did leave him a sampling of the less-than-good used pistons, the ones with slightly sloppy ring lands. He said he would look into cutting them clean and using some sort of shim along with the new ring set. More later as that develops.

This pic of the pistons also shows the components that will complement these pistons.

regards,
TomK
 

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dq409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Tom, I guess I have to be the one to call you on this one !!!

I just can`t understand how you can justify using cast pistons in your engine !!
You seem to be doing a top quality resto on your car but seem to be short spending in an area where you shouldn`t be.
You can get a set of Ross pistons for less then $600 !!!:dunno

Even if you don`t plan on racing this engine,,, I just can`t see not spending the extra dollars on some cheep insurance.
These are parts that you just don`t quickly remove later to upgrade when you have more money.

I would rather see you use forged pistons now and put off spending that money on other parts that you can quickly and easily upgrade later, like interior or body parts.:deal

Don`t take me wrong but I think your thinking is wrong on this point,,,,,dq
 

SS425HP

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Forged Pistons

Jim, ( DQ ) If they are the high performance pistons, they are forged. Only the 340 horse and trucks, I think, used cast pistons. all HP were forged pistons. Heavy, but forged.

Fred
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Forged, but oldies

DQ:

As Fred mentions, these are the factory original forged pistons. Kinda heavy, but definitely useable. I've been over the thought process a few times, and know what the finished product will reside in -- a driver car owned by me :).

I am struggling with the connecting rod decision, and it would be nice to think I could buy new pistons and new con rods for every build. But the reality is if I want to build and retain several of these "W"s, not necessarily for drag racing, but for driving about, using factory grade parts will probably suffice. I'll probably drive these like I do my other cars -- with some respect for their age and their components :).

Now the stroker engine, that's a different story! I figure one high torque monster is enough for me, the rest will be "stockers" and "drivers".

I know there are risks involved. And compromises sometimes have to be made. Plus I'm just a prudent (frugal? cheapskate?) kind of guy :). Ten years from now I'll buy you a beer and cry over mine if I turn out to be wrong :).

Cheers,
TomK
 

dq409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
SS425HP said:
Jim, ( DQ ) If they are the high performance pistons, they are forged. Only the 340 horse and trucks, I think, used cast pistons. all HP were forged pistons. Heavy, but forged.

Fred

never mind,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,sorry ,,, I knew that,,, :stooges

got a bad cold and I think my brain is full of snot,,
continue on Tom,,,, O about that beer:cheers
 

Impalaguru

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Hey Tom,
Thats a great story! Lucky you!! I thought I might throw this out there. My engine had a piston crack in the top ring groove. The grooves had "grown" over time and I don't know if that contriburted to the crack. It was #4. However, they were 340hp pistons (cast) and did have over 171,000 miles on them. Maybe the forged pistons are more durable:dunno

I can understand not wanting to spend the $$$ on pistons for several engines. I just bought a set for my engine and they are by no means inexpensive. I also upgraded my rods, so I have over $1000 in just the pistons and rods.

I wish the best for your builds!!

P.S. If anyone needs a good, std 340hp piston for #4 or #8 I've got one!! I bought a replacement for my cracked piston and couldn't sue it.

Ross
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Ross, How did you find that crack? Did you have the engine torn down for a re-build and find it? Did the crack cause a particular symptom? The nerve of GM!!! To build an engine that would only last 171,000 miles. Or did it? Did you tear it down because you felt it was time, or was it smoking badly? If it wasnt smoking, how far would it have gone?
 

Impalaguru

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Ronnie, the engine started making a strange noise, and after doing a compression test and other things, I determined it was either a collapsed piston skirt or some sort of piston problem. The engine still ran just a perfectly as it always did, it just had that piston slap noise. I took the engine to the machinist and he tore it down and found the problem. Also found that my other pistons had "expanded" ring gaps!
I was hoping to replace #4 piston and keep going for a little while longer but I had considerable taper in the bores and it turned into one of those "might-as-well" situations.
I think GM must have done something right!! Even with all the miles, it still ran quiet and smooth. Held good oil psi (40 cold 23-25 HOT) and it would not over heat. Even idling for over a half an hour in July waiting to get into the Goodguys meet. I drove the car every day for 7 months (Jan 19th 2004- Aug19th) when my other daily driver quit. NEVER let me down. I would have drove it to The 348-409 Convention. Thank you, Tonnawanda.
Ross
 

4onthefloor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Finding a place like that was a miracle...remember when there were real parts stores like that ? Nice and dirty and people who worked there actually knew what they were talking about...and knew what YOU were talking about.
 

oldskydog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Tom,
Nice find but I have to ask what I thought would be the obvious question. Where did you find a block that is still standard with no taper that you can use these in? I didn't think there were any out there. Or maybe you have 8 sleeves.
 

jim_ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Hey Tom, When I was thinking about re-using the stock rods Curt Harvey said that the pin end could sometimes get stretched into an oblong shape from over reving. If you had a machine shop check that and maybe magnaflux them to look for cracks I'll bet they'd be fine. Of course new rods would be stronger but alot of guys have reved these engines way higher that you're likely to so I'll bet they'd be fine.
 

chevymusclecars

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Tom

I had already balanced the parts for the bottom end of my 409 before I found an article in October 1975 Popular Hot Rodding titled "Performance-Building Chevy's "Obsolete" 409". The article talks about a guy from Akron Ohio that raced these engines and some of the tricks he used to get horsepower and reliability. If I had seen the article before my lower end was finished I would have done things differently. I would suggest you either find the article or I could probably scan it for you before building the engine.

Bill
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Thanks!

Bill from Cleveland, thanks for the tip and the pointer to the article. I don't believe I've read that one and would be interested in doing so. If you could get your hands on a copy, I can provide an address :).

Cecil, good question. I have a 1963 QB block with a standard bore and minor taper. It's not perfect, but close enough. This is more of a "nostalgia build" than a "performance build". I got the block from a retired machinist (who I met while doing my crankshaft modifications for the stroker) who removed a complete 409 from a tractor pulling setup. He got the tractor from a former cusotmer. It had the stock(high perf) forged pistons and 340 horse heads and intake. Not sure what ever happened to the 690 heads and 2x4 intake. Probably gone a long time ago. After doing the crank work for me, he offered the complete engine to me for a very fair price. He had it all cleaned up and was going to assemble it using the existing parts. My plans are to return it to its original stock build, but of course with parts from different 1962 engines (heads, intake, carbs, bellhousing, transmission) and then put it in my SS car at some point in the future. Plans are to put the recent stroker build in another vehicle, something muscular and nasty :):):).

Cheers,
TomK
 
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