1962 Bel Air Bubble Top 409 Project
- Thread starter CASHguzzler409
- Start date
Phil hasn't seen a nipple, let alone turn one in years, sorry Phil.....I doubt he could even get under the "Dash"....
Im sure there is a blog on how to get the pesky little thing out of the dash? Paul will know, he's done it all, and maybe Phil. thanks guys....
Before you remove it....
I was thinking you said you could make speedo head register a speed and it work ed with a drill on end of cable turning counter clockwise. If so your speedometer head is ok. Just trying to save you some unnecessary work.
I was thinking you said you could make speedo head register a speed and it work ed with a drill on end of cable turning counter clockwise. If so your speedometer head is ok. Just trying to save you some unnecessary work.
Thanksblkblk63ss, thats what's drove me nuts all this time, when you hook it up to a drill it will, in reverse, at high spin move the need up to 100. Now we did test it again a couple days ago, and the speedometer needle did move when we
got the car in 4th gear and moving at a faster speed, so confusion is still working in my head. Im running a steel #8 drive gear, at the back of the 2"machined section on the main shaft. I have a 21 black driven gear in now. I have a 19, & 24 to try at home now. Will do more testing today. thanks for the advice, I really didn't want to take the dash apart yet.
got the car in 4th gear and moving at a faster speed, so confusion is still working in my head. Im running a steel #8 drive gear, at the back of the 2"machined section on the main shaft. I have a 21 black driven gear in now. I have a 19, & 24 to try at home now. Will do more testing today. thanks for the advice, I really didn't want to take the dash apart yet.
Run drill at a low speed and hold rpm steady. Does speedo needle show a steady speed. Run it a little faster and hold rpm again ,does it show faster and steady. Do different rpm of drill and steady. Does speedomer needle follow what drill is doing
Last edited:
Don, what if she has an inverted nipple?
Just got out from underneath her...... found her nipple and hooked it up to the drill, put drill in reverse, ran it slow, the needle moved up slowly, ran it faster, it moved up and held, it did not MOVE, when put in drill forward gear. Someone SLAP ME..... please
.
.That's my Skip!!!!!!!!!!!Don, what if she has an inverted nipple?
Now remove bullet from trans with cable on bullet .Can you connect to tit on plastic gear and again spin counter clock wise ,and does speedo needle do what drill does as slow steady rpm and to a faster steady rpm. If it don't you have a problem in bullet area as you run it just previously on so called nipple (the square end on inner cable ). Try this and we will go from there.Just got out from underneath her...... found her nipple and hooked it up to the drill, put drill in reverse, ran it slow, the needle moved up slowly, ran it faster, it moved up and held, it did not MOVE, when put in drill forward gear. Someone SLAP ME..... please
Update!!!!!! news bulletin...... we have slight movement of speedometer needle @ 25-3000 rpm's... 30mph.
while going through my invoices I found I had bought a #8 drive gear 1.84, and a 23 Tooth Driven Gear. From what
Paul on 5speeds.com says, this driven gear will not with the 1.84 drive gear. So I had a 21 clear driven gear and put that in, took it for a drive on the freeway, and at about 25-3000 rpms the speedometer read 30mph. BINGO......so now that I know that the speedo works, I have to double ck and make sure I have the drive gear in the correct position on the transmission shaft. You've heard the story about only doing (1) thing at a time. Well, the two driven gears I had, a black 22 gear, and a yellow 23 gear, will not work on a 1.84 drive gear. So..... as smart as I am, I decided to move the drive gear from the front position (which) did not work on the machined part of the transmission rear shaft, to the middle, it did not work, so the next step of course was to move it again, to the end of the machined portion. Thus... the story of doing only 1 thing at a time......
Of course if didn't matter where i put the gear, it wasn't going to work, with the two driven gears I had . So I read and re-read about the applications of the driven gears to the drive gears. Now .... I think I have the the drive gear in the wrong place at the end of the 2" machined portion on the shaft, it should as Paul said, be in the middle of that 2". Im still not sure how the driven gear can make up the difference in a 20 mile spread on the speedometer gauge, but i am happy to see the gauge move. Its back to "BEER".....and CHIPS.... NO donuts.
I know, you can quit laughing now......
cash.... Beer Driver for 30 years... mechanic "0"
while going through my invoices I found I had bought a #8 drive gear 1.84, and a 23 Tooth Driven Gear. From what
Paul on 5speeds.com says, this driven gear will not with the 1.84 drive gear. So I had a 21 clear driven gear and put that in, took it for a drive on the freeway, and at about 25-3000 rpms the speedometer read 30mph. BINGO......so now that I know that the speedo works, I have to double ck and make sure I have the drive gear in the correct position on the transmission shaft. You've heard the story about only doing (1) thing at a time. Well, the two driven gears I had, a black 22 gear, and a yellow 23 gear, will not work on a 1.84 drive gear. So..... as smart as I am, I decided to move the drive gear from the front position (which) did not work on the machined part of the transmission rear shaft, to the middle, it did not work, so the next step of course was to move it again, to the end of the machined portion. Thus... the story of doing only 1 thing at a time......
Of course if didn't matter where i put the gear, it wasn't going to work, with the two driven gears I had . So I read and re-read about the applications of the driven gears to the drive gears. Now .... I think I have the the drive gear in the wrong place at the end of the 2" machined portion on the shaft, it should as Paul said, be in the middle of that 2". Im still not sure how the driven gear can make up the difference in a 20 mile spread on the speedometer gauge, but i am happy to see the gauge move. Its back to "BEER".....and CHIPS.... NO donuts.
I know, you can quit laughing now......
cash.... Beer Driver for 30 years... mechanic "0"
Took out the metering rods and springs this morning in the front carb, I believe its a 3804, the rods were 16-124 with a silver #8HG spring, I see they go from a #3-8. I called Mikes Carbs, and they suggested checking jets, as my spark
plugs were all black and wet. They suggested dropping down a few #'s say from if I had a 100- to a 95. If doing that would I then, also have to change metering rods?. I did change plugs to a hotter 45Ns, I only ran it for a 10 miles, so will take them out and ck their condition.
plugs were all black and wet. They suggested dropping down a few #'s say from if I had a 100- to a 95. If doing that would I then, also have to change metering rods?. I did change plugs to a hotter 45Ns, I only ran it for a 10 miles, so will take them out and ck their condition.
Last edited:
You could just change the jets.
Or you could get a metering rod a little larger then you won't have to pull the top of the carburetor off.
If the idle is okay then just get a rod with the small end larger.
Or you could get a metering rod a little larger then you won't have to pull the top of the carburetor off.
If the idle is okay then just get a rod with the small end larger.
Unless you been making some wide open throttle runs, I would start with the metering rods and check your fuel pressure. If you have Edelbrock carbs, you really should check their booklet for adjusting them. I believe they have them available to view on their website.
Have Carter AFB's org. so, if Im running 16-124 now, to go bigger, is it the 16# or the 124 # I should go up on?. And if you do change the metering rods, do you have to change the springs also. thanks
I think the 16 number will stay the same the last three numbers will change.
The 16- is the reference number for a metering rod.
The 16- is the reference number for a metering rod.
This is a good read here if you haven't already seen it. 
http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/afb-metering-rods.7265/
http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/afb-metering-rods.7265/
We found Mike's problem with the speed in his bubble top. Wrong driven gear installed. Stripped the teeth of from not meshing properly. 
