"The" Homewrecker

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Just finished porting my 690's. I didn't get nuts with them, just reshaped the guides, polished the exhaust ports, widened the "pinch" area about .070 and a few other details. Had some custom intake valves made. Gonna put them on a flow bench as soon as the valve job is done. I'll post results.
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Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I hope so! Going to the machine shop now to lean on them. I have an event I am supposed to be at the weekend before Thompson.
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I now have everything back from the machine shop. Put the cam bearings and freeze/oil plugs in. Also spent about 4 hrs grinding on the Edelbrock intake. I seriously can't believe they let them out the door the way they are. I was so ticked off I ground there name off it. Bad enough I bought it but I'll be damned if I'll advertise for them.
 

Iowa 409 Guy

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Its a 10.5 Mcleod. Last year we had it at 1,045 base pressure with 11.5 grams of counter weight on each lever. I like it a little tighter to keep maintenance low.

Hi Dan
Thanks for the advice the other day. I think you're running a sintered iron clutch disc? Would a guy need to set his pressure plate up much different for a bronze paddle disc? BTW, how would something set up that way drive on the street with the bronze set up?
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Curious, what was so bad?
First off the ports were very small compared to a felpro gasket. A little smaller is to be expected but I found it excessive. I had to work the ports up into the intake as far as a 6" burr would get me to eliminate a large and sudden change in cross sectional area. Next was some rough casting in a couple of the ports. Especially where the #7 port crosses over what I remember as the #8 port. There was a large x huge lump that really closed off the port. Next was a boss that had to be ground down to clear the vacuum advance canister using a stock 348 distributor. Next the boss that the hold down clamp screws to also had to be ground down because the clamp would bottom on the boss before it clamped the distributor down. Next the hole for the distributor is offset. There was just barely enough contact area on one side to seal the gasket. Maybe I am picky but I was expecting a more refined piece for $400. Unfortunately the only other options cost well over $1,000 so I made due. It still beats the factory 881.
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Hi Dan
Thanks for the advice the other day. I think you're running a sintered iron clutch disc? Would a guy need to set his pressure plate up much different for a bronze paddle disc? BTW, how would something set up that way drive on the street with the bronze set up?
Dave, Dave, Dave. Are you gonna make me write all this out at midnight?:bat Just kidding:). We are using a 5135 iron disc. It is very aggressive. The bronze discs are less aggressive than the 5135 iron or 5145 iron. That being said, I have never ran a bronze disc. I will tell you what I know about the iron and then give my opinion on the bronze. An adjustable pressure plate and iron disc can be run on the street but they require work and will also have a shorter life span. They do not like to be slipped. It is a in or out sort of thing. The beauty of an adjustable pressure plate and iron (or bronze) disc is that at the track they can be tuned to slip a little. A small amount of slippage keeps the engine from bogging down, helps keep from shocking the tire loose, and KEEPS THE CAR FROM SCATTERING DRIVELINE PIECES ALL OVER HELL! This slippage though ideal at the track will quickly cause the clutch to glaze and warp on the street. The only way to combat this is to use two different pressures. Lower at the track and cranked all the way up on the street. I believe you said your pressure plat was adjustable so you should have a hole drilled in the scattershield next to the trans so you can access the adjusters. I have the balancer marked so I can line up the adjuster with the hole. Limits the amount of times I have to crawl out from under the car. Otherwise I hope you like doing squat thrusts:roll. That being said the bronze should be able to be used on the street. Just know that you will need 2 different tunes. One for the track and one for the street. And do not slip it on the street. Let it engage as fast as possible. One you slip one of these things good whether it be at the track or on the street, they glaze quickly and will need to be resurfaced. Make sure when you have the slicks on that the slicks turn 1 to 3 turns on the launch. Remember something has to give and you don"t want it to be the driveline. Hope I didn't scare you!
 

Iowa 409 Guy

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Thanks for the advice Dan. Not too worried about breaking stuff, if you don't break something once in a while, you ain't pushing her hard enuf. Hope all the work you're doing on your car works out for you. See you both at Tri-State in August.
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
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I have a complete car again!:dance It was a lot of work this winter and spring but it was worth it. Cranked a couple times hit the hot button and she roared to life. Runs great for the 30 minutes running it in the garage:beer We will see what happens when we put thee screws to her on Saturday. Always nervous going out for the first time after having half the car apart!
 

de31168

Well Known Member
Sweet! Good luck saturday. Can't wait to hear the full test report! I'll throw in my prediction of a 10.75 right off the trailer.
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Thanks everybody! I will post what happens along with video! That is of course unless something goes wrong at which time I will make up some lame excuse like I had to go to Aunt Tillies birthday party and never went to the track :cool:
 
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