You can get to it with engine off then open throttle to gain access. May take a few tries to get it set proper but this is only adjusted during the choke operations once the choke has completely opened.
Passion Polly: 61 in Erath County Texas
- Thread starter Shaark92
- Start date
Just read this complete post. Great story, Pop's has to be smiling. Noticed the Blue-Print engine. Toured their facility this past summer. An amazing place. I have known Norris the owner for probably 40 years. Also ran into another old friend at a local establishment! Still had an unopened bottle on the bottom shelf. $10 took it home with me. Still had the federal tax stamp intact. The tax stamp was dropped in 1985. Just noticed when I clicked on the pic. That is Dad behind the bar. The place was called Dad's Tavern. Dad & his wife were I believe 91 & 90 last year and they work the bar every day!
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Shaark92
Well Known Member
AH! Great dope! Thanks La Hot Rods!!!!
Shaark92
Well Known Member
Thanks Murphdog! Thanks for sharing about Blueprint. yes it seems to be a very strong engine. one of the first things I noticed was the amount of air exiting my cherry bomb exhaust even at idle. "Sahn!"
I sure wish I'd been more involved in the battery charger connection part. I was letting my resto shop owner drive the fight because she was still in his care, but he was over his noggin in that place at that time. If I'd been more directive, the over voltage of the entire electrical system wouldn't have happened, the Sniper would still be on the BP383 and Polly would have a few thousand miles on her by now. But I can't help but think there was a purpose in all this shop time.
Shaark92
Well Known Member
@La Hot Rods ... got out there and tinkered some. Was able to get it up to NOT after a brief cruise. Then into the shop and rolled-back the fast idle screw using your technique. That released the throttle to where it'd make contact with the main idle screw. however, I discovered the spring tension isn't pulling it to the idle set. I can put it to the set, but as soon as I actuate the throttle and release, it pauses at that gap and holds 1000 ish RPM.
so, I'll study on this a bit more, but making progress. Thanks again for your tip!
so, I'll study on this a bit more, but making progress. Thanks again for your tip!
Your choke flapper must be completely open when hot,it will set a fast idle not releaseing.
Shaark92
Well Known Member
good point. thank you. I think, though, my larger problem is the throttle assembly's failing to reach the idle stop. the fast idle IS being tripped when the temp is warm.
https://youtu.be/WpUyyc_pqHk
Can you move choke flap to open more. Also when engine is hot and driving in cold weather does it tend to close choke somewhat. That mean's the hear source is not sufficient .Also rear butterflys if stuck open a little will create fast idle . Make sure that they are are able to close fully.
Shaark92
Well Known Member
no, the choke was wide open after my 20 minute run ... it's electric, so I suppose it'd open with about 5 minutes of switch ON??
I didnt' really inspect the secondaries except when I noted the larger spring was actually making contact with the secondary rod. Secondaries are probably shut as I have the fast idle until I pull the throttle back against the idle set screw. it holds there, but it won't return there with just the return springs. Looks like a really short arm on the bottom of the axle. I might have better performance pulling forward on the top of the arm rather than pulling aft on the short bottom ... though aesthetically as it's configured is better.
Diconnect vacuum for pcv and plug carb port and see if it idles down a lot.
It will have better leverage spring pulling from front on long top arm of linkage. That's the way they were as new . You can get chrome throttle arm to bolt to front intake bolt and then get proper spring.
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Does that carb have a fast idle cam that you can move to come off fast idle screw?? I am not familiar with those avs .
Shaark92
Well Known Member
yessir, there's a fast idle set screw. LA hot Rod educated me on it.
though it wasn't "active" when I adjusted it (cause the choke was open), I backed it out a bit anyway. I'm not a fan of a real fast idle when the oil is cold.
I remember the original 283 with the QJet Dad put on it ... the throttle return spring was attached to an accessory mount hole on the front of the head. Wasn't "pretty" but it worked.
Some factory had a tab on side of oil Fill tube . Spring to that tab.
Shaark92
Well Known Member
oh, that's not on Polly, but I remember the oil fill tube you mention. Had the breather tube which ran down the back of the engine, too ... no PCV valve. when she still had the original 4 barrel Rochester ... before we installed teh QJet. That was back in 85. We also pulled the power pack heads to rehone 'em but one of 'em couldn't be true'd ... so found some 327 heads w/ the big intake valves. That 283 would motivate Polly pretty well.
Now she has a new 383Stroker from Blueprint Engines.
Shaark92
Well Known Member
I have the March Performance accessory drive with the GM Type 2 PS pump ... remote reservoir. connected by braided hose and AN fittings.
I have multiple leaks.
I purchased Earls conical seals and Summit AN wrenches, but just curious if anyone here has had any experience with this before I dive off into this deal.
I think one/more of the connections at the hydroboost is dribbling. the last picture being the floor where Polly parks. I have run her for about a week, two tanks of fuel, so I'm wondering if this isn't a static leak. As much as I've run her in 7 days, I'd think I'd need to service the reservoir if it was a pressure leak.
So ... if a static leak, would this be more of a problem in the building of the connection (the fitting onto the hose) vice between the conical fittings?
Is the large hose (AN10) the supply to the pump? I'm thinking it just about has to be.
I get a significant pump whine when the fluid temp isn't cold. probably air entering from the supply? Is that probably a sealing issue between the reservoir and the pump? the rigid reservoir seems to be pressurized so IDK ... perhaps air is getting into the reservoir from the pressure side?
I've never dealt with this kinda of system. The brakes are outstanding and the rack/pinion is smooth/sure, but that pump whine and leak need attention.
Running Lucas with conditioners as the fluid.
Thanks!
I have multiple leaks.
I purchased Earls conical seals and Summit AN wrenches, but just curious if anyone here has had any experience with this before I dive off into this deal.
I think one/more of the connections at the hydroboost is dribbling. the last picture being the floor where Polly parks. I have run her for about a week, two tanks of fuel, so I'm wondering if this isn't a static leak. As much as I've run her in 7 days, I'd think I'd need to service the reservoir if it was a pressure leak.
So ... if a static leak, would this be more of a problem in the building of the connection (the fitting onto the hose) vice between the conical fittings?
Is the large hose (AN10) the supply to the pump? I'm thinking it just about has to be.
I get a significant pump whine when the fluid temp isn't cold. probably air entering from the supply? Is that probably a sealing issue between the reservoir and the pump? the rigid reservoir seems to be pressurized so IDK ... perhaps air is getting into the reservoir from the pressure side?
I've never dealt with this kinda of system. The brakes are outstanding and the rack/pinion is smooth/sure, but that pump whine and leak need attention.
Running Lucas with conditioners as the fluid.
Thanks!
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Shaark92
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I've started resetting "zero" on air in the system. i've done this sequence now about 5 times, recorded the 3rd one since I couldn't see the level until it reached the top of the reservoir. Evidently, this can take a long time to get all the air out. lifted the front wheels off the ground to make "no resistance" ... just moving the fluid through the system in hopes of bringing all the air to the top of the reservoir.
I'm a bit concerned with all that "metallic flake" ... but then wonder, too ... perhaps just go with it and be prepared to replace the pump, flush the lines when I do that.
I didn't know the quantity level would change so radically just shuttling the rack/pinion back/forth. Is it supposed to do that?
https://youtu.be/2V3FGMHRX2U
I'm a bit concerned with all that "metallic flake" ... but then wonder, too ... perhaps just go with it and be prepared to replace the pump, flush the lines when I do that.
I didn't know the quantity level would change so radically just shuttling the rack/pinion back/forth. Is it supposed to do that?
https://youtu.be/2V3FGMHRX2U
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Shaark92
Well Known Member
thanks Don ... yeah, there are at least 4 of the AN fittings dribbling, one of 'em at the hydroboost. Working two projects today and Polly was the B project today. she'll move to A tomorrow. see what I can do about the dribbling while I continue to bleed. Shouldn't be any "burbles" in the reservoir when cycling the system with the engine off, confirm?