63 Biscayne junior stock drag car build

63 dream'n

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 4
A little bit.
Going through a divorce with children involved. Not the funnest time in my life right now. Fixing rust is about the only way to keep my sanity.

Very sorry to hear about your pending divorce, and for the kids....... just went through that two years ago myself......... doesn’t seem to leave me, it’s just right on the surface .....every time I start to think or talk about it ....... and even if I don’t get asked about it, when my mind is idle ......... which unfortunately for me .......:crazyis probably far too often ..........I hope you fare better in head and in court than I did........
 

Tom Miller

Well Known Member
Fender bodywork done and in primer, got the patches welded in the driver door, initial body filler on door.
Flipped it over and sandblasted the lower door seam, treated, primed, and seam sealed it.
Today do final body work on the door and hopefully get it in primer too.

The body shop that I purchased this car from had previously pulled the car apart and did some initial work on it, poor quality work. They eliminated all the upper Biscayne body molding holes. Looks like they let a 13yr old kid try to learn how to weld the holes shut. The welds were full of holes and the backside looked like a porcupine. Then to add insult to injury, they ground the welds with a stone wheel on an electric grinder. The surrounding sheet metal was gouged, warped, you name it. This is what I have to deal with the full length of both sides of the car.
 

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Tom Miller

Well Known Member
Well, fender is done, door almost done.
Decided to have my son give me a hand pulling the front seat and vacuuming the leaves and garbage out of it to get an idea of what the floor was going to need for repair.
Uuuuuuggghh, quite a bit worse than I was hoping.
Needs both braces under the seat replaced, and the center section of floor under the seat. The footwells aren't too bad other than driver rear has some holes.
Now I need to figure out the best source and prices on floorpan sections and braces.
 

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pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
I think he means me.
There 3 ways to do the floors based on the floor pans sold-only 2 you should consider (the replacement panel coverage is different). Looks like you have 2 or 3 bad braces per side, You need a spot weld drill.
Be sure to check for thin sheetmetal areas and pin holes...
I would save as much of the original floor as possible from what I see in your pictures(after 10 frame off restorations that I have done over the last 25 years) Have lots of pictures
Cars Inc has been my primary source over the last 3/4 restorations, one of them was a complete floor replacement using a USA or Canada jig made full floor with the braces.
Paul
 

Tom Miller

Well Known Member
I wish someone sold just the center section under the seat.
I'm going to have to buy two full sides, cut off the footwells, replace braces and then the center section replacement.
 

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
You are correct the underseat section only comes on 1/2 floor pan sections that don’t have braces. The 4 individual replacement floor pans sold exclude the area under the seat

You might want to at least “consider” a full floor pan. How many of your braces are bad ? (6 of them?) You could end up with lots of spot weld removal and significant welded edges of partial replacement areas.
Do you have pin holes in your floor? After we blasted both sides of the floor pan we ended up with many additional pin holes leading to more floor replacement needed.
I would bet that your inner rockers are rusted and have some significant holes in them from the rusted braces I see in your pictures. I buy both inners rocker sections ( they are only sold as full length replacement pieces)- all the braces are spot welded to the inner rockers. I only replace the inner rockers were they have holes, leaving the solid sections of inner rockers in place.

Other Items to remember to handle:
  • You have to save and transfer from the bottom side of your floor pan- the rectangular front seat mounting brackets that have the fixed threaded nuts for the seat brackets. These seat brackets are actually mounted under the factory braces.
  • Also transfer 4 front seat belt square cage nut style mounts from the bottom of the floor pan
  • There are on 63’s diagonal braces under the front floor pans to transfer to the new floor work
  • If you get near to the back seat area, the rear seat springs mounting brackets have to be transferred ( if you remove that area).
  • All floor pans do not come with the drain holes cut out in the new sheetmetal. There are 6 inside the car and 2 in the trunk.
  • On my floor work I cut out the drain holes on the new sheetmetal to match the original drain holes( I/ we even bend the edges down on the drain holes) drill new hex screw holes, use the original hex screws, and reinstall the factory drain covers over the open drain holes. I want my floor pans to look original even though they were replaced

Do you want pictures of our full floor replacement with the braces on 62 Chevy ?
I Used a jig welded Cars Inc USA floor pan with all the braces attached - much better than the overseas floor pan with braces.
Shipping was only $145 to western Iowa for the full floor pan.
Paul
 

Tom Miller

Well Known Member
Sure, would love to see pictures/options, ideas.
Thank you.
I've done more than my fair share of floorpan repair and replacement over the years, but not with these full size x frame cars. All of my experience has been on 64-72 A bodies, and 67-81 F bodies.
 
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