Theoretical engine build question

[Gliderider06]

Given the choice of a 409 build, would you bore a truck block to .060 and use a set of TRW L2169/L2270 pistons or a new set of Ross .040 slugs using stock rods and crank and why? Stock-ish 425hp build to have a fun cruiser.

 

[boxerdog]

I wouldn't use the TRWs unless I had nothing else, kinda heavy. Fat rings.

I'd get the Ross pistons ordered as light as possible, more modern ring pack, and I wouldn't be afraid of a stock crank and rods for your application if everything magged and the rods got ARP bolts and quality machine work.

Stock-ish is the key word here. You might go faster than you expect to with a good head and cam package.

 

[Don Jacks]

 

[SSpev]

I wouldn't bore one 60 if it would be good at 40. So I would have to pass on the trw slugs.

 

[SSpev]

I'm slowly going to do the same thing. Still need pistons and cam/lifters/tubes/springs.

 

[1964SuperStocker]

I wouldn't bore one 60 if it would be good at 40. So I would have to pass on the trw slugs.

I'd never bore bigger than needed.

 

[64ss409]

Given the choice of a 409 build, would you bore a truck block to .060 and use a set of TRW L2169/L2270 pistons or a new set of Ross .040 slugs using stock rods and crank and why? Stock-ish 425hp build to have a fun cruiser.

I doubt that you will find TRW pistons. I believe I got the last +.60 in existence and that was at least 25 years ago. They are heavy. Better choices available today.

 

[boxerdog]

To me, the Icons are still the best bang for the buck. Then you would also have the option of using a generic BBC rod for strength and to lighten the piston a bit more, and a lot of Mopar bore sizes.

 

[Don Jacks]

 

[Gliderider06]

So, my block is rough bored at .038 and needs final hone, so I think the Icons are out unless it gets bored again. I have a set of rods already reconditioned, but after looking at the show-cars catalog I see they have new BB bushed rods for under $300. Even though my rods are good, I think it may be the smarter way to go. It will save on the cost of having the pistons pressed on, stronger. lighter pin...
I will opt for the thin ring packs. Makes sense an easy way to free up power. Now time to pick the pistons out and stop changing my mind again on what to do with it.
Thanks, Paul

 

[boxerdog]

If it were mine, I'd finish it at .048 for these, and use BBC rods:

7817P48 ICON 409 10/1 Forged pistons, stock stroke, 6.135 rods, 1/16 1/16 3/16 ring grooves — $835.00

But it's not mine.

 

[Gliderider06]

If it were mine, I'd finish it at .048 for these, and use BBC rods:

7817P48 ICON 409 10/1 Forged pistons, stock stroke, 6.135 rods, 1/16 1/16 3/16 ring grooves — $835.00

But it's not mine.

I looked at them, but the problem I will have is I will need to bore it an additional .010 to get to that size. My block is notched so I will lose out on that compression as well. I'm leaning towards these.

Ross 409 forged pistons 10.5 to 1 stock stroke 6.135 rods 1/16 1/16 3/16 ring grooves | Show Cars | 308-409 Chevy Parts

Show Cars Automotive offers top quality name brands at wholesale prices. Show Cars Automotive 348 and 409 Performance Engine Kits are made from the highest quality parts from some of the most respected names in the auto parts industry.

show-cars.com

 

[boxerdog]

I have used both brands, off-the-shelf Ross and Icon, as well as Aubrey's version of the Ross. I'd verify the compression height and the comparative weight on all of these, but you will be OK with either one. Just pay more attention to quench than compression, especially in the 10-1 or 10.5-1 ballpark. My experience has been that the Ross pistons needed lightening and some valve notch work, but most of that was self-inflicted.

 

[63impalass409]

Better call them to see if they have them in stock 1st.

 

[SSpev]

Do you have a cam in mind? CR and cam kind of has to go together

 

[Gliderider06]

I have an old Isky 286H that has .510" and .224* @.050. Either that one or a modernized 425hp regrind are my thoughts. May even consider a roller, but that I'm uncertain about.

 

[Skip FIx]

With the new advancements ion cam lobe design and making more power and easier on valvetrain of modern lobes I'd sure think pf a custom cam specifically for your combination. not much more than and off the shelf cam. What ever lobe duration and lift as well as lobe separation for idle, power band range.
Some guys still have luck with flat tappets but there have been so many failures either on soft cams, or poor lifter manufacture9not enough crown to rotate correctly) many are switching to rollers either solid with direct oiling to rollers or hydraulic rollers. just need to check what type distributor gear the manufacturer recommends.

 

[boxerdog]

Better call them to see if they have them in stock 1st.

This can be a big deal in some cases. You could be in "cam prison" for longer than you want to be. Showcars has some in stock, others might?? but 409 stuff can be problematic, depending on the vendor and how specific you want to be on the design.

 

[SSpev]

I have an old Isky 286H that has .510" and .224* @.050. Either that one or a modernized 425hp regrind are my thoughts. May even consider a roller, but that I'm uncertain about.

that isky would work with 10:1. Brake in should be done with lighter springs than intended use. you could use 1.7 rocker during the brake in too. I would switch to 1.8 after.

 

[Gliderider06]

that isky would work with 10:1. Brake in should be done with lighter springs than intended use. you could use 1.7 rocker during the brake in too. I would switch to 1.8 after.

This is an older cam/lifter set that was already run before, but I will still install it as a new cam with cam moly lube on the lobes and lifters if I decide to use it. I did think about the 1.75 or 1.8 rockers as well, but haven't looked into it much.
Thank you!