PlumCrazy 62 SS stroker Build
- Thread starter plumcrazy
- Start date
Uhhgg. Glad we asked before we had something in the air swinging.
Thanks Don, Ill grab this...
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1955_1970_Fullsize_Cars/XMXF59647.htm
Thanks Don, Ill grab this...
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1955_1970_Fullsize_Cars/XMXF59647.htm
I used this one
Seemed more adjustable.
http://www.lategreatchevy.com/chevy-crossmember-700r4-transmission-1959-1964.html
Seemed more adjustable.
http://www.lategreatchevy.com/chevy-crossmember-700r4-transmission-1959-1964.html
This is the one I use on every conversion I do. Fits perfect!
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=140
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=140
Thanks Brian, but crap, we pulled the trigger on the Ecklers one already, so if it doesnt fit will return and grab the one you sent....
Quick question, I have 2" dropped spindles, should I then buy regular sized springs? For the back we bought the CPP 2" dropped springs but went with standard on the front thinking if we already had dropped spindles, the 2" cut spings would be 4 total? Worse case, we could take an inch out later?
Quick question, I have 2" dropped spindles, should I then buy regular sized springs? For the back we bought the CPP 2" dropped springs but went with standard on the front thinking if we already had dropped spindles, the 2" cut spings would be 4 total? Worse case, we could take an inch out later?
Yes, stock height in front with drop spindles and 2" drop in the rear will be perfect.
2pc from Mountain Driveline. Fantastic guy, great price and so far very happy to recommend....
Heres the link....
http://www.348-409.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19415&highlight=ride+height&page=12
Heres the link....
http://www.348-409.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19415&highlight=ride+height&page=12
Kurt, I know you don't plan on racing this car, but, as big as the motor is and the power that you'll be making you should consider 1350 U joints all the way through on the driveshaft, it is a bigger U joint than the 1310 and will not break. You'll have to get the trans yoke in the 1350 size as well as the pinion yoke. If Mountain Driveline is going to build your DS you'll have to specify the 1350 U joint for the center. Talk to Brian about the smaller U joints.
Tom, great catch and thanks for pointing it out. I didnt specify but did mention it would produce a fair amount of power and he said he would add the "red" seal u joints. it arrived today but I'll be back at the house Friday, what do I check for?
Kurt, I got this off Google and a Chevelle Forum.
"the 1350 is bigger, 1310 is 3 1/2 inches accross the 1350 is 4 1/2 inches accross the front face where the straps attach"
"the 1350 is bigger, 1310 is 3 1/2 inches accross the 1350 is 4 1/2 inches accross the front face where the straps attach"
I am using Mountain Drivelines driveshaft with 1350 ends and a 1310 center. I had some problems at Thompson this year where I broke the center joint. I replaced it with another solid joint, went up to the line and broke the driveshaft in half. What I did find when I got home was that the left motor mount and the trans mount were broken (both Poly mounts from Energy Suspension), which was probably the cause of the driveshaft to break. This was a new driveshaft I had just received, to replace a Mountain Driveline shaft with all 1310 solid (red seal) joints. I never had any problems with the first shaft though which is why I am thinking that the motor and trans mounts caused the new shaft to break.
I guess I need to go to solid mounts....
Brian
Tell them the truth, the second break may have been caused by the
10.5X31x15 that got mounted on Saturday Morning. It just might of caused
the carnage.
Allen
Tell them the truth, the second break may have been caused by the
10.5X31x15 that got mounted on Saturday Morning. It just might of caused
the carnage.
Allen
Yeah, there were other factors as well, which did include the massive slicks Allen let me borrow.
You can say that again 
Tom, I think were in trouble and I have the 1310. Heres a photo and looks like 3 1/2. Ill call and order the right one. :takethat
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Cooling question. We had to get a Griffin radiator not just for better cooling but we went with a cpp 5003 aftermarket steering box. My question..
We have a 62 with original ac. We popped the radiator and it has another in-place for the AC. I also have an aftermarket trans cooler for the 700r4. So, the new setup will have a griffin, trans, and ac radiator? Whats the best setup to deal with this? Electric fans or a clutch driven off the pump? :?
We have a 62 with original ac. We popped the radiator and it has another in-place for the AC. I also have an aftermarket trans cooler for the 700r4. So, the new setup will have a griffin, trans, and ac radiator? Whats the best setup to deal with this? Electric fans or a clutch driven off the pump? :?
You will be fine with that one. I ran it in my car for over a year and made many a run down the track with no problems.