Fixin a Ronnie Russell Stroker..

bwell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Had similar symptoms as you. Turned out to be crack in #5 cylinder wall. With oil change pressure would be ok till got a little warm then would drop to almost zero. Oil looked like your pics. Didn't show in leak down test cause crack was lower than rings at tdc.
 

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Some great news fellas! So we wet through the pressure testing, leak down and its not as easy as it sounds. Takes a crap ton of effort to turn it over, and to land exactly TDC on compression is a real challenge. Couple we couldn't do because when we added air, it cranked over! Number 7 was the furthest off, about 10-15%, but started thinking. We really never ran this hard after ronnie sent it, then we stored it like a treasure for 2 1/2th years and landed here. Started wondering if the crud we saw was zinc additive or just waste because it sat.

Avery and I started a full flush. We started by draining the oil and took a sample in a clear mixing cup. We flushed the oil and went with new Rotela conventional 15-40 (is this correct?) and added a bottle of Lucas break-in zinc additive. We pulled off the old filter, felt like it was welded on and looked through it and NO metal. We then put a 5 gal bucket of race fuel next to the car and jumped from there straight to the fuel pump.

We pulled the valve covers, checked to see we were mostly correct in the settings , lubed/saturated all the rockers with oil, then fire her with the covers off. Oil didnt immediately come through the rockers , took about 60 seconds, but was there drizzling oil on them. Pressure hit 75/8- right away, and we kept her idling at 1k, watching the rockers. We did see drops of water coming through the rockers at first. We let it dribble through for about 2/3 min, then shut her down drain the entire oil system and took another sample. From this sample we now had three clear cups with oil. One cup was straight from the bottle, the second our most recent and third oldest. They were getting more like the bottle.

We followed this process again, and each time took a sample, oil became better and better. We also tapped paper towels to the walls to watch the water discharge from the exhaust and noticed less and less. In the third change, we let her come to temp, let the coolant circulate and watch the rockers. Each time we were getting smoked out but watched like a hawk to see if we could notice water...TO this point, we cant see any, and heres the pics of the oil now... Im hoping you guys will say we dodged a bullet, but if we need to test more, umber 7 we can. Im thinking we we have gunk in the system, old fuel. It was pure yellow when we siphoned the tank, even seeped through the bass carb gaskets until we tightened everything. .

Whats our next steps, timing check and compression test again? She sounded SOOOOOO sweet :>)


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plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Put the valve covers on it,new fuel in it,make sure the radiator is full,and DRIVE it! recheck the oil upon returning.

Will do Don, on it!! I guess we took to saving our car way too seriously, she needs to run and will try to get to the registry today...

Question, what's the best fuel mix? I have straight cam 2 in her now, should i do 50/50 or go for a quick ride in that first? Also, is the 15/40 rotella with the lucas break in correct? we were flushing with it just want to be sure....


FYI, hair raising story.. Avery and I were doing the work (hes the boy in the pics) and the offy valve cover on the drivers side is near impossible to get on and off due to the brake booster. Its literally like 45 min to figure it out. WELL, we were all done and i looked at avery and asked, are we positive nothing is left behind, meaning, are all valve cover bolts and washers accounted for? We both hated the idea of pulling it apart again, but something kept saying DO IT< DO IT, DO IT! We've been know for trying to find the easy way out, but did it and found the bolt and washer under there!! We couldn't believe it and the hair on my arm raised... Thanked a few people no longer here and put it back together.....
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
The Lucas is good,but I'd wonder if the break in oil is necessary.When you change the oil,I to would look at the Brad-Penn 15/40.Since this engine has a roller cam,you could switch to a good full synthetic of about the same weight.I will say this about the Brad-Penn.I love the way that it sticks to engine parts.We just spent the last 3 days putting the 380's short block together,and that stuff is amazing.As far as your fuel,if that aluminum headed engine is well tuned,it should run fine on pump 93 octane.
 
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plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Another quick update, i called Virginia today! I let her know that Ronnie was an amazing man, wonderful person that had the kindest of hearts. His generous sharing of his time gave us, me and my kids a wonderful experience that were all so grateful and better to have had him part of it. We joked about how he also chewed my butt when i did something wrong, and she laughed about him and Berry going at it a time or two... What a great guy....
 

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Happy Thanksgiving and sharing some news! Sorry for the long delay, life got in the way...

Wanted to share some fantastic news, the Ronnie Russell Stroker is running great but had a couple challenges along the way. We changed the oil, looked in the filter and saw very minimal filings, re-fired her up and set timing. Going up and down we could hear a ping, and added more race fuel. This went on, adding more race fuel, test run, more etc and noticed the ping wasn't leaving. We pulled up Dons instructions on how to set timing by insuring tdc on compression stroke, then making sure our mark and tab aligned. Tried again to hit 34 all in @3k. Seemed to work but sounded like a knock in the engine and although it went away when it warmed up, the ping was still there.

We went through our instructions over and over and realized we were DOUBLE counting our advanced!! We were using a dial indicator type timing light and set that to 34, but also tried to hit 34 on the balancer, which doubled our advance. The way we realized this, when i tried to start it, she kicked back which was our first clue. The second clue, the ping, and the final, we used our French Grimes light and saw we were WAY OFF...

Its now set to 34, and she seems to be running great. We went through about a half tank with the advanced way off but didnt get into it so hope and pray we didn't hurt her..

We did take her out for a nice ride and the pics say a thousand words. My inlaws and one of the 4 kids in the car just crusin!! They talked the entire time about days gone by and just loved the sounds and smell of a real car.. Funny watching them take pics and videos, they were kids again....

Question, should we re-check our valves because of the advanced issue?

THANK YOU to ALL of you who got us here and wont disappear again...

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plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Yes, she fired and i heard a knock that scared the bejesus out of me, got light headed in the same way when the kids were born and was in the delivery room...

Sounds like your saying drive it, so we'll do just that and report back! Hoping your right about the race gas, bit of a pain to lug tubs home to mix...

Ill report back later today, PROMISE...

Kurt
 

ragtp66

Well Known Member
You had said the engine was sitting in storage for about 2 years if it sat that whole time with out rotating the engine periodically it can be hard on valve springs. Its good to rotate it at least monthly and keep the cylinders lubricated. I like to use fogging oil that we winterize our marine engines with to keep the cylinders lubricated and keep moisture away.
 

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Put in 30 miles or so and came back to check on things. No noticable pings in the drive just a few small things to take care of, hydroboost drip and looosing fluid,, ps belt was rubbing a bit on pump, idler arm had slop, and a shimmy at 70.. fixed the leak, dremeled the ps pump case to clear the belt, fixed idler arm, and rebalance my tires..

Still have a shimmy at 70, is there a way to know if its not the driveshaft?

On the valvetrain, how long before a gap.check??

Thanks guys, been a blast. We come and go it it all day...
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
On the valve train,I'd say about 500 mi.Is the shake in the seat or in the steering wheel?
 

Skip FIx

Well Known Member
I had a motor sitting for a couple of days on the dyno after the first pull (dyno issues) have enough condensation in the valve covers to "milkshake" to oil up top like that. Still running strong 10 years later!
 
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