Signal lights

Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Hi everyone. I'm not sure I previously mentioned it, but the signal light lever and internals have always been sloppy, and they got even sloppier if that is possible. They would work about half the time if you played with the lever. They progressed to the point where presently they don't work at all. Took the steering wheel off today and took a peek. There is a screw holding a shifting plate down and that was loose so I tightened it. I tried the lights; still negative. I looked in my repair and assembly manual for a schematic but couldn't find any. I kept looking at the internals and saw the tiniest cable I have ever seen. Saw that there was a loop at the end which went to nothing. Looked further and saw an arm that I thought this cable was suppose to be attached to, had slid off. Reattached it and one side of the signal lights began working. Continued fooling with it and then the other side would work. Went back to the passenger side and nothing. You really had to move the lever gently to get anything to work. Even then it was no guarantee. Sometimes nothing worked at all. I ordered a repair kit with a new shifting plate that I need. Seems that there is a pin that pivots in a hole on the plate that is partially wore out. There is also a small nylon bushing that I don't think fits correctly either. I will install the new kit when it arrives. Not sure why, but I think part of my problem is in the lower switch that is controlled by that tiny cable and the shifting plate. Tomorrow, I'm going to take the one cable end off as I found it. I'm going to regulate the cable with needle nose pliers and see if I can get the lights to work independent of anything else. Everything appears to be mechanical; no wires that I could see, so this should be a good test. I can buy the lower switch if need be and a new cable. Just wondering if anyone has every replaced the lower switch and cable before?? Thanks, Carmine.
 
Carmine

Carmine

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Supporting Member 10
I couldn't wait for tomorrow. Just left the garage after testing the lower switch. Unattached the cable connected to the switch and moved it up and down using small pliers. The results were all over the charts. What ever movement there was, it had to be very delicate. Sometimes the passenger side front and rear signal lights would work with the green arrow, then no arrow and just the front signal light. Pretty much the same for the other side. You could never get it to work if you went from right to left without hesitating. Sometimes nothing would work. Depending on the movement of the cable. Nothing was consistent. Seems to me that if this was hooked up and working properly, you would have a lot of latitude for the lights to engage properly. Just not happening here. I'm going to give it some more thought, but I think I will order a new lower switch. This switch could very well be the original and is just plain wore out. Seems what ever is inside of it, can't coordinate where the current should be flowing. I don't think these are adjustable and I wouldn't even try and figure that out, Carmine.
 
Iowa 409 Guy

Iowa 409 Guy

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
I'd just leave as is and let the folks behind you cuss you for being a geezer or texting....... Keep em guessing.... I guess...:winner
 
jdk971

jdk971

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
could use arm signals, but i do not think people today would know them. you would only get the universal one back. jim
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Jim Sullivan said:
Carmine, Cashguzzler409 went through problems with his turn signal switch also. Here is a link to his build thread http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/1962-bel-air-bubble-top-409-project.26367/page-18 . You may want to contact him for additional information. Good luck!
Click to expand...

That was a good thread. It lead over to even more info at CT. I'm going to have to read them several times to get a good understanding. One thing I was wondering about, and it was mentioned, that the change and or adjustment can be done without dropping the steering column, but it would be easier if it was lowered. I just had this column down. I would drop it again if need be, but really prefer not to. Wondering which way to go with this?? Boy, I wish I hadn't put that bucket seat back in. Thanks Jim, Carmine.
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Just ordered a new switch and cable. From looking at some threads and pics, it seems like once you find the neutral area on the switch, cable is hooked at both ends, you would gently move the entire switch on the column itself, to make the fine adjustment. Would this be correct? The bracket that the switch is attached to, has 2 oblong slots and would that purpose be so it could slide on the steering column to aid in making the adjustment?? My parts won't be here until Wednesday, so I'm going to fool with the original switch and cable. I see where it's mounted on the column. I've seen more difficult things to get to, Carmine.
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Just came in from the garage after fooling with this signal switch a bit more. The one small bolt on the left side, you can easily get to. The other one on top but slightly to the left, I struggled with. Actually, I couldn't get it the way it was. Even if I did, there was no way I could ever get it back in. Who ever suggested to drop the steering column, that was an excellent idea. I already had it down a few times previously, so no problem. So, once lowered, there was the switch and bolt. Loosened it just enough so it would slide with some resistance. Next, I tried out my theory of moving the switch itself to make things work. Initially, it wasn't too good. One side would work and the other side wouldn't. Then only the rear signal lights and no front. By sliding this switch however slightly, it really affected the outcome. Sometimes the green turn signal arrow came on. Some times not. It was very sensitive. Kind of like some ladies I knew at one time LOL. So, I continued trying to adjust it and here is what I found out. For both the front and rear signal lights to work, the green turning arrow also has to work. Without that blinking, you're only going to power the front or rear; not both. You can hear the faint sound of the flasher and when you check your lights, no green arrow and only the front or rear. Pretty much the rear every time. Move the switch just a hair and now you hear a deep noise coming from the flasher, the green arrow light is blinking and both front and rear signal lights are working. Now I had to keep moving the switch slightly until I got one side working perfectly, then check the other side and hopefully that would also be good. That didn't happen right away. Guess I just kept fooling with it until I stumbled on the exact position. I was so happy about it, I turned out the lights and walked away. I'll gently tighten it tomorrow and see if it held position. Assuming it does, now I have a decision to make because I ordered the new parts. I want the parts. I won't send them back. Not sure I'll use them. Definitely not going to replace the cable. As for the switch, I'm a big proponent of nothing fits and works like the original. I know the switch has to be Chinese and that scares me. Think I'll take a wait and see approach to things. If the original switch works well, then I'll leave it. Now that I know how things come apart, no problem if I have to change it out. When you think about it, it really is quite interesting the way they designed the mechanical part of the turn signals. I would have never thought that the proper adjustment of a tiny cable, would be so important, Carmine.
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
blkblk63ss said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1959-62-CHEVROLET-IMPALA-LOWER-STERRING-
Click to expand...

Looked at that part. Nothing like have a GM original part.

Went out to the garage yesterday and tried the signal lights. They had worked when I left them, but this time they refused again. Tried to make adjustment by sliding the switch on the steering column. Sometimes it worked. Sometimes not. Removed the switch and tried to find the neutral position according to one of the schematics on line. Guess I was close, but no cigar. I fumbled with this adjustment for probably the better part of 1/2 hour. Then Eureka. I found it. All the signal lights and indicators worked as they should. I gently tightened the cable and attached the switch to the column. Tried the switch again. Yes, it worked. Put the rest of it back together and at every step, I continued trying the switch which worked fine. I'm awaiting the repair kit which should be here this Wed. and I'll finish it off. Hopefully, we'll be good to go.

La Hot Rods, I thought the same thing when I first looked at how the turn signal worked. It seemed like GM went way out of their way to complicate things. A turn signal operated by a weird looking lever and cable, ridiculous I thought. Then, I thought about my trifives and the turn signal parts I replaced in each which included the switch with all those wires that had to be threaded up the column with very little room. Trying to bend them so they wouldn't interfere with anything. Actually, I some how cracked the casing on one of them and it grounded out, melting that particular wire. Did it while driving. Filled up the driver compartment with smoke. Scared the heck out of me. Anyhow, having some experience with both, I'll take the '62 design over the trifives design. Overall, easier to work on, at least for me, Carmine.
 
roger gunter

roger gunter

 
Supporting Member 1
carmine
sure some one will correct me, but on my old 61 , I had the same problem
had everything working fine, going to a car show, and a friend of mine behind that was behind me, told me the signals weren't working
I tried everything just like you, until I found out that little cable is called a Bowden cable
I looked it up and seems like I found out the steps to adjust it in the 61 manual?
not sure but I adjusted it like they said, and everything started working the way it was designed to
this has been close to 10 years ago, and I slept since then so not real sure about my advice
seems like you had to turn on the left blinker and slide the cable over the pin on the switch, then adjust the switch very gently until the flasher started working.
after doing this , check the right side and it should work properly
like I said, I have slept since then and have had 4 other cars since the 61
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Thanks Roger. I must have gotten lucky and stumbled on finding the exact spot on the switch. As of yesterday, everything was working. But today is a new day, so I'll be checking it shortly. I previously looked in my '61 repair manual and didn't see anything about adjusting the cable. I'm going to look again because now I know it's there. Without much fuss, would you happen to know the page number?? Thanks, Carmine.
 
1961 Bubble Boy

1961 Bubble Boy

Well Known Member
Turn to page 9-64. It explains the switch is self adjusting. Page 9-66 explains how to check and properly install the switch and set the cable.
 
roger gunter

roger gunter

 
Supporting Member 1
carmine
since bubble boy answered your question, then I am not going to dig through the books
hope this helps
 
Carmine

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
My signal light repair kit arrived yesterday. I took a look at what I call the shifting lever plate because I thought the old one showed signs of wear or being broken. The one pivotal point in question was identical to the old one. Nothing broken or worn when compared. Since I subscribe to, nothing fits like the original part, I think I'll leave the old one in for now. Not sure anything would be gained by changing. I might use the new white nylon type washer though. It seems to be a bit bigger and might hold things a little tighter.

Also received the new signal light switch and cable. The cable looks identical to the old one. The switch, well, it doesn't look quite as solid as the original. Hoping it might work if I need it. Going to leave the old parts for now as long as they continue to work. Guess I should be grateful that some replacement parts are available, Carmine.
 
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