Original Rearend
- Thread starter CVECCH409
- Start date
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
Any suggestions would be GREAT!!!!!
I have no idea
Original rear housing. Bearing cap girdles, 30 spline / large bearing axles, webbed housing, 2nd upper control arm bracket with extensions, Wilwood aluminum calipers / hubs, custom made aluminum adaptor flanges.
Mounting surfaces at axle flanges are 1/2" narrower on each side ( 1/2" more wheel clearance )... housing is still stock length.
NICE ! Very nice!
You must have some serious horsepower there. Sounds like it needs a serious rearend. Is that Currie complete drop in for that price? They do make a good product. I have a ford 9 in mine no disk brakes.I got 2000.00 in mine and mostly used stuff and lots of my labor, Maybe 3500 is not so bad.
Atwood KS
That's NW Kansas, near the Nebraska border, correct?
Perhaps you'd be interested in connecting up if a bunch of us decide to get together in the Midwest this summer? No firm plans as to date and location, but there are a number of guys with 409 cars that like to get together and race at both large and small venues
.
Cheers,
TomK
Columbia, MO
That's NW Kansas, near the Nebraska border, correct?
Perhaps you'd be interested in connecting up if a bunch of us decide to get together in the Midwest this summer? No firm plans as to date and location, but there are a number of guys with 409 cars that like to get together and race at both large and small venues
.Cheers,
TomK
Columbia, MO
bakerman94
Member
Here is the address for the Atwood Early Rod Run.
http://www.atwoodrodrun.com/
My cousin's car is the orange 32 Ford Coupe on the web site this year. It won overall first place last year. He is currently workin on another 32 Ford Coupe with a 409. I can't wait to see it.
Atwood is a good time.
Been there for the last 3 years. You won't be disappointed.
Stop by the motel if you get a chance. My uncle's car club "The Road Nights" from Loveland, CO have the motel reserved.
We will be cooking up hotdogs the night of the dance. I am planning on having my 409 there.
Jeff
http://www.atwoodrodrun.com/
My cousin's car is the orange 32 Ford Coupe on the web site this year. It won overall first place last year. He is currently workin on another 32 Ford Coupe with a 409. I can't wait to see it.
Atwood is a good time.
Been there for the last 3 years. You won't be disappointed.
Stop by the motel if you get a chance. My uncle's car club "The Road Nights" from Loveland, CO have the motel reserved.
We will be cooking up hotdogs the night of the dance. I am planning on having my 409 there.
Jeff
CVECCH409
Active Member
I had my 63 there last year it's a dark blue 09 with 18 & 20" wheels I raced a 70 olds 455 poor guy .
Hopefully we can get some more 09's out there this year. Aubrey I'd sure like to get that same set up from you. My email is cvecchiarelli@hanksautobody.com. My visa # 1963 6363 6363 0490 expires 04/09 kidding if you get this please email me. thanks
Hopefully we can get some more 09's out there this year. Aubrey I'd sure like to get that same set up from you. My email is cvecchiarelli@hanksautobody.com. My visa # 1963 6363 6363 0490 expires 04/09 kidding if you get this please email me. thanks
bubbletop1961
Well Known Member
My visa # 1963 6363 6363 0490 expires 04/09 kidding
WOW, That was funny. My jaw just hit the keyboard.
WOW, That was funny. My jaw just hit the keyboard.
I have no idea
Original rear housing. Bearing cap girdles, 30 spline / large bearing axles, webbed housing, 2nd upper control arm bracket with extensions, Wilwood aluminum calipers / hubs, custom made aluminum adaptor flanges.
Mounting surfaces at axle flanges are 1/2" narrower on each side ( 1/2" more wheel clearance )... housing is still stock length.
Aubrey, how did the upper extentions help? How does it change the instant center.What are the dimensions of the uppers? I have been chasing a wheel hop problem for years. I have air bags, boxed stock uppers/lowers, poly bushings and drag shocks. Rear still hops with street tires. Launches fine with slicks. Car was dead level when I ran 255/15/60s. I have 275/15/60s now with a very slight forward rake. What are you using for upper control arms?
My visa # 1963 6363 6363 0490 expires 04/09 kidding
WOW, That was funny. My jaw just hit the keyboard.
My keyboard is broken with a jaw imprint also. :eek: :eek: I just have had a round with Mastercard and have a new card issued because of a bunch of fake paypal changes that they didn't want to remove. Mastercard removed them!!!!!(new card issued
bang ) Phil don't ring me up more 348/409 parts on my old card as you will be surprised robert
bubbletop1961
Well Known Member
This is a link to how my upper relocate went. Hope it helps a little. I havent tried it with regular radials.
http://www.348-409.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11700&highlight=upper+relocate
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
I remember that thread, Bubble
Ray, it was easy
With the two brackets already installed, I had the empty housing mounted to the control arms, and raised and supported it in the chassis, at ride height.
I then simply unbolted the left upper from the housing, and lifted it to the point where I wanted the new bolt location to be ( about 1 3/4" ), and propped it up there. I then made a pair of carboard templates, and cut some 3/16" plate in the shape I needed them, and tack wended them to the tops of the existing bracket on the housing... marked where the hole has to be, pulled them back off, went to the drill press, and drilled the two new holes.
Went back to the car, placed the two plates on top of the existing left-side control arm bracket, ran the bolt through the assembly ( plate / control arm bushing / plate ), and welded the plates to the top of the bracket.
Not close... just a very simple way to get it dead on.
Then I reversed the procedure for the right side.
The factory shims are still in the upper mount at the frame, I'm using factory upper and lower arms... so the housing is where the factory put it. Nothing disturbed.
What did it do ?
Well, for the first time in this car, when I launched it on clean, new pavement... I got that jump/lunge that I've been seeking for three(3) years
Mind you, I still had to use no more than about 2/3 throttle, letting the clutch out at about 4000 RPM...
When the front tires came off the ground in the first 20 feet, I got excited, floored it... und spun the slicks off again.
Rear shocks too loose... wouldn't let the rear come back down when the nose was up... hampering the weight transfer.
Just a shock tuning problem now... which by comparision, is easy !
Ray, it was easy
With the two brackets already installed, I had the empty housing mounted to the control arms, and raised and supported it in the chassis, at ride height.
I then simply unbolted the left upper from the housing, and lifted it to the point where I wanted the new bolt location to be ( about 1 3/4" ), and propped it up there. I then made a pair of carboard templates, and cut some 3/16" plate in the shape I needed them, and tack wended them to the tops of the existing bracket on the housing... marked where the hole has to be, pulled them back off, went to the drill press, and drilled the two new holes.
Went back to the car, placed the two plates on top of the existing left-side control arm bracket, ran the bolt through the assembly ( plate / control arm bushing / plate ), and welded the plates to the top of the bracket.
Not close... just a very simple way to get it dead on.
Then I reversed the procedure for the right side.
The factory shims are still in the upper mount at the frame, I'm using factory upper and lower arms... so the housing is where the factory put it. Nothing disturbed.
What did it do ?
Well, for the first time in this car, when I launched it on clean, new pavement... I got that jump/lunge that I've been seeking for three(3) years
Mind you, I still had to use no more than about 2/3 throttle, letting the clutch out at about 4000 RPM...
When the front tires came off the ground in the first 20 feet, I got excited, floored it... und spun the slicks off again.
Rear shocks too loose... wouldn't let the rear come back down when the nose was up... hampering the weight transfer.
Just a shock tuning problem now... which by comparision, is easy !
So some of those double adjustable shocks would be killer then
Spendy yes but they are excellent for issues like this and can be dialed in with no tools so you can have street settings and strip settings. I played with a set yesterday on a car.
So Aubrey, what do you think the optimal height is on the extension? I see another member has raised his uppers 2". With the 1 3/4" extended bracket could I use a straight uper control arm instead of the stock arched ones?
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
Ray, I'm BY NO MEANS even a half-wit when it comes to this stuff, so I can only talk of what mine did. And what it did, was literally JUMP up out of the hole. Quite a sensation really ... On the initial hit, the rear of the car RAISES about 2" on the suspension.
Yes, I believe the raised mounting would allow straight upper arms.
TomO... again, as I mentioned above
: ... 
... though I can't help but think that lowering that front mount on thr frame, would create a really wierd "pivoting" action of the rear axle housing in it's range of suspension travel, because the upper and lower front mounts end up, theoretically, almost on the same radial axis. Would also seem that it would cause some ungodly, horrific force on the upper bracket on the frame
Don, My daughter did a short video... 2-3 seconds too late
.... catches the car JUST as the front end came back down, and the tires let loose... again
good noise though
I've been trying to post the video on my website for 8 months, but there's something wrong with my system
... On the initial hit, the rear of the car RAISES about 2" on the suspension. Yes, I believe the raised mounting would allow straight upper arms.
TomO... again, as I mentioned above
: ... ... though I can't help but think that lowering that front mount on thr frame, would create a really wierd "pivoting" action of the rear axle housing in it's range of suspension travel, because the upper and lower front mounts end up, theoretically, almost on the same radial axis. Would also seem that it would cause some ungodly, horrific force on the upper bracket on the frame Don, My daughter did a short video... 2-3 seconds too late
.... catches the car JUST as the front end came back down, and the tires let loose... again good noise though
I've been trying to post the video on my website for 8 months, but there's something wrong with my system