1962 Bel Air Bubble Top 409 Project

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Way to go Paul, do you think its possible to see your store, or stash of goodies?. You just have everything.... and Im glad you do.
From what Tri-power wrote I think he is right, a separate wiring going to the junction block. I do appreciate the help and this site.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
oldskydog are you talking about the Alzheimer's Idiot Manual .. I have both , I can't find where I put them, and they don't show any video's of how
to install anything. :crazy:doh:roll:laugh2
 

oldskydog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Section 12 Sheet 16 and 17
Clock wiring is part of a separate parking brake alarm, clock and backup lights harness for Bel Air and Impalas.
It plugs into the fuseblock, backup light switch, and the parking brake alrm switch and the light into the instrument cluster.
I suspect it was available on lower level models through the Dealer Accessories.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Im working my self through this and your help is much appreciated. I did go to the AIM book it does show it quite well.
 

CASHguzzler409

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Supporting Member 6
Things are heading in the right direction for a change, with my problem areas. Gas gauge, turn signals, dome light etc. I received a gift from one of the members on this site, he heard I needed a part, and said, he had plenty of them, so he sent it. Im now, proud to say its in and it works. I've said it before, but I"ll say it again, thanks to each of you for the support and help, I also look forward to getting online at 348/409 each day to see the progress and stories you are posting.
I did find out i was missing the white plastic sleeve that the spring rolls across, in the turn signal housing, and couldn't find one, so I went to Home Depot and bought a sleeve and made my own. Hope it works. Dome light was simple, but it did confuse me a little.I thought I needed a 93 bulb so I bought a bulb for the dome light, and when ready to install it, it took a fuse type bulb. I just figure it said in the book a certain type bulb, nope. It now works like it should, kind of makes me laugh at myself. I have to get a couple new 1034 bulbs for the front turn signals, parking lights, the left came on but the right did not light up, so in the process I broke the 1034 bulb getting it out, so it off to the store again, and I haven't hooked up the turn signal switch yet. Is there a special way to thread the
wire into the switch, I have it in there, but it does not move the switch arm, when using the turn signal handle. Do you bend the end of the wire cable? stan 000_0014.jpg000_0015.jpg000_0017.jpg000_0018.jpg000_0022.jpg000_0023.jpg100_2417.jpg000_0012.jpg100_2420.jpg
 
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CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Tripower, Great article about the turn switch, it really helped. Im sending two pictures of the switch for my 62, showing the correct way to install the wire. The first time, I tried to thread it in-between the rubber part and the top metal flap, all the wire would do is slip left & right, not holding onto the switch arm. The right way is to place the wire on top of the clip, that holds it tight, and will move the arm of the switch. Am sure most know this, but for those who are beginning to learn, this is an easy mistake.



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blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
I take it you have not driven your car yet???? Are you working on it your self now???where did every body go????:D
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
DonSSDD looking good. I made just a straight type sleeve that fit over the stud with no ledge or rim at the bottom?. After looking at your picture and looking at the pictures of the small plastic hat part, (spring roller) Im wondering if the bottom part of the hat or ledge is there to hold the spring wire from moving?, I think mine will hold the spring tight enough to it won't slip down?
Here's a couple of pictures, the bottom picture I added the washer to make a rim or hat looking part.000_0031.jpg



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CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
blkblk63ss, no sorry to say I have not driven the car since I got it almost 3 years ago. I don't believe its been on the road for over 20 year or more.
My partner Barry did all the body work, sheet metal panel replacements, and painted it, installed all the wiring, side windows, helped install the engine, carbs etc, without him I could not of done this car. He had been working on my 62 for over 20 months at his garage everyday, so it was time for it to come back to my garage and I could finish up . He's a great friend and partner and helps me whenever I get stuck. Another of my friends has a 66 pickup like yours, 283 - 4 spd granny tranny, he painted it a flat orange with white top, then he fixed up a 55 chevy 2 dr gasser type drag car, painted it the same orange. It does look cool going down the road with both old cars on the trailer. Here's a picture of the race car. Yesterday my friend Dennis the Menace had his 55 dyno tuned and came up with these numbers. 330 hp. to the rear wheels at 5800 rpm. He has a Demon carb and they found it needed more gas at the top so they changed the jets. It runs 12.2 - 12.6 hoping for 11.90 100_2365.jpg
 
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blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
Well.Cash once you drive it you will still find some bug's in the car,,,,,ask me how I know!!!! My differential has a slight whine (did not rebuild ) and some clutch chatter which was all new,so it does get aggravating thinking it should be perfect.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Its amazing how the same problems occur with all of us. When we restored our 1956 Conv. we did not rebuild the rear end, but it did last for many years
before starting to whine, its just that its so expensive to rebuild, that you fudge on some things. If things didn't happen where would we get all our stories..lol
Perfect is to hard to reach, but I know the feeling. thanks for the chat cash...
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Still working on the turn signal issues. I've read about all the post there are and like a lot of the post, I've went from one turn signal working, to not working, none working, dome light working when door opens, to being on all the time and can't shut it off, even when pushing in on the button on the doors. My headlights, parking lights, rear brake lights, rear lights work. I've check the power to the brake switch, the orange, is hot, when I put the brake on the white is hot.

At one time, I had the left turn signal working, front and rear. The right light would come on in the dash, but no light on right side front or back, or blinker.
I took the turn signal switch off, and opened it up and cleaned the inside diamond shape contacts, they were dirty and full of grease. I did check the turn signal harness and it was getting power to the top middle post and power to the bottom middle post. I've tried moving the bowden wire to where the switch is in all 3 places, and in each case I've had the turn signal handle in the neutral position. I've been reading about the Flasher, there is suppose to be two kinds, a 2 bulb, for the Bel Air etc. and a 3 bulb type for Impala's. Could this be a problem?. Im still wondering why the top fuse (3 amp fuse) in the fuse block doesn't light up the test light, either with or without the key on. My dash lights do work, and dim. with the light switch.
:drums
UPDATE... AFTER cleaning the Turn Signal Switch insides, its plenty easy to do, just unclip the four holding arms and be careful because when you open it up, there are 3 little diamond shaped contact parts, and underneath them are 3 very small springs, do not loose these. Make sure you take a picture or a drawing of how the diamond shaped contacts go on the plastic slider. You can put them on two different ways, but one way will not allow you to move the slide into the right position. I decided to NOT attach the Turn Signal Switch to the column, for test purposes, it makes it easier to attach the bowlden cable and wire through the clips.
I did put the switch in neutral position on both ends. A couple other things, the bulbs in the parking housing must be in and making contact, mine were on sometimes and off sometimes. Also taillights have to be making great contact to light the bulb on high bright. All these things add up to making it work.
I'd like to thank everyone who wrote a post it was the only way a rookie could have gotten the information to do this. Also Roger thanks, your input about having
the Bowde:happyn switch in the right position is really I think the key to how this all works. Yippie, I now have lights, I can move on to the Steering wheel attachment,:guitar
and then on to the next thing.
 
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CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
I have a question, I have my turn signals working, flashing etc. Is there suppose to be a clicking from the flasher switch, ? I hear no sound to let
you know your signaling. Might just have to have my eyes checked or turn up the volume on my hearing aid . :crazy
 

Jim Sullivan

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Supporting Member 10
Cash, my guess is the reason there is no sound is that it is probably an electronic style flasher and not the old mechanical type. I haven't purchased a flasher in years but would think someone should still make the mechanical style that makes noise? :dunno
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Now that is what I like about hanging around with my mature friends, they have so much knowledge. Now, not being electronic savvy, what would make one mechanical and the other electrical?. I just would have never thought about it being that. thanks Jim.:appl
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
The old style mechanical flashers have a bimetallic strip and a set of contact points. As current flows through the flasher the bi metallic strip heats up and then opens the contacts causing the lights to flash. The electronic ones probably use a little circuit board and transistors or something, I never had one apart so I not sure. Could also be that the newer flashers still have the bi metallic strip but are made to be quiet? I'll have to cut one open someday to see.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
If I get one of the others, mechanical, I'll take the electronic one apart and show some pictures.
u-da-man Jim.
 
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