Fixin a Ronnie Russell Stroker..

61BUBBLE348

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Supporting Member 11
My guess the shimmy at 70 is probably drive shaft angles, can you drive through it ? or does it get worse.
 

plumcrazy

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Supporting Member 6
Hi Guys, come along for a ride!!!! Around 50mph or so shes smooth as a kitten, no vibration. Its about 55-65+ im guessing and when it starts its the whole car. You feel it in the floor, rear. The rear-end is all new, detroit locker 3:73... I've tried a few ways, gently bring her up to speed in drive, then again in mid and the same thing happened. Ive also flipped it into neutral when it happened thinking to eliminate the trans but it still happened, so im thinking its the driveshaft? I did pull all 4 tires and brought them to a local shop to re-balance, and yes, the tires are going the right way...

Sound, if you listen you can hear the valvetrain but you all know im no expert on these. Sounds loud to me and in the ride you can hear it. Now keep in mind you can see in the engine compartment through the break booster hole, but it seems loud so thinking I should re-gap? The heads are eddies that me and the kids put on, and reading Dons post, .010 intake and .014 exhaust? Its gonna be a pain with the hydro booster in the way, ill take a pic...

Otherwise, not burning oil, no over heating. We did start with all race fuel, slowly added 3 gals at a time till it was all 93 but she pinged. We tried to put the VP octane boost in with 6 gal of fresh 93, no love, still a little ping. I drover her about 25 miles to get race fuel and when i put in 8 gals with only about 3 regular left, she purred...

 
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plumcrazy

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Supporting Member 6
Oh, and we went with the mechanical oil gauge instead of the idiot light. Is there a way to get both? I have the oil sending line hooked up right next to the oil filter, so should i try to use the spot behind the rotor for an idiot light?

Many thanks, were back on the road and put about 100 miles in, but wouldnt know, need a new speedo cable apparently, ha!!
 

plumcrazy

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Supporting Member 6
My guess the shimmy at 70 is probably drive shaft angles, can you drive through it ? or does it get worse.


Good q. I dont think it gets worse, however makes you nervous cuz you feel it through the floor. Thinking i should pull the shaft and get it checked in case?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Pull the drive shaft,check the u-joints,center bearing,and slip yoke if it has one.Did it do this before the car sat for two years? If not,then it can't be the angles.There are "T's that you can get so that you can use both the sender and the gauge from the same port.
 

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Pull the drive shaft,check the u-joints,center bearing,and slip yoke if it has one.Did it do this before the car sat for two years? If not,then it can't be the angles.There are "T's that you can get so that you can use both the sender and the gauge from the same port.


Now that you mention it, we never had the shimmy pre-storage... Hmm... The T, I think I know what you mean and will add one and extend the wiring...So smart..
 

Don Jacks

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Supporting Member 3
Another thing on that shake,Kurt,it's possible that one of the rear tires develeped a flat spot due to sitting for so long in one spot.To quote the late Smokey Yunick"You can balance a square block of wood,but you cant ride on it".
 

plumcrazy

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Supporting Member 6
Don, I think that could be it, love the quote, ha!... When we had it out before, granted not lot of miles because we were putting it together, for sure would have noticed this vibration and nothing. Now you mention it, when it was in storage it was NOT on jacks and one of the tires was flat for. No idea how long that was there, but you can bet more than a year. All the driveline components of the car are new to include suspension.

Here's a pic of the hydroboost, gotta disconnect and move to take a cover off, ugggg. I did try to find an offset for this and couldn't find a thing.
 

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Don Jacks

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Supporting Member 3
Check with Mike[58 Delivery],He may know of such a bracket. Replace that tire with your spare and see if the shake goes away.If it does,replace said tire,it has a bad or deformed belt inside it.
 

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Check with Mike[58 Delivery],He may know of such a bracket. Replace that tire with your spare and see if the shake goes away.If it does,replace said tire,it has a bad or deformed belt inside it.


Got it, will ask and will swap and see what happens with the spare...

Going down to start on the valves and to be sure, I have the below cam and lifters. When i pull the link to these lifters, they say solid, so in that method I bring number 1 into tdc, when exhaust starts to move, set intake to .010 and then exhaust to .014 cold. Repeat through the firing order?

Lifters http://www.compcams.com/Products/CC-'Endure X'-0.aspx

COMP CAMS ROLLER CAM-(4874-4875 GRIND, 110 LOBE CENTER/ 242 @ 50 INTAKE , 646 LIFT/
248 @ 50 EXHAUST, 653 LIFT)
-COMP CAMS ROLLER LIFTERS
-MANLEY .080 PUSHRODS
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
When the exhaust goes down about 1/2 way,set the intake,rotate the engine until the intake goes down about the same distance,set the exhaust valve.You can either go by firing order,or simply go the next cylinder.I like to go cylinder by cylinder myself,it's simpler.
 

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
When the exhaust goes down about 1/2 way,set the intake,rotate the engine until the intake goes down about the same distance,set the exhaust valve.You can either go by firing order,or simply go the next cylinder.I like to go cylinder by cylinder myself,it's simpler.


Ok... Is this method ok, just one rotation?
 

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Don Jacks

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Yes,that method can work as long as you don't forget where you are if the phone rings during the process and you forget where you were.I do it differently,but that's just me.
 

plumcrazy

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Supporting Member 6
Yes,that method can work as long as you don't forget where you are if the phone rings during the process and you forget where you were.I do it differently,but that's just me.

HAHA! Just wrote it all out and headed down. Probably take quite a while, check twice...
 

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Wiggling them won’t tell you very much with a solid lifter cam need to get the feeler gauges in there to know where your at.


Checking now. Also posting a pic of the plugs since their out and the left side rockers the same, see this vid...
Also, can you guys see #3 roller, its off to the left it looks like.

 

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plumcrazy

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Supporting Member 6
So I tried to be smart and failed. Somehow I got lost and had to go back to the the EOIC Exhaust Open Intake Close method. I turned over the engine to see the exhaust starting to open and adjusted the intake side, then as the intake started to close did the exhaust. If this is right, ill button it up and give it a go...

Ended up .010 for intake and .014 for exhaust.

Pic here of a valve stem on intake that was 030. On the rods, i did not see any with wear on them due to guide plate rubbing. If theres anything else I would check let me know...Thanks everyone!
 

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