Sorry I forgot to mention that part when we talked Jason... It doesn't take much to get it in there... I cut some slots with the cutoff wheel, then bent it down and up with channel locks... Figured that way I could bend it back and weld the slots if I ever wanted too...I'll snap a pic of the clearance problem. But basically the yoke on the front of the driveshaft won't go through the front opening in the driveshaft tunnel. I don't have any good carbide burs at home so going to Fastenal today to get a couple to open up the hole some more. Tried a grinding stone and it just doesn't move material fast enough. A good quality bur should do the trick. I'll post a pic of the tool that I use to clean things up as well
Jason,Got some grinding done on the tunnel and the yoke fit through the hole. But seems the hole needs to opened up even more to give clearance for the driveshaft along the top. Ricky's method of cutting slots and pulling the top and bottom to open the hole is the way to go. Grinding is slow and tedious under the car. Not to mention the metal slivers!
I'm calling uncle here pretty soon on the project and revisiting it closer to spring. Feels too much like work!
Jason, my '62 assembly manual shows the 4 speed trans has the cross member mounted in the LOWER holes. Quite sure it would be the same on the '64 tranny. My drive shaft behind my Muncie is centered in the tunnel. Hate to see you butcher a frame if not necessary.Yea there are shims under the trans. I can try pulling those out and see what happens. I believe the crossmember is in the upper mounting holes
Thanks for this! Come spring I should have the rear end and IE driveshafts and would appreciate a reference for any issues!Getting the driveshaft to work in my car required trimming the front hole opening mostly on the top and sides and the trans in the lower bolt holes in the crossmember with no shims. In talking with Inland Empire it seems the cars with 1-piece frames have some more issues but they said they don't hear back from customers after the driveshafts ship out usually so they aren't aware of fitment issues for the most part. Its further compounded by using the 9" rearend I think. Centering the rearend housing between the quarter panels biases the pinion a bit to the passenger side. Its not perfectly centered with the tunnel. This causes some clearance issues with the fuel line tab that sticks out from the frame and the e-brake cables. Its really tight. I'm going to do a complete write up on getting the driveshaft to work once I have it done done in the car so others here know what they MIGHT be up against since some people haven't had to do near the work that I have had to to make this setup work.