1962 Bel Air Bubble Top 409 Project
- Thread starter CASHguzzler409
- Start date
Gav, For future reference try Kajun http://www.kajunjon.com/rebuild_kits.htm
Paul's pictures........................the lower clutch for is 1955-1960 applications. The upper clutch fork is 61-62 and 63 409. The upper fork looks like 61. The 62 clutch fork has a hole in the top side for the clutch anti-rattle spring. If the 55-60 clutch fork is used for 61-63 applications...........you will have to make up all the lower linkage.
Nate Waters
Member
Nice looking car!!!
I have to laugh at myself most times when I do the work on the car, its not just do it once, its many times. I had trouble with the spring on the clutch fork, it broke, and I had to take it off to weld it back on, so took tranny out, bell housing off, starter unhooked, both dust shields off, linkage out. Had the spring welded hopefully in the right spot. Now, the laughing part 
, I start to put the bell housing on, the car is up on jack stands, but up high enough to be comfortable. I push the starter to the side and get the bell housing tightened down, laughing now, starter will not hook up as I need to have it in the right place for the bell housing to go on. Take off the bell housing, align the starter, put the bell housing on, smiling now. Oops.... the shield for the flywheel has to go over the starter to make it work. Off goes the bell housing again, not laughing now. Im sure I'm the only one that has these problems, or just likes a good laugh in the garage. So, I have it back to the point where I can now install the tranny, hopefully it will slide in and take up the slack of the clutch fork, as it seems a little loose on the spring. I wonder how many times it will take me?... I should get a pool going, 2 or 3 times. lol
Pictures coming soon. stan
, I start to put the bell housing on, the car is up on jack stands, but up high enough to be comfortable. I push the starter to the side and get the bell housing tightened down, laughing now, starter will not hook up as I need to have it in the right place for the bell housing to go on. Take off the bell housing, align the starter, put the bell housing on, smiling now. Oops.... the shield for the flywheel has to go over the starter to make it work. Off goes the bell housing again, not laughing now. Im sure I'm the only one that has these problems, or just likes a good laugh in the garage. So, I have it back to the point where I can now install the tranny, hopefully it will slide in and take up the slack of the clutch fork, as it seems a little loose on the spring. I wonder how many times it will take me?... I should get a pool going, 2 or 3 times. lolPictures coming soon. stan
I took some pictures hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have a Centerforce Dual Action clutch assembly with short TOB, iron bell housing, clutch fork for a 62 -409, the spring on the clutch fork broke off, so we re-welded it. I'm hoping it wasn't bent when fixed. It does not seem tight to the ball when having to center the clutch fork bearing over the clutch plate. When you center the clutch fork over the clutch hole, the ball it is not tight , just barely touching the spring end to the ball,and it does not line up TOB to the hole for the tranny to go into. When pulling the clutch fork all the way back to set the spring in the ball socket, it is out of line with the tranny hole, as seen in the picture I've never worked on a 4 speed clutch system before, and my mechanics are on the low side, but I keep trying. With your help, I might getter done. thanks cash .
It looks to me like you should be ok. I am not sure if the ball being loose in the retainer will be a problem once all assembled, but I don't think it will. One reason that the throw out bearing is not aligned is that it is on the fork a little too far. The ends of the fork should be centered on the throw out bearing.
Thanks Jim, so if I get the bearing adjusted right and then put the tranny in, will that hold the fork tighter?, and in the right position. Is there a way to make sure the TOB is close to the clutch plate but not touching?.
When the trans is installed and the linkage adjusted properly, you will be able to feel / measure the clearance between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate at the clutch pedal. The free play measurement should be listed in the repair manual.
The only possible thing that could be wrong is the ball shaft that the TO bearing slides onto, they come in different lengths. If you have the correct BH, it likely has the correct ball shaft. If what you have places the TO bearing facing the clutch barely touching the fingers, you have the right one. That spring should hold the fork loosely in place when you slide it in place.
Based on my swearing input, I have found it easier on many occasions to remove the motor/install the tranny outside the car and install both together. Good luck.
Don
Based on my swearing input, I have found it easier on many occasions to remove the motor/install the tranny outside the car and install both together. Good luck.
Don
If you had a tran's shaft loose you could stick it in there and see how thing's lined up.........
Thanks OLDskydog, my "temper" is about 10 on a scale of 1. Is the temper the flex of the spring?. The spring does NOT lay flat on the fork bottom, I guess I'll just have to install the tranny and go from there. Thanks for all the idea's.
He's saying the spring has sprung!!!Thanks OLDskydog, my "temper" is about 10 on a scale of 1. Is the temper the flex of the spring?. The spring does NOT lay flat on the fork bottom, I guess I'll just have to install the tranny and go from there. Thanks for all the idea's.
I finally got the clutch, rods, and clutch pedal adjusted, I think it will be ok, put the tranny back in, drive shaft etc. Here's what I always face, Im trying to take out
the ignition switch, should take maybe 3 minutes. NOPE.... so I go to the manual, it says, put the key in the position of ACC. push in the wire to move the
part that is holding the tumbles in, turn to the right, and it should come off. NOPE so I go back to the internet and get a video of how to take it out.
Its says the same thing as above, but to turn the key to the left when taking it out. Now I've noticed that I cannot move the key to the ACC position ? why not.
I keep trying, I hate a quitter. After about an hr. I think I'll go in and get the original key, just maybe when they made the copies it wasn't right. Put in the
old key..... it went to ACC... pushed the wire and turn to the LEFT and it came out. ONLY 1 hr and 3 minutes... LOL
the ignition switch, should take maybe 3 minutes. NOPE.... so I go to the manual, it says, put the key in the position of ACC. push in the wire to move the
part that is holding the tumbles in, turn to the right, and it should come off. NOPE so I go back to the internet and get a video of how to take it out.
Its says the same thing as above, but to turn the key to the left when taking it out. Now I've noticed that I cannot move the key to the ACC position ? why not.
I keep trying, I hate a quitter. After about an hr. I think I'll go in and get the original key, just maybe when they made the copies it wasn't right. Put in the
old key..... it went to ACC... pushed the wire and turn to the LEFT and it came out. ONLY 1 hr and 3 minutes... LOL