Starting new engine this week lifter question

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#1
Hey guys,
So on this start up I am starting a fresh build engine, its been sitting for 3 years since rebuild, we have discussed the procedure and I do have a oil pump priming tool that I will be using, about a teaspoon of new oil will go in each cylinder as discussed previously, so I think I am set, but the question is this........


When I actually fire this thing and the lifters are not primed or pumped up yet, do I let it go right up to 2000 RPM for the 20 minutes cam break in, or do I need to do something prior to that to allow the lifters to pump up?like let it run at low rpm for a few minutes? I know some rockers are slightly loose but we have decideded that its because the lifters are not pumped up yet?

Its my understanding the priming tool is only going to lubricate the lower portion of the motor.
 

Junky

Well Known Member
#6
The engine must be started in a climate controlled room with 70 1/2 degrees, a gentle 4 MPH breeze blowing, and no more that 67% humidity. You need to warm the engine oil to 110 degrees, and use a genuine A/C oil filter that was produced no more than 3 weeks prior to the engines manufacture. Same for the air filter. Gently torque the air filter wing nut to 8 Newton Pounds. You must use demineralized Icelandic Glacial water, but must first adjust the PH to 7.0 from the stated guaranteed analyses of 8.4.... I would use phosphoric acid (H3PO4). Also take precautions of physical damage, by wearing protective rubberized suit, gloves, and a full facial mask. I would also suggest that you not waste your money on new oil, since you want contaminants in the to help seat the rings and the cam. For this, take a trip down to your local Jiffy Lube, and bring a couple of gallon glass jugs. Ask them to fill them and transport them back to your climate controlled room. Warm the oil as directed above, and fill the engine, and screw all these people that are telling you to prime the engine. Just put the warmed oil in, and push the start button. Bring the engine to 5000 RPM as fast as you can, and hold it there for 1 hour. Your engine will be broken in properly. Drive the car for the next 5000 miles, and change oil and filter. Remember, that you are using the new formula oil, even though it is used oil, and it is good for 5000 mile oil change intervals. Good luck with this project, and if I can be of further mechanical assistance, please don't hesitate to ask. I have some great formulas for noisy differentials and 4 speeds, using sawdust.
 

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#9
Junky, thats the kind of details I was looking for, with your help I smell success.


DonSSDD, I tried priming last night with my cordless Milwaukee but never seen oil on the top end (valve covers off), it seemed tight after a bit, like it was meeting resistance, I should point out I was standing at the rear of the engine and facing the front spinning it clockwise, I am using a store bought priming tool, instead of a cut distributor shaft, so I do not know if that can get oil clear up there I do not see any holes in the shaft to oil anything other than the lower portion of the motor. I probably spun the shaft for a good 3 minutes? I need to get rid of this electrical oil pressure gauge and go pick up a mechanical gauge for sure.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
#10
I have friends who obsess over silly stuff, such as part numbers, antiquated procedures, voodoo mechanics, etc. In the end, they do what they want anyway. All I know is that there are usually many ways of getting to a similar result. We all have ways of separating the useful info from the BS. This site is much better than most in that respect.

And most of us prefer "my way" and are a bit stubborn anyway. I have had to prime as long as 10 minutes and I've used a variety of tools, some fit certain blocks better than others. It helps to rotate the engine periodically. Cordless drills might not have the stamina for this task.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
#18
I have a Show Cars one, and I also made one up like Models created a long time ago (IIRC). I always wanted to make one out of a distributor too, but I'm too lazy. The fit is important as you can pump a lot of oil right back into the pan if the slug doesn't seal.