Would have said all 3 of you are correct......but Ronnie posted while I was typing.
Race Engine project planning
- Thread starter 1961BelAir427
- Start date
I've got a pair of 690's, but don't have a 3/8" arbor. I'll buy one if I need to, but first I will just make the cuts with the Edelbrock heads as the guide and with the 11/32" arbor.....and then measure for clearance with the 690 heads bolted on. Maybe there will be enough doing it that way. Sure won't hurt to go through the motions and see.
Since both the 690's were cast on the same day in '62......maybe I should see if someone needs them bad enough to mostly pay for a new set of aluminum heads??
I've seen prices for 690/583's all over the place from $1500 and up over the last couple years. The numbers/date codes wouldn't mean anything on either of my engines as one is a 64 block and one is a 65....and both were 340 HP engines. Not to mention they will be going in a '61 car. So the numbers and dates would be all screwed up for me.They do have stainless steel valves and what looks like really nice port work so I wouldn't be surprised if they flow more than the unported Edelbrocks do. Part of me wants to use them and see what they do.
Casting number, front stamp / suffix code, and Julian Date:
Casting #3844422 - says 1964 Passenger 409 block on the casting # page here.
The front pad has: a very odd looking symbol that resembles most of a square or a C maybe? followed by 283451
Then over a little: T0507QG decodes to: Tonowanda May 07 - 340 HP
In the timing cover area there is: W814 - 962 - 38 - 011
The rear of the block has the same stuff plus: Z - H3
The bellhousing flange has the casting #3844422 GM4
CFD in the location this site shows for the casting date.
and 32 in large raised numbers on the passenger side opposite where the casting date usually is.
Does the "32" mean it was cast Feb 1, 1964?
Exhaust valve clearance notches. The amount of material we had to remove was so slight that we went ahead and shot for approximately .800" lift without a head gasket. Notice that the actual size of the notches varies greatly from one cylinder to the next. We figure that is due to core shift. I figure it's in the cylinders.......Randy says he would suspect the valve locations being off more than the block being out that much. Either way there is a visible difference. #8 needed very little and #1 could have gotten by with no notch at all as it didn't hit until .765" before notching. 
Things left to do:
1. Mock up rotating assembly to check deck height and see how (un)square the block is. Hoping to get by with little to no surfacing of the decks.
2. Clean casting flash from the valley drain back holes and the water pump openings.
3. Balance the rotating assembly.
4. Tap & pipe-plug the oil galley plugs along the oil pan rail.
5. Heli-coil one head bolt hole then vat the block to clean out that last bit of metal.
6. Install cam bearings & freeze plugs.
7. Assemble !!! (still have to check piston to valve clearance and measure for/order pushrods too)
1. Mock up rotating assembly to check deck height and see how (un)square the block is. Hoping to get by with little to no surfacing of the decks.
2. Clean casting flash from the valley drain back holes and the water pump openings.
3. Balance the rotating assembly.
4. Tap & pipe-plug the oil galley plugs along the oil pan rail.
5. Heli-coil one head bolt hole then vat the block to clean out that last bit of metal.
6. Install cam bearings & freeze plugs.
7. Assemble !!! (still have to check piston to valve clearance and measure for/order pushrods too)
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Okay I was too busy to take pictures of my actual parts while we were there Friday night, but since my phone's pictures are so fuzzy anyway......here are some sample pictures of parts for this one. Guess ShowCars could complain about me using their pictures for a lot of these, but I doubt they will since I bought the stuff from them and they are getting advertising. 
Using this part number small block chevy HP cam bearing set and modifying the rear one for the W oiling.
Hopefully this stuff will help someone in the future.
Hopefully this stuff will help someone in the future.
Clevite Coated H series Main Bearings bought from Dan. (Thank you)
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Scat Pro Comp series 4340 I beam connecting rods with ARP 7/16" cap screws. Stroker profiled. I'm pretty sure they came from Skip White, but if not then someone on Ebay. Whoever had the best price at the time. They were around $280 I think.....checked last night and they are $320+.
Randy said that they checked perfectly straight out of the box. He said that is what he usually sees from Scat rods and most Eagle H-beams too.
Looks like Main bearings
if you stay off the forum all the time more work might get done
Even after having to get the rear journal grooved, I still saved a ton on this camshaft. It's "close enough" to what I was planning. Who knows?? Maybe it's better than what I'd planned. 
Good catch Brian......on both counts. If I were away from home working on the engine right now I'm pretty sure the Mrs. wouldn't be happy. Lately the hold up has been waiting on my machinist. I am not complaining at all about that as he has been really great. I pay for anything that has to be done at the machine shop and all the stuff we do at his home shop along with any other fab work he's done for me we have traded out. Honestly I should be sleeping right now, but my back is hurting too bad at the moment.Looks like Main bearings
Herbert solid roller 348/409 lifters manufactured by Morel. 
Jardine headers bought from Dave / boxerdog (Thank you!!) Picture is of Keith's but they are the same. 
Thanks to Ronnie Russell and Jack Gibbs
This will be one stout engine. Get going! First thing I thought about the cam, Big numbers, second thing, the lash looks like a flat tappet cam. Can't wait to see this one perform on the track. Dyno numbers will be worth noting also.
Go Jason.........Brian's funny..........good luck..........enjoy the process.........
Thanks everyone. Ray you mentioned Dyno numbers.......while I was up all night and couldn't sleep I did some searching online to see who has an engine dyno in GA. John Kaase and LWA both do, but I don't really want to use either of those. They would most likely be too busy and too expensive anyway, but I could be wrong.
Reeves Performance in Warner Robbins is only about 45 minutes away and I've had them do some big block chevy machine work many years ago. Good people.....I just haven't used them in years since my friend has a shop in town. I'm planning on calling them in the morning.
Also saw a place called Dixie Performance in McDonough that is about 60 miles away in the same town as Summit Racing's GA store. They had a Facebook page and I sent them an email last night. Hopefully they will reply tomorrow too.
Here is a copy of the message I sent them:
"Hello, I live about 60 miles from you and am interested to know an approximate cost for your engine dyno service. I have no idea what this service would cost or how it is billed (job/hour/number of pulls/other?).
If it matters the engine(s) are Chevrolet 409 (58-65 W series big blocks) based strokers. One is 474" and the other 478". Both have solid rollers and dual quads. Also both engines will have already been broken in on an engine test stand with base timing, jetting, and lash set. Please let me know what all I would need to bring with me. I have an electric water pump to make hookup, accessories simple. I also have 2 different sets of headers that could be used. One set is a 2" primary Jardine fenderwell that I would prefer to use, but if they will not fit your dyno cell then I also have a set of 1 7/8" primary chassis headers. I have heard before that 348/409 headers usually are not "dyno friendly".
I can provide pictures if that will help as I know these are not very common engines.These are my first 409's after wishing for one for over 25 years so I would love to have actual dyno numbers for at least one of them and hopefully both. If I can provide any more information that would help please let me know.
Thank you in advance, Jason"
Reeves Performance in Warner Robbins is only about 45 minutes away and I've had them do some big block chevy machine work many years ago. Good people.....I just haven't used them in years since my friend has a shop in town. I'm planning on calling them in the morning.
Also saw a place called Dixie Performance in McDonough that is about 60 miles away in the same town as Summit Racing's GA store. They had a Facebook page and I sent them an email last night. Hopefully they will reply tomorrow too.
Here is a copy of the message I sent them:
"Hello, I live about 60 miles from you and am interested to know an approximate cost for your engine dyno service. I have no idea what this service would cost or how it is billed (job/hour/number of pulls/other?).
If it matters the engine(s) are Chevrolet 409 (58-65 W series big blocks) based strokers. One is 474" and the other 478". Both have solid rollers and dual quads. Also both engines will have already been broken in on an engine test stand with base timing, jetting, and lash set. Please let me know what all I would need to bring with me. I have an electric water pump to make hookup, accessories simple. I also have 2 different sets of headers that could be used. One set is a 2" primary Jardine fenderwell that I would prefer to use, but if they will not fit your dyno cell then I also have a set of 1 7/8" primary chassis headers. I have heard before that 348/409 headers usually are not "dyno friendly".
I can provide pictures if that will help as I know these are not very common engines.These are my first 409's after wishing for one for over 25 years so I would love to have actual dyno numbers for at least one of them and hopefully both. If I can provide any more information that would help please let me know.
Thank you in advance, Jason"