This is the final fitting. Traced around all of the braces to mark the location of where to drill all of the plug weld holes. Now to remove the floors and start drilling. Good.thing I've got a punch / flange tool for all if the perimeter holes.
62 Impala rustoration: We're going to try and save another one
- Thread starter Jim Sullivan
- Start date
The middle seam looks tighter now. Will you be welding solid top and bottom and smoothing weld's.
Eventually the center will be welded solid. I'll start with a bunch of plug welds just to get it in there. Once the floors are tacked in, this project will be on hold for a couple months or so. I've got to switch to fabricating several air cleaners and a couple other top secret projects I'm working on. 
Finished drilling and punching holes yesterday. Cleaned and coated all of the flanges with weld through primer( I hate weld through primer, but it is a necessary evil). Next step, drop.the floor pans in and weld it. One note on the floor pans. I am pretty sure this set of floor pans is a thinner gauge than the last set I installed in my 63. I didn't measure them, but it sure feels like 21-22 gauge. I'll try and remember to mic them before install.
Ever try that copper stuff? I got a can but it promptly blocked up after only a few uses so it just sits there on the shelf mocking me. 
The zinc kind like you used just scratches off. I use the same but often wonder if I'm wasting my time.
There is one more job you need to do Jim. Get that frame spiffy'd up before you drop the pans in. (unless your doing a body off but I don't think you are)
The zinc kind like you used just scratches off. I use the same but often wonder if I'm wasting my time.
There is one more job you need to do Jim. Get that frame spiffy'd up before you drop the pans in. (unless your doing a body off but I don't think you are)
22 gage sheet metal is only .0299" thick, almost as bad as heavy duty tinfoil, yikes that is some thin stuff.
The frame is junk Bob. The body will be coming off the frame after the quarters are replaced.Ever try that copper stuff? I got a can but it promptly blocked up after only a few uses so it just sits there on the shelf mocking me.
The zinc kind like you used just scratches off. I use the same but often wonder if I'm wasting my time.
There is one more job you need to do Jim. Get that frame spiffy'd up before you drop the pans in. (unless your doing a body off but I don't think you are)
Yah that frame looks nasty !!!!
My frame looked bad too but cleaned up. I did have to replace the LH rear rail and rear cross member that goes behind bumper.
I've got another frame just waiting for reconditioning. 
Jim, did they really think you were going to put that nice floor work on that shi.. frame.? 
or do they just like mess'n with u? Keep up the great work.
Sure would like to know the "secret" mission project you doing. Cash $$
or do they just like mess'n with u? Keep up the great work.Sure would like to know the "secret" mission project you doing. Cash $$
Hey Jim that spot welder you’re using is that the 110v or the 220v? Beautiful work btw!!!
I measured the floor pan metal thickness at break time. It measures .039" with the e-coat. So, it's about 20 gauge. Sure seams thinner, maybe it's just a softer metal?
The spot welder is the 220v version. Gotta be careful, as it will burn holes if you hold it on too long.
Thanks Jim!!
Well Phil, it may be a while until Sue can get out to the craft stores and find the correct size eyes, but here it is as of now.
Hats off to ya, that’s a hell of a lot of work