Project with my Grandson

[Swiss Impala]

How did you this spatter effect for the trunk paint?

 

[Nuts]

Franz - Picked up a rattle can of DulpiColor (splatter). Worked good and matched the origianl.

Bill

 

[Swiss Impala]

Bill, thank you for the information. I shall try.

Franz

 

[Phil Reed]

Check your paint cans.....most trunk splatter paint is water soluble. Getting water on it will make it "run". Be sure paint apply a couple coats of clear to fix the problem.

 

[tripower]

Check your paint cans.....most trunk splatter paint is water soluble. Getting water on it will make it "run". Be sure paint apply a couple coats of clear to fix the problem.

As Phil said most of the trunk splater is water base and requires a clear coat to seal. However I did find a patroliam base that dose not require the clear. Looks factory and very easy to apply with a primer gun. Cleans up with Laquer Thinner.

This is the stuff I used.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRUN...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51962d0182

 

[Nuts]

Okay so we're making some progress on the Skylark... Thought I'd post an update and ask a couple of questions

Got the front suspension torn down and ready for paint.

Grandson and his friend Dillon cleaning parts.

The shop looks more like it's one of my projects - Stuff thrown everywhere !!!!

Okay so now a couple of questions...

Can't seem to get the upper ball joint off the control arm. I've ground down the revits and tried to drive them out with a drift, but they don't move ??

Also, I can't seem to get the backing plate off the spendle...

Any help you can give me is appreciated..

Thanks
Bill

 

[Ronnie Russell]

wheel cyl mounting bolt out? Going from memory so thats dangerous. The stud that anchors the springs at top ?

 

[de31168]

Yeah when you flip that spindle over, at the top of the wheel cylinder should be a.. hmm. 1 and 1/8"? bolt head with part of a washer bent over one of the sides. Bend the washer back and hit that bolt with an impact and she should spin free and the whole assembly fall apart. As far as the rivets not coming apart.. there may be some areas ground down that were missed or where the heating of the metal grinding "welded" the rivet center to the control arm. A pointed head attatchment on an air hammer should do the trick real well.

 

[Nuts]

Ronnie,

That's a good thought, and I've been trying to figure out how you get the out ?? I used my biggest/longest breaker bar and that doesn't seem to budge either. It is threaded right handed or left ?

Bill

 

[de31168]

thats what the bolt looks like.. it's on the left side of the picture. It's a regular right hand thread. - Atleast it was on my 59 Chevy.

 

[Nuts]

Thanks, I'll look at it again tonight and see if I can figure it out...

Bill

 

[62impala409]

Need to center drill the rivets about 80% deep with a bit a little less in dia. than the rivets are to relieve the side tension and then drive them out. Leo

 

[58 Apache]

Bill if memory serves right the replacement ball joints come with bolts and nuts to re-install that require drilling the holes slightly bigger anyway.

 

[yellow wagon]

Derry, usually don't need to drill the holes bigger. The bolts that come with the balljoints fit the holes that are left after the rivets are removed. At least that has been my experience.

I did exactly what Leo said. Cut the tops of the rivets off, drill some holes and then get out the air chisel to pound them out. Great project. Shoot restoring a Chevette would be fun as long as you got to do it together! Good for you

 

[Nuts]

Okay, lots of good ideas, have to put them to work this weekend and see if we can get it apart. Need to get some painting and putting back together started before he looses interest !!! I know he's getting tired of just cleaning stuff up and no REAL progress.

Bill

 

[boxerdog]

Nice project, Bill...looks like fun and a collection of pictures to me! Godd to see you getting dirty, too.
Dave

 

[Ishiftem]

Ha! I remember being the parts cleaner. Good times.

 

[62impala409]

Bill, What are you using for paint on this project. Allow me to recommend GM "Black Reconditioning Paint" part #105004. This comes in gallon cans ready to spray. Quick drying. I used to buy it from GM dealers and I believe Eastwood sells it too. This paint comes in a satin finish and has some flex to it which makes chip resistant. The label says GM uses it for under hood sheet metal and all chassis parts. I have painted frames, firewalls, suspension parts, inner fenders, under hood black and core supports. Used to pay about $50 a gallon ten years ago. Leo

 

[62impala409]

This what I use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Restoration-Black-Chassis-Paint-/180694761028#vi-content

 

[Nuts]

Leo, I'm using POR15... I used it on Ms Bela, ten years ago and it still looks like new. Even thought the frame is not really rusty, it dries hard as a rock and lasts forever. I'm using the SimiGloss finish.

Bill