327 Stroker Motor

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Hi everyone. I'm trying to gather us as many opinions as possible in re. to building a 327 stroker motor. I have what I think is a stock '68 327 that I would like to build into a stroker motor someday. I'm getting some mixed reviews as to not use this year motor because of large journals. Others say it is ok. Some say to make it a 4 bolt main block and it will be fine. I'm adamant about using this motor which I already have. I'm looking to get some decent HP out of it. It will be going into a '57 Chevy that I don't even own yet, but planning to acquire one, after I do some selling. I'm not going to constantly beat on it. Just want to have some fun with it. What do you guys think about this?? Anyone ever build a 327 stroke motor?? Thanks, Carmine.
 

floyd

Well Known Member
Its called a 383 stroker.2 or 4 bolt mains,both work.When building a stroker,the stock crank is not used.Correct parts are used.I have a 383 stroker out of a 1992 block.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Carmine,Your negative sources are full of BS! There's no difference between the blocks of a large journal 68 327 and the same year 350.On these two engines,only the stroke was changed to product the innocent. 85 or better percent of the 383 stroker motor combinations that have been built used this type of block.As to the 2 bolt,4 bolt contraversy,If you're building a motor to the 500 hp,7000 rpm level,yes convert it to 4 bolts.Below that,it's money wasted.If 383 cu.inches isn't enough,a 3.875 stroke and a 60 overbore and you've got 396 inches.There are even 4 inch stroker kits out there,but that kind of thing gets pricey to the point of impractical.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Well a 350 is a "stroker 327". Bigger is better, most of the time. For what you'll do with this engine/car you can build the 327 up pretty well and save some of that "stroker" money. A well built 327 is a pretty tough engine.
As far as 68 vs 69 blocks more BS from the internet know it alls.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
OK guys. Thanks for your responses. I guess it would be best to buy a complete stroker rotating assembly from a place like Summit. I see them offered for the 350 but not the 327. Would that be the same kit?? Camshaft; if the roller cam is far superior and beneficial as to my needs, then I would buy it. If not, then no, just a hydraulic one. I'm looking for some decent HP from this engine. Nothing crazy. Maybe the 375-400 HP range.
Heads; aluminum vs. Vortec vs. other cast iron heads. Not really sure. I'm probably going to tear this motor down soon and take it to the machine shop. Let him go over it and tell me if it's ok to build. I hope so. I have a terrible fondness for the 327. Thanks, Carmine.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
To make this 327 into a 383 stroker, wouldn't I need a .030 overbore and a 400 sbc crank?? I don't think a 350 crank will do it. Thanks, Carmine.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
You can get stroker kits from several places,Carmine.Skip white,Jegs,Summit,among them.The horse power level that you want can be achieved easily by using a flat tappet hyd cam,Vortec heads,a decent intake,a carb in the 600-650 range,and a decent exhaust.Yes,you'd use the same kit for your block as you would a 350 2 piece rear main seal block. The best piston to use here is of the "D" cup or reversed dome design.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
OK guys. Thank you. Now it's just getting around to doing it. As previously mentioned, I don't even have a car yet to put it in, but I will. I'm going to have this motor dynode for break-in and adjustment purposes when it comes time. I don't want to take it home and have it on an engine stand too long. I had my 409 dynode before bringing it home. So nice to hear it run and have everything adjusted perfectly. That way, when I install it and it won't start, I know it's my fault.
While on the same subject matter and I have your attention, what's everyone's/anyone's suggestions on the following. Your recommendations will give me a chance to look into the parts.
1-flat tappet hydraulic cam; what numbers would I be looking for? It's not a great necessity, but I would like enough vacuum for power brakes if need be. I don't have to have them, but it would be nice.
2-I know Vortec heads are mentioned and probably a great idea. But if not them, what aluminum head/numbers would I be looking at?? Or maybe another cast iron head?? I don't even know what heads are on it.
3-This motor was in my '62 when I got it. Someone put some bucks into it. It has roller tip rockers, an Edelbrock aluminum intake manifold, Edelbrock 650 cfm carb. with electric choke and a Mallory Unilite distributor. Hard to tell what is below the surface until I take it apart. I'm assuming I can use these parts on the stroker motor ??
4-Compression ratio?? I have 93 octane gas in my area.
5-This motor is going to be connected to an overdrive automatic transmission. With the overdrive, I'm thinking at least 3.70 or 4.11 gears. Maybe this will help you decide what might be best for me. Thank you very much, Carmine.
 
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1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
As I stated earlier a 327 is a great engine, you can easily build it to the horsepower you say however it may not be the best choice for you. A high horse 327 would most likely like a 4/5 speed manual trans with more rear end gearing because of it's high RPM while the 383 stroker would make more torque and not require the high RPM better suited for a stoutly built 700R4/4L60 trans. Especially since the car is probably fairly heavy. The higher torque of the 383 will give you better off line driving and overall comfort for just cruising. The 327 would also have much higher compression and that will create gas problems.
In either case a set of good heads is required. Forget the camel humps, some correctly sized AFR's would be great but expensive. Make certain to get the entire build planned out before buying parts, every thing needs to match up, heads, pistons (compression) cam and you need to know if auto or manual. If auto the torque convertor needs to be determined also. A wise and experienced engine builder will be your best friend here.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Carmine,If you build that 383 using flat top pistons,your compression will come in right at 11-1 when using a common comvbustion chamber size of 64 cc's.For comfortable cruising on 93 octane this will require an aluminum head.I would build it with a reverse dome piston with a volume of 12-14cc's inorder to keep the compression ratio down to around 10.5-1.As to the cam,a LUNATI Voodoo grind number 10120703lk or simular would be great.As Mike said,forget the old tech "double hump' or any of the other original early casting heads,go with a modern design head.Even the lowly Vortec[1996-2002] heads will beat those early heads by 35-40 horses,and at least 25-30 ft.lbs of torque.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
What car will you sell to replace with a 57?? Are you going for a 57 that is more or less finished and just pop your 327 prepped motor in It or a project car which need's paint interior ect???
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Thank you everyone for your continued suggestions and idea's. I really appreciate your sharing. I want to do this once and do it right. That's why I ask a lot of questions.

Don, yes, the future '57 I hope to purchase, has to be done and done correctly. Absolutely no project cars. I would pull the drive train so I know it's silly to want the original still in the car, but that is what I want. If the car is done up real nice, I could be flexible on this. I want the body and interior completely stock. No modifications. No cutting. No alterations. The car also has to be a 4d hardtop; no post. I really like that model a lot. I would also consider a similar '56 4d hardtop if it was the right one. There are several out there. More then I thought. Only limited by your desire, enthusiasm and money.
I originally had 7 cars. Sold 2 and gave 1 to my oldest son. I really do have to sell one-two cars for the space and I just can't keep up with everything. I'm pretty sure I would part with my '56 straight axle gasser. A few people have an interest in it. I have a C6 Corvette convertible that I bought brand new in '06. Has about 16,000 miles on it. Always garaged, covered and well kept. This year I put 47 miles on it. Pathetic, isn't it. If I was smart, which I'm not, I should probably sell this one also while it has a decent value. My '71 GTO, I like this car, but sometimes I feel like putting it out front with For Sale signs on it and see what happens. That leaves my old buddy, my '62 409. I'm keeping this car until death do us part. My kids can fight over this one, Carmine.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
If you want a finished 57 then it's very, very possible to get that with the engine to suit already done for you. I don't know why you have this keen interest in your 68 327, nothing real special about that and 327-350 blocks are pretty much the same and quite plentiful
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
The 327 is kind of sentimental value to me. It could be any year 327. Just happens that I have a '68 that came in my '62. lWhen I was a kid in the mid-late 60's, the 327 was the engine to have. Could never afford that engine. Was lucky to have a 283. My mother had a '62 Impala with a 327/250 and that car ran like a champ. Never lost a race but had to be careful what I went up against. Guess I can just relate to it, Carmine.
 

floyd

Well Known Member
Thats cool.The problem with any 327 horsepower,not a lot of torque.This is why alot of people upgrade to a 350 or 400.
 

k9hotrodder409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 15
Hi Carmine , I still have my stroker long block 327 from "JOINT VENTURE " It,s up for grabs . Just make me a decent offer and it's yours. It;s a 1967 327 block with a 283 crank and ,I think 11 to 1 pistons .I think it still has the racer brown Roller cam it it.I e-bayed the top end from it , it still has the crank , Aluminum 5.7 " rods , water pump ,roller timing chain and gears and assorted other goodies.If interested shoot me a pm I can't ship so you will have to come to my place to have a look and discuss a price I have had this thing since 1983It has app.30 mruns on it.I will try and post a pic .soon'
 
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