She's gonna be so fine
- Thread starter Bub6le 2op
- Start date
Hey Thomas why don't you come and help us get a yearly get together started in Chattanooga April 26th you can come thru Bowling Green KY and follow me down
This thing is gonna rip! Great cam selection
Ya I can't wait
Wish I could find a way. That would be great. Trying to get ready for the eldest daughters graduation and preparing for her future schooling at Indiana State.
Your set up should really rev. Got the short stroke and the CR mine doesn't.
I have a niece that goes to Indiana State, she's a freshman this year
Alright guys have been reading a lot of threads about a timing chain and gear, wear plate or Torrington bearing and now I'm lost as last years easter eggs 
so need some help which gear and what plate, coming in to the short rows now, and also Hi volume oil pump or standard........lets hear it
thanks
martin
so need some help which gear and what plate, coming in to the short rows now, and also Hi volume oil pump or standard........lets hear it
thanks
martin
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
Ya' know, Martin, I've been re-thinking this high volume oil pump stuff. Really, I think it only makes a difference at low RPM. When you're revving ( over 2000 ), what the heck can it matter ?
Basically, If you have a nice loose crank,( .0025" - .003" ) for high RPM use, you don't want to be idling around with your stock converter automatic, at 800 RPM, with a standard volume oil pump. When hot, pressure could drop to almost nothing.
On the other hand...
You have a stick car. Your engine will not idle below 1000 RPM. Given the proper cubic inch ( real 409
) engine, cam, the large port heads, the big headers, the single plane intake... you're not going to be doing ANY driving below 2000-2500 RPM.
So, Id say, why bother with a high volume pump, when the RPM is going to provide a volume that will be vented out the by-pass relief anyhow ?
I'm getting a new pump for my Stocker. Did some research. Guys in Stock and Super Stock ( read, "no stone left un-turned, in the never ending quest for horsepower" ) are actually using custom "low volume" oil pumps.
I won't go that far, but I AM going to a standard volume custom pump ( they're about $200 ).
For your street car, I like to see 50-60 PSI at 3000 and above RPM.
About the cam gear stuff.
I use a torrington bearing behind the Cloyes set.
For yours, I'd recommend one of the wear plates that the guys are talking about.
Basically, If you have a nice loose crank,( .0025" - .003" ) for high RPM use, you don't want to be idling around with your stock converter automatic, at 800 RPM, with a standard volume oil pump. When hot, pressure could drop to almost nothing.
On the other hand...
You have a stick car. Your engine will not idle below 1000 RPM. Given the proper cubic inch ( real 409
) engine, cam, the large port heads, the big headers, the single plane intake... you're not going to be doing ANY driving below 2000-2500 RPM.So, Id say, why bother with a high volume pump, when the RPM is going to provide a volume that will be vented out the by-pass relief anyhow ?
I'm getting a new pump for my Stocker. Did some research. Guys in Stock and Super Stock ( read, "no stone left un-turned, in the never ending quest for horsepower" ) are actually using custom "low volume" oil pumps.
I won't go that far, but I AM going to a standard volume custom pump ( they're about $200 ).
For your street car, I like to see 50-60 PSI at 3000 and above RPM.
About the cam gear stuff.
I use a torrington bearing behind the Cloyes set.
For yours, I'd recommend one of the wear plates that the guys are talking about.
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10 psi per 1,000 rpm is the old rule of thumb. I personally think that anything over 15 or 20 at idle (after reaching operating temps) and over 50 above idle is probably fine. I don't think anything would get starved at 6500 or 7000 rpm even if the pressure was down in the 40's or 50's.
That's just my opinion and may well be wrong.....but I think having more is mostly insurance. I like insurance myself when it comes to engines, so I would rather lose a few horsepower and feel safe if mine ends up with 40 psi at idle and climbs to 60 or 70 when rev'd. Of course when (if I ever finish this thing) I race it's just for fun....not like Aubrey's situation where he finding thousandths of a second are important.
That's just my opinion and may well be wrong.....but I think having more is mostly insurance. I like insurance myself when it comes to engines, so I would rather lose a few horsepower and feel safe if mine ends up with 40 psi at idle and climbs to 60 or 70 when rev'd. Of course when (if I ever finish this thing) I race it's just for fun....not like Aubrey's situation where he finding thousandths of a second are important.
Very true Cecil......but it seems like the "high volume" oil pumps always put out a lot more pressure than the standard volume pumps. Is it because the producers know that most buyers will expect to see it? Or is it just because the higher volume of oil is being forced through the same size passages? I think most HV pumps should be labeled as high volume and high pressure. High volume - standard pressure oil pump would be what's needed for most performance chevy builds.
On my build I am going to try out a Melling #M155 pump that was stock in 96 and up Vortec 350's and the GEN II LT1 engines. They have a 3/4" inlet compared to 5/8" on the normal #M55 small block pump. I've always been happy with the oiling in the LT1's I've owned and figured why not give it a try since I already have the pump. Those engines are built a lot "tighter" than what I'm planning, but I think I'll be okay. Time will tell.
This is going to be a fun ride...
JUST SEEMS LIKE IT IS TAKING FOREEEEVVEER.......................So standard volume pump, Steel, Billet, or cast Iron with a wear plate for timing gear, double roller or the new big roller chain
O.K. got a call from the machine shop today, short block is finished
........waiting on valve springs, pistons are .004 out of the hole, all valves have plenty of room without cutting an eyebrow in the block.........surprised mehopefully we will hit the Dyno one day next week need advice on Plugs, Oil, Oil filter,
and distributor
gonna run the factory tach and the 881 with the 2 four barrel carbs I got off of ishiftem, the plan is to take the day off when we dyno and try to take some video and try to post..................I apologize for not posting any pictures but just haven't had time from trying to work just to make this happen. My hat is off to you guys that do these projects and post lots of pictures and posts 
thank you all for your help and suggestions, you can believe this when I say it. I HAVE LISTENED TO EVERY WORD
........waiting on valve springs, pistons are .004 out of the hole, all valves have plenty of room without cutting an eyebrow in the block.........surprised mehopefully we will hit the Dyno one day next week need advice on Plugs, Oil, Oil filter,and distributor
gonna run the factory tach and the 881 with the 2 four barrel carbs I got off of ishiftem, the plan is to take the day off when we dyno and try to take some video and try to post..................I apologize for not posting any pictures but just haven't had time from trying to work just to make this happen. My hat is off to you guys that do these projects and post lots of pictures and posts thank you all for your help and suggestions, you can believe this when I say it. I HAVE LISTENED TO EVERY WORD
Almost there. You're gonna love the way she sounds!!
I know you are as excited as an expectant father Martin. 
I'm as anxious as you are almost. There is a current thread on oil in the 348/409 engine section that covers break in, etc. http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/oil-recs-for-409.26690/
Are you going to run a spin-on adapter or a canister filter? I'm still unsure what I'll have, but I am thinking about trying a canister filter at least for the first few oil changes. It seems like that would make filter inspection very simple. Then after it's broken in well convert to a spin on filter. I think I remember people saying the one that takes a Ford filter is one of the better adapters, but I may be wrong. I do know you have to pay attention that a bell housing bolt doesn't hit the adapter and crack it. Apparently the hole is drilled clear through and it happens often. I hope others comment about this because I haven't ran a canister filter in 20 years....and the old 327 that I had which would have taken one had been converted before I got it.
I'm as anxious as you are almost. There is a current thread on oil in the 348/409 engine section that covers break in, etc. http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/oil-recs-for-409.26690/Are you going to run a spin-on adapter or a canister filter? I'm still unsure what I'll have, but I am thinking about trying a canister filter at least for the first few oil changes. It seems like that would make filter inspection very simple. Then after it's broken in well convert to a spin on filter. I think I remember people saying the one that takes a Ford filter is one of the better adapters, but I may be wrong. I do know you have to pay attention that a bell housing bolt doesn't hit the adapter and crack it. Apparently the hole is drilled clear through and it happens often. I hope others comment about this because I haven't ran a canister filter in 20 years....and the old 327 that I had which would have taken one had been converted before I got it.
Yes.................... I am tore up I also need to know who has the best linkage for a 2 x 4 set up thanks for the thread link Jason
I also need to know who has the best linkage for a 2 x 4 set up thanks for the thread link Jason
Many of us use this copy of the original linkage from ShowCars. Works for me. http://www.show-cars.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=1044
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