I would be wary of the Eagle crank as it needs a lot of machine work out of the box to make it right. Like many here, I have used that exact same one about 5 years ago, hopefully quality may have changed since. In retrospect, and at the time, a Scat or an oem 454 crank would have come better and cheaper (including machine work).....348 block, eagle 4” crank, forged rods and pistons...
So when these guys use a 454 crank, are they using the forged piece or cast?
Don, I've asked questions about this in the past and the answers I was getting was that you would still have to mallory the aftermarket cranks to balance them.I wouldn't mind a cast crank at 500 hp,6,000 rpm,but over that it'd be steel only.The only caviot is that the 454 crank is externally balanced and the cost of having Mallory metal added to bring it back to neutral balance usually makes it cheaper to just use an aftermarket crank made for the W engine in the first place.
Nope, I didn't know enough when I put it together so I went with a forged crank thinking I needed it. My engine builder told me afterwards that its built proof but wasn't necessary for my 500hp goals. For my application I should have used a cast crank but when I bought the 1970 454 crank it was $70 so after having it machined it was way cheaper than buying one done.SuperStocker I take it you used a cast crank in your build,thats what I'm using in the stroker for my truck.It will have the unported 333's and a hydraulic cam so no high rpms for this one.The stroker that I'll build to use the ported big valve heads will use a forged crank.