Nova Gasser
- Thread starter 409gang
- Start date
A little more headway on the Nova, I put SS screw in studs in the heads for the headers today. I could not get header bolts in as my primary tubes are 2-1/4" so I installed 3/8-16 SS studs in the heads, the three center studs I was able to use standard 3/8-16 nuts (9/16" wrench size) but on the four outboard studs I took 5/16-18 SS nuts (1/2" wrench size) drilled them out and tapped them with a 3/8"-16 tap in a lathe. I was able to get the smaller nuts on by tightening them down evenly.
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I need to get around to doing the same!
The studs made it so easy and I could screw them in all the way. They are 1.25" long and about half or so went into the head, if you use bolts you are almost restricted to 3/4" long bolts and the flange is 3/8' which leaves only 3/8" to go into the head (not enough in my opinion when there are no other supports on the exhaust system).
Ops, I thought you were talking about the header studs.
I going to cut up a shaft out of a car distributor as the truck shaft had a square cut end on it and there was a roll pin through the bottom of the gear that drove the oil pump. A car distributor has a blade on the end of the shaft instead of a roll pin. I can't believe they used a roll pin to drive the oil pump!! 
I will use an old small block distributor to cut the shaft NOT a W motor distributor, thought I should make that clear so I don't get a bunch of feedback for cutting up a W distributor.
I will use an old small block distributor to cut the shaft NOT a W motor distributor, thought I should make that clear so I don't get a bunch of feedback for cutting up a W distributor.
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I ran into a problem like that also. Found that some of the later small block distributor had smaller shafts so they aren't good donners.
I didn't think of that James, that shaft is .490 i will just get a piece of 1/2" rod and turn it to .490, mill 3 flats on it for a chuck and mill flat blade on the other end.
Like you stud solution Steve. Studs might make install easier on smaller size headers also if there's room to slide the headers on..also, the sealer won't be smeared all over the place. When I get done putting mine on, my tiny little hands look like the piranhas have been feeding on them.
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Do you use an anti-seize .....or any kind of Loctite. I know that electrolosis is going to happen either way and obviously with a stud you just go hand tight correct .......????.......Thanks in advance
I'll loc tite mine in Keith.
No locktite but a little anti-seize, studs are hand tight and my heads had all the holes heli-coiled.
I don’t know about those heads, but stock heads have some exhaust bolts that go through to water... might want thread sealant on those??
We are building headers for a ‘56 Chevy right now, we used a couple studs for mock up because they are so much easier to get on and off for fitting, so I will be using studs for my headers too when I put them back on...
Love this car by the way... can’t wait to see it in person!!!
Rick
What do you have for heads Steve and your thoughts on hand tight and anti seize?
I might not have room to slide the headers on if I loctite the studs in first, so may have to do like you're talking.
I might not have room to slide the headers on if I loctite the studs in first, so may have to do like you're talking.
Dave, my heads are LWA heads and all the exhaust stud holes have been heli-coiled. My motor was ran on a dyno with no sealer on the header bolts with no water leaks. The holes are blind holes and I ran them in finger tight. Once their tightened down the studs are just as tight as the nuts, a little anti-seize never hurts.
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If using stainless studs, you better use anti-seize.
I thought LWA heads were Edelbrock’s unfinished and they just finished they head.......I know at one time supposedly LWA cast their own aluminum 690 heads but I remember you could not get them