I'm going to try this out.

[models916]

A friend of mine does transmissions and rear ends for a living. Says he can make this 10 bolt Chevelle rear live in my Belair. Bought the housing out of a 28,000 mile 65 Chevelle. Added a Yukon posi and Motive 4:56 gears. Motive chrome moly axles are on order. Needs a saddle braced rear cover and maybe no hop bars. Still deciding wether to go 3/4 link with the track bar or use the Chevelle triangulated uppers. If I remember, I will take pics along the way. As always, opinions are welcome and even requested. I usually like to do it my way but I take everything into consideration. There are a few out there that know more than me.

 

[models916]

This is how I'm think on the Triangulated uppers. Have to get some used stock uppers for a measurement.

 

[oldskydog]

Corporate 8.5 is better.

 

[MRHP]

Are you going with a c-clip eliminator?

 

[models916]

Corporate 8.5 is better.

The yukon IS the 8.5 with the ring gear flange drilled for the 8.2's smaller diameter bolts. 28 spline axles and 25 spline pinion. If I do bust it up, it's about half the price for parts than the 8.2 drop out. Yukon posi delivered was $350 I got the motive gear for $35 and Summit had the axles, studs, bearings, and seals for $197 pr, free shipping.

 

[oldskydog]

The main advantage of the corp 8.5 is that the pinion is thicker, the same diameter as the 12 bolt. Can the 8.2 housing be modified to take the bigger pinion?

 

[models916]

Nope, still has to use the 8.2 ring and pinion. I'm not a racer, just hard on things. My guy tells me I won't break the gears if I use a saddle brace. It's only good to about 600 hp with slicks and the auto. Can't do that with the GM ring and pinion.

 

[models916]

Leaving the C-clip axles.

 

[Ishiftem]

Before you get into this, I would also suggest the 8.5 because of the pinion size. Here is some food for thought. I doubt my engine makes 600 hp, slicks, with a stick. I cracked every tooth on the pinion and ring gear and that is with a 9". Luckily I caught it before it let go.

 

[models916]

He did say Automatic only. Just trying to go a little stronger than my stock unit and cheaper to repair when it does brake.

 

[yellow wagon]

I'm not sure that will be much stronger either honestly? I have a buddy with a 380" small block in his 65 Chevelle. With a beefed up stock rearend in his car, he spit the pinion out, busted the ring gear and sent metal through the rear cover on drag radials and that's behind a 500hp small block in a much lighter car than our big yachts!

 

[models916]

The only stock part is the housing. Everything else is better or stronger than the the stock 8.2 except for the ring and pinion diameter. Ring and Pinion is Motive 25% stronger than stock. Has to be stronger than my 8.2 drop out? without the brace on the caps the pinion climes the ring gear as the caps squirm. I probably have 400 hp or less.

 

[yellow wagon]

Then it might survive My buddy's small block in his 65 Malibu is pretty basic, AFR headed, 11.5:1, Victor Jr intake etc etc through a tremec 5spd. With drag radials on the street it grenaded the rearend. Seriously metal chunks everywhere. Broke the rearend and cracked the tailshaft housing on the tremec! Neighbors weren't too happy bout the gear oil all over the fresh concrete street. OOPS!

 

[Don Jacks]

We never know if we can do better until we try! What's the worst it can do,break? Good luck,Mike.

 

[models916]

You guys, c'mon! There are no Chevrolet parts left in the rear end. You're talking apples to oranges. When you say somebody broke a ten bolt, you're talking stock Chevy parts.

 

[1961BelAir427]

I say go for it. You've already bought the parts to build it except for the rear girdle. I remember years back seeing pics on here where someone used a chevelle 12 bolt and used the "ears" and custom uppers (with rod ends I think) so it was triangulated. I seem to recall they were long uppers that mounted low near the LCA to frame mounts. I don't think it used a panhard bar anymore. It wasn't one of the newer (at the time) builds, but was pictures of an old race car if I remember correctly. I saved them, but that was 2 or 3 computers ago at least.

I've seen (and done it myself) people give a lot of hell to the little 7.5" & 7.625" ten bolts in LT1/LS1 cars. They usually hold up until they are running in the 12's with an automatic with drag radials....and even for awhile with the six speed. They will bust with the six speed and drag radials when the motors are stock.

I agree the 8.5" would have been better, but you will still be a step above our 8.2" - 17 spline pumpkin rear in my opinion. Almost forgot, I had a 64 Chevelle SS with a very mild 454, M22, and an 8.2 posi ten bolt....3.73's. It was a factory 283/4 speed/12 bolt car. The original 12 bolt had been scavenged before I got the car. I never had slicks on it, but the guy I bought it from gave it royal hell on the street for a few years while I drooled over it. Finally got it (along with many problems (not the rear) after his abusing it....and swapped it for a 1962 Bel Air 2 dr sedan 6cyl/3 spd which is now collecting rust.

 

[1961BelAir427]

Models, here is the thread with the pictures of the 12 bolt that Denny built for Fred. (R.I.P.) He used 4 link brackets for the upper control arm brackets. I think they would be easier to weld to the center section than the large factory brackets like I used on mine. See post #11. http://www.348-409.com/forum/index.php?threads/12-bolt-rear-end.8429/

 

[region rat]

Greg Reimer did a older Chevelle 12 bolt swap into his 62 and detailed the cutting of the upper arms to triangulate them. He ran it for years. There may be a link to it here somewhere.

Bob

 

[1961BelAir427]

Did you ever do anything else with this Mike?

 

[Dick MacKenzie]

you know, the title to this thread sounds like something I would have said in my younger days after a few too many brews!