intake oil splash shield

poison ivy

Well Known Member
have you had or seen a powder coated intake, have you had or seen anything your guy has done? peep before you leap!
 

Skip FIx

Well Known Member
I would maybe just do one of the heat barrier coatings(like pistons) or teflon coatings(like oil pans/windage trays) on it to repel oil. I'd worry powder coating might flake off.
 

jwhotrod

 
Supporting Member 1
Yes, I am using the Wagner PVC valve in my setup. Its a long story but the last time I had the engine on the dyno for testing they removed the PCV valve because it was sucking oil up into the manifold and thought I didn't need it. So after awhile I started using oil in a fairly fresh motor (under 10k) and fouling #6&8 plugs. So we went looking for the cause, compression test said all 8 cylinders were within 1# of each other around 150psi, and the valve seals were good. So I have a video inspection camera and low and behold it was sucking oil out of the valley into the 6&8 intake runners at the intake gasket. It didn't help that there was no sealer on the gaskets, even though they were designed for same. We think between excess pressure in the valley + bad seal at the gasket caused the problem. I also had an oil leak along the front china wall. I don't fault the dyno guy because we were testing to make sure I had gotten rid of an oil retention problem I had with Moon valve covers. It would pump the pan dry in about 15min of running because the valve covers were not vented. So I added breathers to the valve covers and solved that problem but as I said in the testing they felt the breathers were enough and removed the PCV valve. So it would appear that was incorrect to assume it was not needed. Now, the other half of that is that the baffle under the PCV valve was contributing to the problem as well. It was small and very close to the bottom of the valve so if oil pooled there was nothing to keep it from sucking into the valve. It also seems that not just any old PCV valve will work in our applications. Who would of thunk it? Good luck I hope the info helps.
 

Hoyt99

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
my 409 intake splash shield was hit by flying engine parts, has a big rip in it so I’m going to have to replace it.

I can get it off by grinding the rivet heads, right? How do I get fhe new rivets to compress and tighten into actual working rivet heads?

Do you suppose the auto parts store machine shop can just remove and replace the shield and “re-rivet it? This is the easy way, right?

What’s the best and safest way.

thanks

Chip
63 425hp
 

Hoyt99

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I’m probably missing something really obvious- how do you secure the replacement splash pan? How do you make the new rivets tight?
 

Hoyt99

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Mine isn’t separated yet, but if I understand correctly, the blind side of the rivets are supported in place by the manifold, so you can complete the process and kinda just pound them closed? Like you’d do with any rivet, right?
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
It's just a resistance fit. The rivets don't change shape, the hole in the manifold will.
I try to rotate the rivet so it has some new meat in the hole.
 

Murphdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
When I did this years ago I would use the ball end of a small ball peen hammer, position it right next to the hole in the intake and whack it with another hammer, peening the hole closed slightly. Was normally able to use the old rivets over.
Jeff
 

Hoyt99

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
okay - so the rivets go directly into holes in the intake manifold h- that’s the “something obvious “ that I am missing. I had thought the rivets went through a tab on the blind side with the necessity of closing them on the outside.
 
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