Screw in studs 1147 heads

[LMBRJQ 60]

Hi Guys,
What are the issues in putting screw in studs in W heads?
I have done SBC etc in the mill at work in the past but was going to get a local machine shop here to do these for me.
Are there anythings to watch for, how much of the boss should come off to get roller rockers under tin covers?
Is it a case of suck it and see or is there some measurements out there?
3/8 or 7/16 your opinions?

Steve

 

[models916]

7/16 and reduce the height of the pedestal the same as the thickness of the hex on the stud. Use sealer, you'll hit water with them.

 

[LMBRJQ 60]

Thanks Models

Steve

 

[oldskydog]

Or use shoulderless studs and don't cut the bosses.

 

[Phil Reed]

Get the longer big block studs. You need all the threads in the head for sealing purposes.

 

[BB1960]

I used the small block arp screw in studs with sealer and haven't had any problems. I did buy some shoulderless to use, however, didn't like the fact that they don't appear to spread the load as well as a properly designed stud with shoulder. I may be wrong, but it looked like the quick fix rather than the right solution. The only benefit would be not having to remove the head for machining.

 

[tripower]

Get the longer big block studs. You need all the threads in the head for sealing purposes.

I think I used the Ford studs,7/16" on 1147 castings, as they are longer and give you more threads for the poly locks. I remember Tom K having a issue way back when with the BBC 7/16" not being long enough. Maybe he will chime in.

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Dan, you have a good memory!

I had a set of BBC 7/16" shouldered studs put in place on a set of 583s and after about 12,000 miles and maybe 2-3 adjustments of the valve train, I had one come apart. Scared the #$%^ out of me at first, got lucky and found all the pieces.

In my case, it seemed that there just weren't enough threads on the top of the stud to accomodate the adjustments.Might have been a geometry thing. Plus I was getting fairly high in the RPM range when the breakage occurred. I replaced that one keeper and checked all the others, no problems since then and it's been maybe 2 years now?

When building my 348 stroker I went with 3/8" studs on the 1147s. Haven't fired that one up as yet...

Good luck!
TomK

 

[LMBRJQ 60]

Dan, you have a good memory!

I had a set of BBC 7/16" shouldered studs put in place on a set of 583s and after about 12,000 miles and maybe 2-3 adjustments of the valve train, I had one come apart. Scared the #$%^ out of me at first, got lucky and found all the pieces.

In my case, it seemed that there just weren't enough threads on the top of the stud to accomodate the adjustments.Might have been a geometry thing. Plus I was getting fairly high in the RPM range when the breakage occurred. I replaced that one keeper and checked all the others, no problems since then and it's been maybe 2 years now?

When building my 348 stroker I went with 3/8" studs on the 1147s. Haven't fired that one up as yet...

Good luck!
TomK

Hi Tom,
Thanks for that, did you machine the bosses down for the studs?

Steve

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Steve: We did. Had it done locally, he has done a few Ws and is familiar with performance builds, mostly Chevrolet stuff. I think I have the only W stuff in his shop. I went with 3/8 just because I had a new set of 3/8" rockers laying around. Went with the good moly push rods. I hope it to be a solid build, maybe around 400 horses? It's a date coded FH block designated for my 1961 Belair Sport Coupe. Limiting feature will likely be the original 3x2 intake and carbs, but it will look cool .

Best,
TomK

 

[region rat]

ARP makes a variety of stud lengths. So does Crane and Milodon

 

[buildit]

I use the BBC studs that are made for aluminum heads, they have extra length on top and bottom. Machined the boss down to 1/8" above the top of the roll pin hole.