Adjustable upper control arms

[Steve "wully bully"]

Rear Suspension Set-up

To all,
On Wully Bully, we lowered the front lower mounts, so that the lower arms are essentially level. We also have upper frame brackets that have multiple holes. On the rear-end housing, we have stock location holes, and holes further up. All of these locations we have plotted into a great computer program I bought, which plots out the instant center. We ran Wully Bully for years, with very poor consistency on 60' times before we knew about and bought this program. After learning what we did wrong, we re-engineered the suspension as described above, and now produce consistent 60' times of 1.40-1.42, on 10.5" tires. I have used this same program to offer advice to Carl's set-up on Wully Bully II, which does 60' times of 1.29-1.32, and also Ray (Dynoray) and Aubrey. I will be glad to offer any insight to others, but it takes me time to do it. As far as pinion angle, exactly as Fatride said, you only want enough to equal the movement (twisting) of the rear on launch, so that it equals 0 degrees. We run more in Wully Bully than in Wully Bully II, because II has a more modern four link, that allows less twisting of the rear housing.

 

[CDNpontiac409guy]

Steve , Carl... I should have gave you guys the credit for that info
It DOES work

 

[Garbageman]

Thanks for the information Steve. How much (-) pinion angle do you run on your car? I am not sure how to determine the correct at rest pinion angle. I've been told to start with -2 degrees and go from there.

Paul

 

[chevytaylor]

To all,
On Wully Bully, we lowered the front lower mounts, so that the lower arms are essentially level. We also have upper frame brackets that have multiple holes. On the rear-end housing, we have stock location holes, and holes further up. All of these locations we have plotted into a great computer program I bought, which plots out the instant center. We ran Wully Bully for years, with very poor consistency on 60' times before we knew about and bought this program. After learning what we did wrong, we re-engineered the suspension as described above, and now produce consistent 60' times of 1.40-1.42, on 10.5" tires. I have used this same program to offer advice to Carl's set-up on Wully Bully II, which does 60' times of 1.29-1.32, and also Ray (Dynoray) and Aubrey. I will be glad to offer any insight to others, but it takes me time to do it. As far as pinion angle, exactly as Fatride said, you only want enough to equal the movement (twisting) of the rear on launch, so that it equals 0 degrees. We run more in Wully Bully than in Wully Bully II, because II has a more modern four link, that allows less twisting of the rear housing.

Steve, thank you for sharing this invaluable information. Your cars are awesome. bang

Carl.

 

[Steve "wully bully"]

Pinion angle

Paul,
We run -7 degrees on the sedan (Wully Bully), but that is measured as the difference between the driveshaft and the pinion. The driveshaft is about 3 degrees, and the pinion is around -4, so it gives a total of -7. I would have to recheck for exact measurements, so these are the best I remember. You want to have the car at 'race-ready' condition, tires at launch psi, weight of the driver in the seat, front-end at launch height, etc., as all these things will affect the angle. Then you have to squeeze under to measure.
Steven

 

[Garbageman]

Steven, thank you for the information. I agree with Chevytaylor you guys rockbang

Paul

 

[models916]

Steve?

Is that for a 1-piece drive shaft?

 

[Fathead Racing]

Is that for a 1-piece drive shaft?

I think in relation to the drive shaft the 4 dgs is what you want with either the two piece or the one piece driveshaft. By the way, 4 dgs is the stock setting for the 60 Chevy.

 

[Fathead Racing]

To all,
On Wully Bully, we lowered the front lower mounts, so that the lower arms are essentially level. We also have upper frame brackets that have multiple holes. On the rear-end housing, we have stock location holes, and holes further up. All of these locations we have plotted into a great computer program I bought, which plots out the instant center. We ran Wully Bully for years, with very poor consistency on 60' times before we knew about and bought this program. After learning what we did wrong, we re-engineered the suspension as described above, and now produce consistent 60' times of 1.40-1.42, on 10.5" tires. I have used this same program to offer advice to Carl's set-up on Wully Bully II, which does 60' times of 1.29-1.32, and also Ray (Dynoray) and Aubrey. I will be glad to offer any insight to others, but it takes me time to do it. As far as pinion angle, exactly as Fatride said, you only want enough to equal the movement (twisting) of the rear on launch, so that it equals 0 degrees. We run more in Wully Bully than in Wully Bully II, because II has a more modern four link, that allows less twisting of the rear housing.

Steve, I thought about moving the lower mounts but figured that would lower the rear of the car because that's where the spring sets? How did you make up the difference? Is this for race only? How would this work on a street/strip car?

 

[Steve "wully bully"]

Models, It shouldn't matter whether it is one piece or two, as you are measuring the angle right in front of the u-joint at the pinion.
Ray, I don't think it would affect the ride height much, since the spring is at the opposite end of the change. I can tell you that the sedan sits slightly nose low, with the rear rims completely exposed in the wheelwell sitting still. We run stock 6 cylinder springs in the rear, with adjustable shocks. The car could be very streetable, as far as suspension, depending on the shock settings.
Steven

 

[Fathead Racing]

Steves posts with the rear suspension information should be preserved with a sticky, I have been searching for this information for a long time. Thank you Steven

 

[models916]

New from Bobs

Panhard relocater

http://www.classicchevywarehouse.co...panhard-rod-relocation-bracket/phc-84bkt.html

Anti-squat

The little bracket in the middle is available seperately. Anti squat brackett, I think its around $65.


http://www.classicchevywarehouse.co...gh-performance-rear-suspension/rsk-gplus.html

 

[Fathead Racing]

Panhard relocater

http://www.classicchevywarehouse.co...panhard-rod-relocation-bracket/phc-84bkt.html

Anti-squat

The little bracket in the middle is available seperately. Anti squat brackett, I think its around $65.


http://www.classicchevywarehouse.co...gh-performance-rear-suspension/rsk-gplus.html

Thank God I have the tools to make everything but the springs

 

[Tic's60]

I hear ya Ray!! Made many a toll in the shop with "Just For" use

Now a stupid question: What do you call the adjuster you use inbetween the tubes so you can move the tubes in and out
I know it has left and right hand threads on each end and a nut in the center but that does me no good on the searchs:eek:

thanks

Mike

 

[Fathead Racing]

I hear ya Ray!! Made many a toll in the shop with "Just For" use

Now a stupid question: What do you call the adjuster you use inbetween the tubes so you can move the tubes in and out
I know it has left and right hand threads on each end and a nut in the center but that does me no good on the searchs:eek:

thanks

Mike

Hey Mike, you don't really move the tubes in and out, you move the tube to move the threaded rod in and out! Weld the left and right treaded insert at each end of the rod, add jamb nuts and turn the rod to adjust. Here is a picture of what mine will not look like. :stooges

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...=10002&productId=764312&langId=-1&showValue=3

 

[Tic's60]

I guess you would call these double adjustable
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/58-6...ewItem?hash=item130203620532#ebayphotohosting



See you can adjust in the center and it moves the two parts away or twoards each other.

Or heck you could just get
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-POINT-HITCH-T...ryZ11756QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
3 point tractor hitch - yes I am thrifty.

 

[Fathead Racing]

Or heck you could just get
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-POINT-HITCH-T...ryZ11756QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
3 point tractor hitch - yes I am thrifty.
View attachment 9172[/QUOTE]

Jeeze, that's scary, we think alike! :eek:

 

[Tic's60]

well the things do hold up pretty well on the farm Same principle..kinda

 

[Fathead Racing]

well the things do hold up pretty well on the farm Same principle..kinda

A little sloppy though :

 

[Tic's60]

A little sloppy though :

Actualy no in this case. The ends are grade 8 heims with teflon centers. And since the stock arms are 13 3/4 center to center and these go below 13 1/2 there's enough there to adjust the pinion. hmmmmm.
The only thing is that these are straight vs curved..does that matter??