Hope this helps you understand how and why they made it like this.
New build 62 Impala SS
- Thread starter CASHguzzler409
- Start date
The fitting on the intake will have the same end on the tube and will connect the same as on the modulator.
This picture is kinda fuzzy.
This picture is kinda fuzzy.
La Hot Rods, Great picture, the engine and tranny were together when I got it, but the lines were not hooked up. I did see on the front of the manifold a small connection, I was wondering what it was for. Always learning. Did a lot of scraping on the underside today, man does this car have some undercoating, has me wondering, why it rusted out from the rockers and braces on each side. Almost like they left all the windows down on each side, and the water ran down and filled the rockers and braces, then mixed with the dirt and dust, then the rust started, just on each side, the middle is solid.?
Today was driving day, the sandblaster called and had my 2 door, 2 fenders , hood, deck lid, rad sup.,
and cowl air piece done, 450.00. Its about 24 miles north, nice day for a ride, I just get home and the guy calls me and says your a-arm are ready to pick up, back on the road again, only about 10 miles this time. I told you about the story of they were suppose to be ready Sat. well they were ready a day early, thats good. When he told me the price I almost had a heart attack.
I took the bushings out, gave him the new bushings, he installed them, plus he installed the front hub bearings which I gave to him. $$ 374.
It just surprised me, at least now I can move on and finish. up getting the frame done. After all my
hrs of scraping the tar off the bottom, I'm thinking the cheapest and easiest way to do the floors and braces is to buy it in 1 piece, with the braces and inner rockers together, $999.00 + shipping.
and cowl air piece done, 450.00. Its about 24 miles north, nice day for a ride, I just get home and the guy calls me and says your a-arm are ready to pick up, back on the road again, only about 10 miles this time. I told you about the story of they were suppose to be ready Sat. well they were ready a day early, thats good. When he told me the price I almost had a heart attack.
I took the bushings out, gave him the new bushings, he installed them, plus he installed the front hub bearings which I gave to him. $$ 374.It just surprised me, at least now I can move on and finish. up getting the frame done. After all my
hrs of scraping the tar off the bottom, I'm thinking the cheapest and easiest way to do the floors and braces is to buy it in 1 piece, with the braces and inner rockers together, $999.00 + shipping.
Stan,
Be careful on the overseas made full floor pan. My experience is that the $ 1000 price range floor pan is from overseas and we did not what to chance an inferior product.
We used jig welded made in USA floor pan with all the braces from Cars Inc. on a 62 SS convertible -fit was excellent. You cannot tell it was installed now from the original floor pan(we painted it red oxide). My convertible is was right next to it with the original floor pan to compare after they were done in the body shop.
There is only a few hundred $ difference (as compared to the overseas one) and it fit really nice. Ours was just over $1200 + $ 145 truck shipping.
Paul
Pictures attached of the floor pan off the car and in the car and painted red oxide.
Be careful on the overseas made full floor pan. My experience is that the $ 1000 price range floor pan is from overseas and we did not what to chance an inferior product.
We used jig welded made in USA floor pan with all the braces from Cars Inc. on a 62 SS convertible -fit was excellent. You cannot tell it was installed now from the original floor pan(we painted it red oxide). My convertible is was right next to it with the original floor pan to compare after they were done in the body shop.
There is only a few hundred $ difference (as compared to the overseas one) and it fit really nice. Ours was just over $1200 + $ 145 truck shipping.
Paul
Pictures attached of the floor pan off the car and in the car and painted red oxide.
Thanks Paul, I've read you blog many times, am going to call you and pick you knowledge for the right place to start this project. I do appreciated all the help you given me and to others too.
A better picture of a intake fitting.
You will see that the vacuum metal line will fit inside this fitting and a vacuum hose will seal this connection.
You will see that the vacuum metal line will fit inside this fitting and a vacuum hose will seal this connection.
Thanks La Hot Rods. I like to see the pictures of parts. I have a friend trying to get me to buy his 4spd, he has all the parts to change it over, might just be cheaper to do that, 400.00. Am deep into floor pan remorse, its so bad I'll have to get a one piece pan with all the braces, to make it easier for me. I bought a welder today from Eastwood, if I can keep looking at just getting the ugly parts taken care of, it'll be ok. Thanks for your help on the tranny parts.
No problem.
Now you have a welder you need to clean and weld every piece of scrap you have together so you can get some practice in.
Now you have a welder you need to clean and weld every piece of scrap you have together so you can get some practice in.
Practicing on bad metal is a great idea...
Well I meant good scrap.
Hi Jim , was re-reading your build on replacing your floor pans rockers, great job would be an understatement. Im leaning to the 1 piece with brace's, I also have to do the box mounts and the rear body brace, and both rear fender wells, I guess everything else is great.
Any idea's on the fender wells, are there pieces you can buy just for that area?. thanks for the help. cash
Any idea's on the fender wells, are there pieces you can buy just for that area?. thanks for the help. cash
I looked with all the reprod company's and could not find patches.I just needed the lip that the quarter is spot welded to (luckily,because the convertibles are diff from the hard tops). wound up buying the whole wheelhouse,cutting out what I needed and welding it in.If you need the wheelhouse you probably need the rear box brace cover that is welded to the wheelhouse,and the rocker to wheelhouse cover as wheel.Awesome job with your resto,keep the pics coming.
I spent way too much time making new outer wheel house lips for my 63. It would have been alot easier buying them and using what I needed like R63ss did.
That is what i did on one side that was really ate up full length and up about 2 to 3 inches, i just ordered new wheel house and cut what i needed to weld back in place. The other side needed very little ,so i made the flange and installed a section at about 6 inch length at a time as to not lose the original placement position of flange. I have a shrinker stretcher so it was fairly easy to make.
While shopping on the internet I found a repo company that sells sheet metal and they have the wheel well replacement panels. My question is when replacing the floor with my new original one, with all the braces and rockers attached, will I have to separate the rockers at the front and back of the door, and will I have to continue on and open up the quarter to the wheel well panel to install the complete floor with rockers. I've watched
many video's as to where I should remove the spot welds, across the cowl, across the back
seat, my rockers on the car are rotted beyond repair, but the new ones are very good. Any advice of how to weld the floor back together would be a great help, as I am as green as grass, and its my 1st time welding. thanks cash.
many video's as to where I should remove the spot welds, across the cowl, across the back
seat, my rockers on the car are rotted beyond repair, but the new ones are very good. Any advice of how to weld the floor back together would be a great help, as I am as green as grass, and its my 1st time welding. thanks cash.
Nice score on the original floor,braces,and rockers.I would recommend using 1" box stock to build bracing to keep everything square when you cut out the rockers and floors.The rockers tie everything together and things can move without them.This photo shows how I did it on the 63
As far as welding the new ones in,it is helpful to have the doors on to insure your gaps line up.Use self tapping screws at all the old spot weld locations.This will keep everything tight.Then remove a screw and plug weld the old spot weld.Eastwood sells a attachment that will go the tip of your welder that mimics a spotweld.Alternate sides and front to back so things don't get to hot.Use .024 wire so it takes less heat to melt the mig wire,this will help with metal distortion as well.I would definitely recommend cutting the old out with a plasma cutter.You still have to stay off your seams an inch or so,but at least you can section up the old pieces and make it easier getting to the spot welds at the seams.Once you use one you will never go back to a cutting wheel.
As far as welding the new ones in,it is helpful to have the doors on to insure your gaps line up.Use self tapping screws at all the old spot weld locations.This will keep everything tight.Then remove a screw and plug weld the old spot weld.Eastwood sells a attachment that will go the tip of your welder that mimics a spotweld.Alternate sides and front to back so things don't get to hot.Use .024 wire so it takes less heat to melt the mig wire,this will help with metal distortion as well.I would definitely recommend cutting the old out with a plasma cutter.You still have to stay off your seams an inch or so,but at least you can section up the old pieces and make it easier getting to the spot welds at the seams.Once you use one you will never go back to a cutting wheel.
Great help R63ss, its just these type pictures and help that are so helpful. I started again
yesterday cutting out the front floor pans, I get kind of down when I keep looking at the mangled up mess of rusty braces etc. I did buy a air cutting tool, its ok, and I do have
a 4" disc grinder, but today Im heading over to a friends, he has a plasma cutter and said
I could borrow it. Now that will make it much easier. Now if I could just get the magic
fairy to come over and remove all the spot welds, I'd be in heaven. thanks for the help.
yesterday cutting out the front floor pans, I get kind of down when I keep looking at the mangled up mess of rusty braces etc. I did buy a air cutting tool, its ok, and I do have
a 4" disc grinder, but today Im heading over to a friends, he has a plasma cutter and said
I could borrow it. Now that will make it much easier. Now if I could just get the magic
fairy to come over and remove all the spot welds, I'd be in heaven. thanks for the help.
Attachments
Why use a plasma cutter when you have a good hatchet?