Did you turn back odometer's too?????
1962 Bel Air Bubble Top 409 Project
- Thread starter CASHguzzler409
- Start date
No never did that.... but when he had to repo a car I got the job of changing the lock on the ignition.Did you turn back odometer's too?????
I guess without the car, I wouldn't have as many memories or stories. I wonder what today will bring......? Tripower is it getting cold enough for you.?
At least in Washington we don't have the terrible snow storms, floods, etc.
At least in Washington we don't have the terrible snow storms, floods, etc.
Yeah, glad it warmed up but now we're back to some rain.
Dad had a ring of old GM keys, about 25, same ones from really old until about 65 when they changed. We could start pretty much every GM with one of those keys, but while they fit the ignition, they didn't fit anything else on the car.
Also learned the old trick of turning on the radio without a key in the early cars that came with 4 way flashers. 66? 67? Foot on brake (to keep the 4 way flashers from flashing or the radio will go on and off), turn on the left signal light, push in the 4 way flasher button, turn on radio. Use that at car shows (on their cars) to amaze your young friends.................
Also learned the old trick of turning on the radio without a key in the early cars that came with 4 way flashers. 66? 67? Foot on brake (to keep the 4 way flashers from flashing or the radio will go on and off), turn on the left signal light, push in the 4 way flasher button, turn on radio. Use that at car shows (on their cars) to amaze your young friends.................
Exactly, my dad had the big rings of keys, GM, Ford, Mopar & AMC, same deal that is how we would repo the cars.
I have a question about the dash gas gauge. After taking the dash gas gauge out of the car, and out of its round metal holder, on the back of the gauge at the bottom is white rheostat. That part looks to be in ok condition, its just when you turn the gauge to the up side, where you can read the dial, the rheostat is
held onto the board, from the top by two small pop rivets, one on each end of the rheostat, from these rivet tops, runs a flat piece of metal or foil, that goes from the right side of the rheostat rivet, up to the left post. The left top rivet top runs another piece of foil or metal that also runs to that post and back to the right rivet making a full circuit. A small section is missing from this foil in the circuit, like a fuse that was blown. Question is ? Does this metal or foil need to be replaced or soldered to make the complete flow of current?, and to make the gauge work?. If you can understand my ramblings, let me know your thoughts.
held onto the board, from the top by two small pop rivets, one on each end of the rheostat, from these rivet tops, runs a flat piece of metal or foil, that goes from the right side of the rheostat rivet, up to the left post. The left top rivet top runs another piece of foil or metal that also runs to that post and back to the right rivet making a full circuit. A small section is missing from this foil in the circuit, like a fuse that was blown. Question is ? Does this metal or foil need to be replaced or soldered to make the complete flow of current?, and to make the gauge work?. If you can understand my ramblings, let me know your thoughts.
Or just throw it away.......and buy one from Pual...? lol....
Cash,That circutry you're reffering to is there to act as a voltage staiblizer for the gauge.Yes it must be complete for the gauge to work,but what made fail in the first place is most likely the gauge it's self.Your second post is likely the best choice.
Thanks Don, it has been interesting to see how electricity works and flows. I have another question, in the fuse panel at the top is a 3 amp fuse, it says, inst... when I use my test light, this connection, with or without the fuse, does not light up the tester light. All other fuses light up. Does this mean there is no power coming to that fuse connector?, and if no power, would that mean there is no power going threw the wire going to the gas tank sender plug in ?.
That 3 amp fuse may be your dash light fuse.Turn on the parking lights and see if it gets "hot" on both sides[meaning the fuse is ok].The power for the sensor wire comes thru the gauge and goes toward the tank.The sender is a varible ground for the gauge.
thanks Don, Im starting to learn about these problems and how the electrical parts work. I did get the 3 amp fuse to work. I did not have bulbs in the parking light housings so I tried installing the 1034 bulbs, they did not go into holder. I then read online here that you could file the housing out a little, but decided to just file the two little tit's on the bulb , it seemed to work, but they were a little hard to get in.
Big hands, not much space, but it did go in.
Now I have parking lights bulbs in and working, but pass. side bulb is very bright, drivers side is 1/2 as bright.
I will check to make sure both sides of parking lights have a good ground. I know the bulbs have two elements, and was thinking it was the brighter one that is on when your turn signal is on. ? or is it parking lights that is the brighter one.? Also on Bel Air models are the brake lights, stop lights, and turn signal lights all in the one Tail Light Housing near the fender?. I do have back up lights in the other inside one, I haven't had the car on the road yet, but I do think we might have tested them before, if they are not connected to the fuse box, would that have anything to do with the blinkers not working.?. Are there two different flashers.... one for Bel Air, one for Impala? because of the added tail lights?. Something about a 2 circuit for Bel Air, & 3 for Impala. ?
Im thinking this has something to do with the turn signals.? Before I couldn't get the turn signal handle to move at all, so I got under the dash and changed the position of the wire, on the switch. It did allow me to move the turn signal handle up and down, but the blinker lights never came on in the dash or parking light fixture. They say to have the turn signal switch wire in the neutral position. I also can't understand which position the turn signal arm on the steering column should be in to start with, the steering column turn signal arm should have a neutral position, then you go up or down with the arm lever.
Big hands, not much space, but it did go in.
Now I have parking lights bulbs in and working, but pass. side bulb is very bright, drivers side is 1/2 as bright.
I will check to make sure both sides of parking lights have a good ground. I know the bulbs have two elements, and was thinking it was the brighter one that is on when your turn signal is on. ? or is it parking lights that is the brighter one.? Also on Bel Air models are the brake lights, stop lights, and turn signal lights all in the one Tail Light Housing near the fender?. I do have back up lights in the other inside one, I haven't had the car on the road yet, but I do think we might have tested them before, if they are not connected to the fuse box, would that have anything to do with the blinkers not working.?. Are there two different flashers.... one for Bel Air, one for Impala? because of the added tail lights?. Something about a 2 circuit for Bel Air, & 3 for Impala. ?
Im thinking this has something to do with the turn signals.? Before I couldn't get the turn signal handle to move at all, so I got under the dash and changed the position of the wire, on the switch. It did allow me to move the turn signal handle up and down, but the blinker lights never came on in the dash or parking light fixture. They say to have the turn signal switch wire in the neutral position. I also can't understand which position the turn signal arm on the steering column should be in to start with, the steering column turn signal arm should have a neutral position, then you go up or down with the arm lever.
The tailight housing on the RR 1/4's are just like Impala lights(with park lights, brake & turn signals ) and the tailight housings on the trunk have smaller sockets. I seem to recall different wiring for belair trunk lights vs Impala trunk lights(I think the ones I remember did not have back up lights.). What trunk wiring harness do you have for the 2 trunk lights ? (American Autowire number ?) The trunk wiring harness has to be correct to have backup wiring.
For the parking lights I use a round file and file all sides of both brass sockets to a bright shine, to make the new bulbs fit correctly. The new bulbs will then slide in place without much effort and make good contact. File and test fit, file again and test fit, until the bulbs go in easily but with a moveable tight fit. I have installed park lights this way in 4- 62 restorations , it works everytime for bulb installation and proper contact to be the same light level. I have never had to worry about a ground for the headlite buckets themselves with the filing of the brass parking light sockets.
You should be able to slide the switch that the turn signal wire goes into to check if the turn signals work. The turn signal arm on the column should be centered (up and down) and make the cable fit the switch on top of the column - fit at the neutral position --all to make the signals work in both directions.
Do you have 1073 bulbs for backup lights (assuming you have that wiring on your 4 speed.)
Paul
For the parking lights I use a round file and file all sides of both brass sockets to a bright shine, to make the new bulbs fit correctly. The new bulbs will then slide in place without much effort and make good contact. File and test fit, file again and test fit, until the bulbs go in easily but with a moveable tight fit. I have installed park lights this way in 4- 62 restorations , it works everytime for bulb installation and proper contact to be the same light level. I have never had to worry about a ground for the headlite buckets themselves with the filing of the brass parking light sockets.
You should be able to slide the switch that the turn signal wire goes into to check if the turn signals work. The turn signal arm on the column should be centered (up and down) and make the cable fit the switch on top of the column - fit at the neutral position --all to make the signals work in both directions.
Do you have 1073 bulbs for backup lights (assuming you have that wiring on your 4 speed.)
Paul
I do have the tail lights in and the special wiring harness for the trunk lid, they are the 1073 bulbs and the 1034 in the front parking.
All the lights front and back work, but have to wait just a little longer to test turn signals, and back up lights.
Now that you jogged my brain, I can see the neutral position is by having the arm in the middle of the throw on the column, I was thinking it was in the mechanism in the housing. I think if I have the turn signal arm stuck in right turn position, the bulb would be stuck on bright, then when you release the turn signal arm it would switch back to the dimmer part of the element. i understand now the wire going to the switch would probably have to be in the neutral position also, i think I have it in right or left position. Tomorrow will give it another try. Is it just me, or do you have to take the whole headlight aluminum cover off to get to the parking light bulb.?
All this started when I started checking into the fuel gauge, at least Im learning about my car that way. thanks paul and everyone else for
their support and help. Just a question, is there a separate wiring harness for the clock?. I see they make one for the 58 model, maybe its all ready tied into the main harness and I just don't know it. oh... Happy New Year everyone..... cash
All the lights front and back work, but have to wait just a little longer to test turn signals, and back up lights.
Now that you jogged my brain, I can see the neutral position is by having the arm in the middle of the throw on the column, I was thinking it was in the mechanism in the housing. I think if I have the turn signal arm stuck in right turn position, the bulb would be stuck on bright, then when you release the turn signal arm it would switch back to the dimmer part of the element. i understand now the wire going to the switch would probably have to be in the neutral position also, i think I have it in right or left position. Tomorrow will give it another try. Is it just me, or do you have to take the whole headlight aluminum cover off to get to the parking light bulb.?
All this started when I started checking into the fuel gauge, at least Im learning about my car that way. thanks paul and everyone else for
their support and help. Just a question, is there a separate wiring harness for the clock?. I see they make one for the 58 model, maybe its all ready tied into the main harness and I just don't know it. oh... Happy New Year everyone..... cash
I think all underdash wiring harnesses have the clock wiring in the harness. You would have had to order one without a clock harness I think. I can check the wire color in mine for you to compare to yours. I have seen some used belair underdash harnesses were they did not have a clock without the clock harness.
Yes the aluminum covers have to come off to get at the park light bulb and to use a file on the brass sleeve(assuming you don't want to take the headlite bucket assemblies off the car). You have to remove the wiring harness (twist it) from the brass sleeve slots and then remove the bulb.
Yes the aluminum covers have to come off to get at the park light bulb and to use a file on the brass sleeve(assuming you don't want to take the headlite bucket assemblies off the car). You have to remove the wiring harness (twist it) from the brass sleeve slots and then remove the bulb.
It is known that you should assemble everything in a certain order, makes sense to me. Im in the middle of fixing my turn signal
problem, after a hr. I got the signal switch off, it works fine. The problem now is the turn signal arm is really hard to move up and down.
When reading the manual one part says to make sure both the signal switch and turn signal arm are in the neutral position, then another section says to have both parts in the left position. Any suggestions, pictures really work for me, but words will be fine.
I've read on these post that there should be a plastic sleeve for the thin W wire on the right side to rotate on. IM missing that part, do they have a name for it?, so I could do a search , could someone post a picture of it for me. I doubt they reproduce these, but I do see them in the rebuild kit. thanks, cash
I have a clock in the car, but I have no wiring to it, do you have to order a wiring under dash loom with that all ready made in it?
Or do they sell the harness separate?. I see there is a 58 harness.. just for the clock, wondering if this is good for all years?. Not that I can get my fat hands up and into the area to remove the nut on the clock. lol Lots of questions, thanks for the help.
problem, after a hr. I got the signal switch off, it works fine. The problem now is the turn signal arm is really hard to move up and down.
When reading the manual one part says to make sure both the signal switch and turn signal arm are in the neutral position, then another section says to have both parts in the left position. Any suggestions, pictures really work for me, but words will be fine.
I've read on these post that there should be a plastic sleeve for the thin W wire on the right side to rotate on. IM missing that part, do they have a name for it?, so I could do a search , could someone post a picture of it for me. I doubt they reproduce these, but I do see them in the rebuild kit. thanks, cash
I have a clock in the car, but I have no wiring to it, do you have to order a wiring under dash loom with that all ready made in it?
Or do they sell the harness separate?. I see there is a 58 harness.. just for the clock, wondering if this is good for all years?. Not that I can get my fat hands up and into the area to remove the nut on the clock. lol Lots of questions, thanks for the help.
On my Bel-Air I used American Auto Wire under dash harness and I don't believe there was a wire for the clock and my car does not have a clock. On my current project 60 Pontiac Ventura I also used a American Auto Wire harness and this car does have a clock but, both the original harness and the new harness did not have the wire for the clock, it used a single red wire that attached to a spade at the bottom of the fuse panel under the fuse that read CLOCK. This was the same way the under dash courtesy lights were added on this vehicle as well.
thanks try-power, that makes sense to me.