Dual Carb linkage and Fuel filter routing

Jayz63

Well Known Member
Hello everyone. Does anyone have a picture of their carb linkage setup for the factory AFB's and a picture of the fuel routing line after the fuel filter? I getting close to finishing he project but I would like to be prepared with the linkages before I get to that point. I looked on the forum but wasn't able to find any good pics of the linkages and fuel lines for both carbs. Thank you in advance
 

Jayz63

Well Known Member
Here are the linkages I do have not sure if they are correct or if they will even work. Also included is the fuel filter. I know I don’t have the correct fuel filter but I’m going to make it work. If anyone has any pics of how they ran their lines I would appreciate the guidance
 

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pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
Your carb DSCN6884.JPGDSCN6885.JPG62 2-4 carbs-#4.jpg

your linkage looks like 348 tri power to me. Your fuel filter looks right, the fittings attached to it are not right.

Pictures above of factory 409 2-4 linkage on my Edelbrock 2-4's on my 62 SS 409 Hardtop -this linkage is correct for Carter AFB carbs, Note the pull back springs mounts on the intake manifold. The pull back springs on this linkage are not the original springs that are much thicker than the ones I used here.

The last picture above is factory fuel lines and fuel filter for factory Carter 2-4's. Everything in that pictures is 100% factory original 1962 Chevy 409/409 (except the radiator hose clamps and heater hose clamp on the intake). Its the best picture I can find for now.
I have some of this linkage if not all of it.
Paul
 

Hoyt99

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
My ‘63 is set up exactly as above, except there is an additional 1/4” fuel return line and a third connector (for exiting fuel) in the filter. The line goes all the way back to the fuel sending unit, where it goes back into the tank. The return was apparently developed as a countermeasure for heat related fuel percolation and hard starting or no start conditions.
 

Jayz63

Well Known Member
I found a couple more pics that show a more clear picture
 

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Jayz63

Well Known Member
I ordered a new set of fuel lines for my car. If anyone needs the info on what they need to build the line your self it should included
A 26-1/8” length of 5/16” metal fuel line with double flaired
A 8-1/2” length of 5/16” line between carbs
(2) 1/4” 90 degree to 5/16 compression fittings
(1) 1/4” tee two female one male connection
(1) 3/8” male to 5/16” female fitting for fuel pump out
(1) 1/4” double male about 1/2” long
(1) 1/4” male to 5/16” compression fitting

Hopefully this list will help others here to make their own fuel line. All that is left if just to determine how to bend the lines to fit correctly
 

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lennyjay

Well Known Member
You have all your parts so looks like your set to go. I just thought I would post a Z11 setup on the fuel line and filter. You can get all the t's and build the steel line yourself. I did not want to deal with a glass bowl, so I have this setup.
1963_z11_impala_gas_line.jpg
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Not to be critical because I like the set up but it looks like that fuel filter is resting on that intake manifold right on top of the water passage that carries the hottest water in the whole engine. I'd suggest at least a 3/4 inch gap between the two,and or making some sort of insulator[maybe a piece of an old radiator hose] to insulate the fuel from the system.
 

IMBVSUR?

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
It would be interesting to see if vapor lock is a problem.
Disclosure first. Please don't kill the messenger and I am not claiming it isn't real, however....... I have been wanting to say this for years, so here it is. When I was younger, I cannot tell you how many times I had people claim vapor lock was their problem. Transmission shifting bad, vapor lock. Points need adjusting, vapor lock. No gas in the gas tank, vapor lock. Bad radiator, vapor lock. Worn rings or valves, vapor lock. Major vacuum leak, vapor lock. Dead battery, definately vapor lock. Lost car keys, you guessed it, vapor lock. Vapor lock had to be the number one issue in the 70's. It has tapered slowly off since. Dont shoot me Dave, not saying anything about your post, I'm just reminiscing of the boogie man that plagued so many of the peoples cars I have met.
 

Iowa 409 Guy

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Sure Jeff but clothes pins on the gas line wouldn't fix any of those problems:dunno2

We were on vacation in NW Iowa when I bought my first tank of gas with alcohol in it. Next morning car wouldn't start so in my infinite wisdom I called bad gas, drained the tank and put in new good gas. Bad trouble shooting, jumping to a wrong conclusion. New points solved the problem.
 

wristpin

Well Known Member
Sure Jeff but clothes pins on the gas line wouldn't fix any of those problems:dunno2

We were on vacation in NW Iowa when I bought my first tank of gas with alcohol in it. Next morning car wouldn't start so in my infinite wisdom I called bad gas, drained the tank and put in new good gas. Bad trouble shooting, jumping to a wrong conclusion. New points solved the problem.
New points solved the bad gas problem :good
Long story short...built a bike and sold it. Few days later it had electrical problems. I rewired it and also put in new stator and rotor and regulator/rectifier. Then i found the gas tank was empty. Apparently adding gas fixes electrical problems.
 

lennyjay

Well Known Member
The filter is off the manifold by at least 1" (bad angle shot) and on its own insulated bracket off the front bolt. I live in AZ so if you don't have a phenolic spacer under the carbs the fuel will boil right out. I sleeve most of the lines after I check for leaks.
 

427John

Well Known Member
Disclosure first. Please don't kill the messenger and I am not claiming it isn't real, however....... I have been wanting to say this for years, so here it is. When I was younger, I cannot tell you how many times I had people claim vapor lock was their problem. Transmission shifting bad, vapor lock. Points need adjusting, vapor lock. No gas in the gas tank, vapor lock. Bad radiator, vapor lock. Worn rings or valves, vapor lock. Major vacuum leak, vapor lock. Dead battery, definately vapor lock. Lost car keys, you guessed it, vapor lock. Vapor lock had to be the number one issue in the 70's. It has tapered slowly off since. Dont shoot me Dave, not saying anything about your post, I'm just reminiscing of the boogie man that plagued so many of the peoples cars I have met.
The only boogieman in the scenarios you listed was the one behind the steering wheel and their total lack of understanding of how an automobile works.As far as your perception that it was most prevalent in the 70's makes perfect sense being that is the time frame when widespread use of emission controls were starting to be seen most of them using leaner mixtures which required retarded ignition timing both of which contribute to higher underhood temps.Added to that was the much lower grade of gasolines available,given those conditions it would be more surprising to not have vapor lock issues surface.As the manufacturers got feedback they made changes to fuel systems,emmissions control systems,and engine compartment airflow to varying degrees of success.With the advent of EFI and the move away from carburetors you saw a drastic decrease in vapor lock related issues, since this phenomena has been around since the advent of carburetors,to say that there is no such thing as vapor lock would be foolish,but I agree that it has been blamed for issues that weren't even remotely related to it.
 
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