I hear they are pretty docile until you put your foot in it, and very little or no drone. We shall see.
I like the fact they only flow 3cfm less than straight pipe.
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'58 Build
- Thread starter Dicey58
- Start date
I like the fact they only flow 3cfm less than straight pipe.
This was the first rear end I've assembled so I'm not sure what is to be expected, but I noticed the axles did not spin freely once they were installed. Third member spun just fine prior to axle installation, but now they are really hard to turn. Is this normal? Thanks.
Is that with the brakes on, or just turning the axles?
With a locker rear diff, it will be harder to turn because you are now turning the ring gear and the outer axle.
All the mechanical advantage in a rear end is the pinion turning the ring gear, not the other way around.
With a locker rear diff, it will be harder to turn because you are now turning the ring gear and the outer axle.
All the mechanical advantage in a rear end is the pinion turning the ring gear, not the other way around.
That is without the brakes.
Rear end porn, I'm getting turned on!!!
No oil, and all new, not trying to turn it at the pinion. I'll get it in the car and expect that it will need time to break in. Thank you for your responses, guys.
335/30R20 And I know, those 305mm rotors don't exactly fill that wheel...
I thought the 275/285 shoe I want was wide.335/30R20 And I know, those 305mm rotors don't exactly fill that wheel...
A 12" brake may not "fill" the wheel, but they're nothing to laugh at. With my Jag rear and in-board brakes, there won't be anything to see behind the wheel.
Yeah, 285 will be really tight I'm betting. I assume your exhaust will be exiting before the rear wheel? I couldn't resist back-halfing the frame...so friggin tight with the X. Jag rear, that's interesting. Nice independent suspension then?
285 isn't too bad for clearance. The shop where I had the work done took a 285/30'ishR18 off a customer's car and installed it on mine for a mock up. The Jag rear is only 1.5 inches wider to the backing plate (excluding rear drums) and the low profile made it much easier to put on than the 15 inch wheel I currently have. I will probably route the exhaust under the rear out the back. I've been told exhaust which dumps before the rear wheels is probably too loud to enjoy, especially if I really push 650+hp.
Here is a link to the work done on the rear:
http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/ragans-59-el-camino-rebuild-project.27910/#post-245589
Love that rear end set up! Did you have to upgrade internals and axles? 650 is going to test it if you hook, but you probably won't. I started with a 570/588 467 Mark IV, but my dad bought it off of me for his '47 Studebaker. I decided to go 467 with AFR 265s, 4 bolt conversion, forged internals, with a TorqStorm centrifugal blower, and from a TH400 to a 4L80E from Jake's Performance. Hoping to be in the 750 range with good driveability. Yeah, i know, going backwards on this build. Had to change to Aeromotive fuel, different ignition...boost referenced this...water/meth injection that...blah blah blah. Set me back financially about a year, but I just want to do it the way I want it...once. I don't want to regret not doing something, and only want to work on it if something breaks.
I will caution you on those 50s or any chambered. My brother in law has them on his 57 with 3" all the way out the back. Sounds great, but the drone...gets a little annoying. The 50s are definitely quieter though.
I always thought that the Flowmasters sounded like all the Mustangs running around town.
True. But when they are attached to a nice carbureted BBC with some good cam overlap, they sound damn good. Mustangs have the wrong firing order and no cam.
Yes, I've upgraded the internals to a 30 spline rebuilt PowerLok (supposed to be a very smooth rear), new 3.54 gears, and Mark Williams chro-moly hardened half shafts. The ring and pinion gears are Dana 44, so 8.5 inches in diameter. I have a day dream of upgrading the half shafts to carbon fiber (weight benefit), but the stock half shafts are drop forged steel and only 1.5 inches in diameter, lots of room for the coil overs on each side of the shaft and plenty strong. The u-joints are the same as Corvette and I have a new set waiting to go in. I may have to do something with the hubs at some point but having the trailing arms really helps absorb abuse from the long slender pedal.
My main goal is a comfortable cruiser where I can hook it and book it when I want.
The shop that did the fab work and put the rear in had put a Vette IRS in a 62 or 61 x-frame. He said the Jag was much easier to deal with than cutting down the bat wing and making brackets for it.