Why not go with a hogan sheet metal intake or the CRW/LWA and grind the advertisement off? You will make more power with either if those options for sure. The edelbrock dual 4 intake is a good piece. Just needs some port matching and cleanup. Could use that with a set of carb spacers. Or Aubrey's intake with a big spacer would work also. 650hp should be attainable
I've never actually checked, but I hear the sheet metal intakes cost about $3000. It'll probably be a few years before I could make a step like that. Even then, I don't know if I could justify spending that on an intake when I can get results that are at least fairly decent for much less. I can see them for serious racers who are chasing that last little bit, but I'm more in it for the fun.
Also, I can't see a new sheetmetal intake that would either be too tall to fit under the hood...OR....compromised design with too short runners. I'd have to pick one or the other...so I'd pick "compromised to fit under the hood" and then I'd forever hate spending a ton on something that wasn't optimized.
I don't mean to redirect your thread,but at what point (valve lift) would I need to cut cylinder for valve relief if I would want to end up with 11:1 compression ratio in a passenger car block 409.at 11:1 I'd like a hot street car,that would get some track time,how hot a cam could I use before it would have poor performance and or loose reliability. Oh and I'd opt for a Hogan intake
I had to notch my cylinder wall for exhaust clearance at .632 lift.
You won't bother me by asking questions in my threads so don't feel like you're hi-jacking. For instance when you posted the pictures of your headers in this thread and the conversation swung to those for awhile. I was loving it!
This whole thing I hope will be a lot of help to someone in the future as it is my first W build and I'm trying to get all of that stuff answered in once place. Maybe if someone searching runs across this it'll save them some time. Our members who have so much experience and knowledge on this stuff have been generous with sharing info and answering everything. Some of the questions I have asked in this thread just so the reply would be shown on here.....I'd already been answered on the phone, email, or another thread. Just to hopefully consolidate all the good info.
I think it is earlier in this thread to check with anything over .550" lift in a passenger block. Also, the truck block will usually clear up to about .730" but should always be checked as well. I think you're duration numbers would not effect this figure at all since the block is stationary. With valve to piston clearance duration effects it a lot since they determine where the piston is at in the bore in relation to the valve opening. Minimum V-to-P clearance is usually not at Top Dead Center.
Admittedly I'm conservative,but I wouldnt go more than
235@.050 for street-strip on the intake side,add 8-10 degress for exhaust unless massive porting is planned for the heads.
I'm a little less conservative on cam choise (maybe that is why I didn't do as well on THE TEST ?) but not by much and dependent on whether you're building a stroker or stock crank. I'd say what Don said if going with a hydraulic flat tappet. Maybe slightly bigger with a hydraulic roller......and add 10 to 20 degrees @ .050" duration for a solid flat tappet. I think the lash absorbs some of the duration numbers or something like that. I know you have to have slightly more duration for a solid flat tappet to have similar manners to a hydraulic. It will almost always make more power too....especially at the upper end.
Both Brian (BSL409) and Dick MacKenzie have (had?) an Isky solid lifter cam for sale at a great price right now.
Dick's would be a touch more street friendly......and Brian's more towards the strip side.....in my opinion.....but both would be stout street/strip camshafts.