Rear end alignment?

[sp6t1348]

Got the rear back in, rear is 1" off center favoring the driver's side. All new UMI 3 link suspension system, using there non adjustable upper control arm and non-adjustable panhard bar. The UMI panhard bar has the same dimensions as the GM bar; 31&3/8" center to center. They make an adjustable bar that will extend out to 31&7/8", providing another 1/2"

Any suggestions or ideas??

 

[MRHP]

Get yourself the adjustable bar.

 

[sp6t1348]

Brian,

That is what I thought; do you think the bracket that relocates the frame side mounting position is worth doing? Supposed to get the bar parallel to the deck...

 

[Fathead Racing]

Have you confirmed that it is at stock ride height? What are you measuring off of to come to this observation, the frame or the body? As the suspension goes through it's travel max up and down the axle center will change due to the arc of the panhard bar. I did get the adjustable bar to center mine just for aesthetics.

 

[Dr Richard Kimble]

I think Fathead just nailed it. with no load , the panhard bar should be just "up" from horizontal.
Obviously , if the rear of the car is raised , the rear end will be off to one side .

 

[sp6t1348]

Measures are off of frame; body is center on frame too; so you can see it at the wheel well. Ride height is about 1/2" taller with new springs. Put gas adjuster shocks in with coil over springs. Found out that stock panhard is 31&1/2" and the UMI is shorter at 31&3/8". I don't like that airbagged lowrider crap; It looks like it should be at Cecil County Dragway in 1965!!

 

[sp6t1348]

What is the proper nomenclature of the gauge used for drive line angles; I am looking to get one and need some input. I am trying to properly set the car up and make it handle like new and maybe make a "small tire" pass or two!!! Now I am looking at the front end and thinking about changing the upper and lower control arms to the tubular ones that minimize the bumps stop. The car is not lowered, in fact it is sitting about an inch higher or so all the way around.

 

[1961BelAir427]

If I remember right it's called an "inclinometer"......I bought mine off Ebay for about $10 shipped. It's magnetic and digital. Has an option to "zero" it if you are working on something that is not level, but you need to compare another angle to that.

Also would like to add that if buying an adjustable panhard bar, make sure to get one that is Double adjustable. That way you can center the rear without unbolting the bar. I bought an adjustable one years ago that is not double adjustable. I have to unbolt the bar and make my adjustment to length and then TRY to get it bolted back up. Not very easy to do since you have to shift the whole rear. I think I used a ratchet strap or come-along the last time.

If I ever have to redo that I will be buying a different bar.

 

[Fathead Racing]

Measures are off of frame; body is center on frame too; so you can see it at the wheel well. Ride height is about 1/2" taller with new springs. Put gas adjuster shocks in with coil over springs. Found out that stock panhard is 31&1/2" and the UMI is shorter at 31&3/8". I don't like that airbagged lowrider crap; It looks like it should be at Cecil County Dragway in 1965!!

Be careful with the coil overs with the shock mounts as they are not designed for the extra stress that they will put on them.

 

[sp6t1348]

Be careful with the coil overs with the shock mounts as they are not designed for the extra stress that they will put on them.

Thanks sir,

Is that the upper shock mount that is the issue? If so, is there any way to reinforce it without major surgery?

 

[Fathead Racing]

Yes the upper has failed especially with the should never be used air shocks. I never did it but I'm sure you could beef up upper and lower shock mounts to handle either coil overs or air shocks. Usually not a major job.

 

[sp6t1348]

Yes the upper has failed especially with the should never be used air shocks. I never did it but I'm sure you could beef up upper and lower shock mounts to handle either coil overs or air shocks. Usually not a major job.

I had Lakewood Drag Shocks on the rear (came with the car). I don't want to materially alter the car, trying to get away with bolt on equipment. This car was raced at one time; before I got ahold of it. I appreciate the guidance. I can probably make a couple of brackets to beef it up. Going to drop the gas tank anyway; it is new but it has stale fuel in it...

 

[sp6t1348]

If I remember right it's called an "inclinometer"......I bought mine off Ebay for about $10 shipped. It's magnetic and digital. Has an option to "zero" it if you are working on something that is not level, but you need to compare another angle to that.

Also would like to add that if buying an adjustable panhard bar, make sure to get one that is Double adjustable. That way you can center the rear without unbolting the bar. I bought an adjustable one years ago that is not double adjustable. I have to unbolt the bar and make my adjustment to length and then TRY to get it bolted back up. Not very easy to do since you have to shift the whole rear. I think I used a ratchet strap or come-along the last time.

If I ever have to redo that I will be buying a different bar.

Got the Global West Panhard Kit with the double adjustment and weld in bracket coming. Just dropped the fuel tank to safely weld the bracket in and have room to do so. I hope to have it in this weekend. Wiring harnesses came in over the weekend, along with some last bits and pieces. I hope to have the engine off my break in stand and in the car this weekend.

 

[awsumcars]

Just checkin' in on your project and wanted to know how the rear suspension install went? I'll into a similar build stage, but your a few steps ahead of me. I'll be yankin' the ol' rear suspension today and gettin' ready for the new. Any tips or suggestions would be helpful.....

 

[sp6t1348]

Just checkin' in on your project and wanted to know how the rear suspension install went? I'll into a similar build stage, but your a few steps ahead of me. I'll be yankin' the ol' rear suspension today and gettin' ready for the new. Any tips or suggestions would be helpful.....

Thanks to my good friends on this website; Fathead and the rest of the guys, the rear end install turned out perfectly. I just finished installing the engine and transmission.

I used a combination of UMI and Global West suspension components; UMI 3 link kit and the Global West Adjustable Panhard with bracket; providing the ability to center the rear. Everything on the suspension is new or rebuilt; fore and aft. It is stock ride height. Plan to spend a good deal of time; if you are reusing the stock 3 link, a trip to the media cabinet, new bushings and powder coating or paint is in order. I added a rear sway bar and an aftermarket front swaybar that was suggested by a fellow member here.

What are you using for your new setup?

 

[awsumcars]

This site is great huh....I read all the info on your build as well to get me where I'm at now as well.
I going with adjustable UMI 4 link and adjustable panhard. I bought some springs and air bags from a member, so with adjustable shocks, I should be pretty well set up for the 1320 ride. My '63 Belair frame has been partially assembled for years, so it was the perfect opportunity to practice on it first, so I decided to add an additional stock upper control to it since it was pretty convenient sitting there with no body on it. I cut the bracket off a beater rear end I had, and fabbed it on and used the old upper control arm. Getting the right profile on the bracket to the axle seemed like the hardest part, but now, I should have a good template for the '62 now. I got a after market bracket for the UMI setup.

Attached are pic's of the added stock upper control arm.

 

[sp6t1348]

This site is great huh....I read all the info on your build as well to get me where I'm at now as well.
I going with adjustable UMI 4 link and adjustable panhard. I bought some springs and air bags from a member, so with adjustable shocks, I should be pretty well set up for the 1320 ride. My '63 Belair frame has been partially assembled for years, so it was the perfect opportunity to practice on it first, so I decided to add an additional stock upper control to it since it was pretty convenient sitting there with no body on it. I cut the bracket off a beater rear end I had, and fabbed it on and used the old upper control arm. Getting the right profile on the bracket to the axle seemed like the hardest part, but now, I should have a good template for the '62 now. I got a after market bracket for the UMI setup.

Attached are pic's of the added stock upper control arm.

Looks great!! I have a broken rear I was thinking about adding that "extra link" but had already powdercoated the axle housing...Sounds like a good excuse for me to build another "empty housing" Really looks great. Nice work!

 

[models916]

Stock car guys use a bent track bar so it sits level at ride height.. I used one on mine before in changed to angled uppers. Similar to the picture posted.

 

[sp6t1348]

View attachment 34339
Stock car guys use a bent track bar so it sits level at ride height.. I used one on mine before in changed to angled uppers. Similar to the picture posted.

That is tough looking, what car is that on??

 

[Rickys61]

Thanks to my good friends on this website; Fathead and the rest of the guys, the rear end install turned out perfectly. I just finished installing the engine and transmission.

I used a combination of UMI and Global West suspension components; UMI 3 link kit and the Global West Adjustable Panhard with bracket; providing the ability to center the rear. Everything on the suspension is new or rebuilt; fore and aft. It is stock ride height. Plan to spend a good deal of time; if you are reusing the stock 3 link, a trip to the media cabinet, new bushings and powder coating or paint is in order. I added a rear sway bar and an aftermarket front swaybar that was suggested by a fellow member here.

What are you using for your new setup?