Paul, is it feasible to change to all 62 system.....and if so, do the brake and clutch pedals need to be changed?
61 biscayne build
- Thread starter Dean's 61 bubble
- Start date
looks like both springs accomplish the same thing.....
The pivot ball is still used (a different one is necessary )in a factory treaded hole in your block for the Z bar.
Yes it is feasible to switch to 62 system.
You need to send me a picture of your clutch fork -so I can see how to connect the lower push rod to it. A lower threaded rod can also be used to help with the connection (it depends on the type of clutch fork you have)
See these pictures of a 61 Chevy clutch and brake set out of the car.
Let me know if your clutch/brake set looks like the one in these pictures -it should & your clutch fork pictures.
Paul
Yes it is feasible to switch to 62 system.
You need to send me a picture of your clutch fork -so I can see how to connect the lower push rod to it. A lower threaded rod can also be used to help with the connection (it depends on the type of clutch fork you have)
See these pictures of a 61 Chevy clutch and brake set out of the car.
- The first picture is passenger side of a original clutch/brake set for a 1961 Chevy. The over ride spring that Phil mentioned is in the picture.
- The second picture is the other side of a factory clutch and brake set. There are some 61 linkage parts in the picture-The lower rod my not fit your clutch fork (if I am right about the type of clutch fork that you might have)
Let me know if your clutch/brake set looks like the one in these pictures -it should & your clutch fork pictures.
Paul
To use a 62 Chevy clutch system you have to change to the 62 clutch and brake pedals
Like the pictures below
Lets see what clutch fork you have first...
Like the pictures below
- 1st picture of a 62 chevy set of clutch and brake pedals restored as the originals were painted
- picture of all the clutch linkage -frame bracket for Z bar, long upper adjustable rod, Z bar and Z bar linkage set, lower rod, both pull back springs, and a 327/409 style clutch fork with a factory style pin connection for the factory lower rod ( the clutch fork does not have a slot for a threaded rod with a adjustable pin)
Lets see what clutch fork you have first...
Paul, i definitely have 61 set up for 6 cyl. my clutch fork is a socket for a long shaft with a ball on the end and probably some kind of retainer spring (seems like i have seen this set up when i was younger) shouldn't be to hard to make one if i can't find one. All of my linkage, pedals and all are low milege and probably will try to make the 61 stuff work 1st before trying anything else. Did you says the 6 cyl. Z-bar can be used with a ball stud for W motor? Appreciate your taking the time to send me the pics and supplying info. I probably won't do any thing else till engine is in the car. Thank you again, Dean
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Your question:
Did you says the 6 cyl. Z-bar can be used with a ball stud for W motor?
The answer is yes to both items. I will send another picture showing the correct engine ball that will screw right into your block.
On the clutch fork in the picture, my opinion at this time, is to switch to another clutch fork with a more positive
connection for the lower rod (pictures again will help with what I mean).
You can use available parts if you switch clutch forks. I will post the fork to use. The fork I am suggesting should work
just fine on the scattershield I see in the pictures.
That clutch fork in your pictures was not designed for 61 to 64 Chevy's its a later model with a different system to hook to the Z bar and will need a strong spring to keep the lower rod in place.
I worry about the lower rod falling out of that fork and having to make a rod to fit it and your 61 Z bar.
You need to use a adjustable lower rod with a pin through the clutch fork from my experience to get the adjustment to work for freeplay and proper clutch release.
Paul
Did you says the 6 cyl. Z-bar can be used with a ball stud for W motor?
The answer is yes to both items. I will send another picture showing the correct engine ball that will screw right into your block.
On the clutch fork in the picture, my opinion at this time, is to switch to another clutch fork with a more positive
connection for the lower rod (pictures again will help with what I mean).
You can use available parts if you switch clutch forks. I will post the fork to use. The fork I am suggesting should work
just fine on the scattershield I see in the pictures.
That clutch fork in your pictures was not designed for 61 to 64 Chevy's its a later model with a different system to hook to the Z bar and will need a strong spring to keep the lower rod in place.
I worry about the lower rod falling out of that fork and having to make a rod to fit it and your 61 Z bar.
You need to use a adjustable lower rod with a pin through the clutch fork from my experience to get the adjustment to work for freeplay and proper clutch release.
Paul
I agree on finding a different clutch fork Paul. Are the lengths of them generally the same (to pivot on the ball inside the bell housing or do you think that will also be problematic? I also intertaining the idea of modifying lengths of arms on the z bar and drilling various holes to move the fulcrum points to modify pedal pressure. it will be interesting...do you have a clutch fork that you think i can use?
here is a clutch fork comparison of the two forks that work the best on 61 to 64 chevys.
The forks are the same length.
The top one in the picture was on 327 and 409 cars but it does not allow installing a adjustable lower arm without a special pin
to fit into the top of the fork. For your 61 Chevy I suggest the lower fork in the picfures so you can add a lower adjustable arm
-all since your upper arm does not have any adjustment.
You need this type of lower arm in my opinion when you use your 61 linkage and pedals I have this arm on my 62 SS 409 Hardtop
and a non treaded lower arm on my 62 SS 409 convertible. Both of my cars have adjustable upper rods your 61 upper linkage arm does not have any adjustment (original 61 lower arms were adjustable similar to this link)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
The 2 rods in my pictures below will not work on the upper clutch fork in the pictures below without a flat plate pin into the fork
The lower rod link above --will work with the lower fork and the connection will be better.
Paul
The forks are the same length.
The top one in the picture was on 327 and 409 cars but it does not allow installing a adjustable lower arm without a special pin
to fit into the top of the fork. For your 61 Chevy I suggest the lower fork in the picfures so you can add a lower adjustable arm
-all since your upper arm does not have any adjustment.
You need this type of lower arm in my opinion when you use your 61 linkage and pedals I have this arm on my 62 SS 409 Hardtop
and a non treaded lower arm on my 62 SS 409 convertible. Both of my cars have adjustable upper rods your 61 upper linkage arm does not have any adjustment (original 61 lower arms were adjustable similar to this link)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
The 2 rods in my pictures below will not work on the upper clutch fork in the pictures below without a flat plate pin into the fork
The lower rod link above --will work with the lower fork and the connection will be better.
Paul
Phil and Dean,
The 62 to 64 adjustable upper clutch rod will not work with his 61 Chevy clutch pedal under his dash(in my opinion) . He wants to reuse his 1961 Chevy clutch and brake pedals and his upper rod and Z bar
With my suggestion Dean can keep his 61 pedals, 61 upper rod and the 61 Z bar/crossshaft -just change the lower rod to adjustable and a clutch fork to fit the rod -the hole in the bottom of his Z bar will have to be checked to make sure the pin from the adjustable lower rod will fit(the Z bar hole may have to be drilled out)
Dean will probably need new pull back springs for the linkage.
The 62 to 64 adjustable upper clutch rod will not work with his 61 Chevy clutch pedal under his dash(in my opinion) . He wants to reuse his 1961 Chevy clutch and brake pedals and his upper rod and Z bar
With my suggestion Dean can keep his 61 pedals, 61 upper rod and the 61 Z bar/crossshaft -just change the lower rod to adjustable and a clutch fork to fit the rod -the hole in the bottom of his Z bar will have to be checked to make sure the pin from the adjustable lower rod will fit(the Z bar hole may have to be drilled out)
Dean will probably need new pull back springs for the linkage.
- The under the dash clutch arm for 62's are way different than the 61 clutch pedal connection point.
- The connection locations for the upper rod are way different
- See the pictures of the pedals I posted above on Wednesday (61 pedals Drs side) and right below posted Thursday - the 62 pedals (Drs side) . Look at the hole in each arm for the upper rod and the shape of the arm on the pedals.
- Dean could (with his 61 under dash pedals ) --- try a 1962 upper arm but: --- he would need a 62 Z bar and 62 upper adjustable rod that he does not have.
- "IF " the 62 parts work on his 61 pedals then ---he could use the 62/63 409/327 clutch fork and a lower rod -in this case he has to buy 4 different clutch parts VS buying only 2 parts for what I suggested (fork and lower rod).
- Finally a new 62/63 clutch fork($114) costs way more than a new 59-60 clutch fork ($ 48). Normally a used 62/63 forks are harder to find today and more costly.
- I have the 59-60 clutch fork on my 62 SS 409 Hardtop with a 11 & 1/2" long lower adjustable rod with a pin in the clutch fork with the rest of the linkage for a 1962.
Paul, any chance you could send me a pic. of your linkage hooked up on the car.....kinda soooo i can see the complete picture. Does the piece (a pivot post) a few inches behind the driver side body mount on the inside of the frame was for the column shift linkage, right? I am running my brake line thru this area and want to cut that post off the frame. Sorry i have slept since i took this thing apart. LOL
like Phil -sorry Phil I could not resist....
that is too funny!!!
well, think i will now put my stroked 409 in my bubbletop to take to Bowling green....getting ready to put the cam in and heads on my stroked 348. The truck heads cost me a fortune to have redone but at least my offy manifold will fit. Biscayne still in KC for floor work completion.
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Hi Don, opened up underneath the valves, screw in studs, and machined for guide plates, machine work for rotator eliminators ....and as the rest of the motor, guides did not need replacing, so stayed with 11/32 stainless valves and of course new springs, retainers, keepers, umbrella seals on the intakes. Seems like i had to pay a lot for machine work....