348 assembly
- Thread starter Hods1222
- Start date
..the toes or the work involved in getting it squared away..lol
That is entirely possible for sure. The ports on the upper plane feed directly into the head from the top on a straight shot. The manifold casting kinda welds a little funky but once you have it heated it welds pretty good. There are some tricky angles to get a TIG torch into but it is entirely doable. I wonder if a spoolgun setup would work as good. Here are some photos of the closure plates in place and welded..this time sans tingers..lol
Now to start cutting away everything I put in, this may be why ishiftem is having recurring nightmares. Ha ha.
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Happy labor day everyone. I was able to get some time in the shop today and was able to get the ports welded together and blended. It looks almost factory... also a pic of the 6-71 sitting on top. What have you guys seen done with the factory oil fill port? It seems like it is a tight fit as well as the thermostat housing. Maybe the plate for the blower will give some clearance for them.
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It’s looking good. When I built mine I just mocked up on my motor and built up until I had clearance for my thermostat housing and distributor in the back. I used a short oil fill tube as well so there wasn’t any problem with clearance. I used a swivel thermostat housing from summit. I also added a picture of what I did for my pop off valve.
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Well I have been able to get out to the shop for a couple days after work and was able to get some things done on the intake. Here are a couple pics of it. The 1/2 plate is tacked until I can get some decent beads in place but almost there. I need to get some porting burs and clean out the ports and such but I am happy with how it is turning out. I think I may run my pop-off out the front in the blank space below the plate.
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I have a question about the rockers. I picked up some BBC roller tip rockers that have 7/16 polylocks with them and 7/16 balls. I also got some 3/8 balls for the original rocker studs. It seems the 3/8 balls are too small in overall diameter for the rockers. What do folks do in this situation? Drill/tap for 7/16 studs? Do the 348/409s have bigger diameter ball with a 3/8 stud hole?
Buy new.
Clint
Well Known Member
I would use 7/16 screw in studs.. there will have to be some machine work done to the heads. You will have to have the stud bosses milled down.
Is that to account for the hex that is typically on them? If I run the ones without the hex is there a need to machine down the bosses?
I have my mill working so it isn't too much of a problem either way.
I ordered up some 7/16 rocker studs and with them in the mail I tried removing the original studs. First I did the washer and nut method and that didn't go over well. I ended up stripping the top portion of the stud.☹ I made a trip to the local bolt store and got a 3/4 fine thread bolt with corresponding nut. I chucked it up in the lathe and punched a letter Q size drill hole in the end. I then tapped it 3/8-24. I had a Torrington type bearing lying around so I used it with a spacer sleeve. A little elbow grease later and all the studs were out. Here is a pic of my makeshift puller.
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I was lucky to get some time in the shop to work on the heads. I was able to get the rocker stands milled down and threaded to accommodate the 7/16 threaded studs. Everything seems to have come out great. Here are a couple pics with it on the mill and with the studs threaded in. Does anyone have any recommendations on thread sealant/locker?
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Nice work 