Seth,
It's actually the #180 Extreme that comes with the fan controller and shroud. PM me and we can discuss a price.
Bill
It's Summer - Nuts must be overheating !!!!
- Thread starter Nuts
- Start date
Seth,
It's actually the #180 Extreme that comes with the fan controller and shroud. PM me and we can discuss a price.
Bill
I have checked that a couple of times in the past, but will have to check again, just for comfort !
Bill
They will puke if overfilled, you have to let her find her own level. The next time it pukes, just leave it at that level, unless it is more than a puke.
Don
Has anyone ever posted a part number for a steel 2 groove pulley in the 5 1/4 size? I have read to find a ford pulley, but I would rather buy a new one and paint it black. I would like to try one as I run a tad warm. I have never boiled over, but a little cooler would be nice.
I run a 5 1/4" March aluminum pulley and it cost $100 
. Nuts said he's using a 5 1/4" pulley he took off his 327, maybe he can see if there's a part # on his pulley. MRHP what size pulley are you running now?
. Nuts said he's using a 5 1/4" pulley he took off his 327, maybe he can see if there's a part # on his pulley. MRHP what size pulley are you running now?
5.875" pulley
Here's 5.875" pulley that might help you.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-F...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Here's 5.875" pulley that might help you.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-F...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Just a little updade on this subject- I bought a 51/4 inch pully (March # 1633) and I finally got time to put everything back togeather.Well we made some positive progress. I flushed out the cooling system real good and I was amazed with the crap that came out! It was done last fall and I used the ornage anti-freeze for the first time. I'm not sure if that caused the problem or not. All I know for sure that, I have never drained a radiator with that amount of rust and crud coming out(it clogged the petcock twice, so I just removed it) It was nasty for only being in there for 8-9 months. I also got a little longer fan spacer and put it in, moving the fan closer to the radiator. My fan is almost half and half in the shroud, but 21/4 inches from the radiator.It will bearly hold a piece of notebook paper against the radiator at idle!!!! I'll try a little longer one later, maybe that will help? So we got the fan position almost right- a squeeky clean radiator and block- a smaller w/p pully-fresh distilled water- and a bottle of purple ice. So now its test drive time. I went into town via rural roads and highway, it at 170-180. I got to our only stoplight in town, sat for about a minute or so, it inched up to 180and stayed there!!! Progress at last! When I got moving again, it cooled back to 170 or so and stayed there all the way home. So I let it sit and idle in the driveway for a good 10 minutes. Slowly it inched its way up to 200 and stayed in that area the whole time. When I moved it around back to go in the garage,it started cooling down again. I never could have let it idle that long before-I was quite happy with the test. I'm not sure which component made the differnce, but something worked for me. I get a longer fan spacer later and put it in later, maybe that will help some at idle. I'm conserned where all that crud and slime came from, I never saw that before!!! Next weekend there is a cruise about 20 miles from me- it will git the big test then. I'd like to thank Jim K. for the info on the w/p pully. 
I can see its pushing a lot more water through the radiator. Oh, I almost forgot- I had to fabricate a small spacer inback of the pully. It bairly rubbed the waterpump. I had a big 1/8 inch washer that fit inside the pully and I just drilled 4 holes in it so that the bolts could go through!!! Thanks guys for all the help- its appreicated!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mike
I can see its pushing a lot more water through the radiator. Oh, I almost forgot- I had to fabricate a small spacer inback of the pully. It bairly rubbed the waterpump. I had a big 1/8 inch washer that fit inside the pully and I just drilled 4 holes in it so that the bolts could go through!!! Thanks guys for all the help- its appreicated!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mike
That's Great news Mike, if you run a stat you should try a test without a stat, my 57 runs 5 degs cooler without a stat. It seems like our 348-409's like lots of coolant flow. Also check and seal any air gaps between your radiator and shroud.
With the added the weight of that pulley spacer, I'll probably get you at the end of the 1/4 mile... 
Nuts...... I seem to have the heat issue solved on my car. The Be Cool 3400 CFM fan as you know. The automatic switch for the fan turns it on a 185* and it stays on until it gets down to 160*. I removed the "huge" transmission cooler I had in front of the rad. The rad is an automatic rad so it wasn't really needed, but I had the transmission cooler hanging on the wall so I put it on the car.............. 160* thermostat.
She now runs at 160* down the freeway.......... even on an 85 - 90* day. I sat in a border line up for about 45 minutes on Saturday........ and it was close to 90* outside..... temp went up to 185* fairly quickly while sitting there......... the fan came on.... and it stayed at about 180* for the rest of the wait.... the fan came on as it was supposed to and it held the temp just fine.
Something else I found out just by luck............ and asking the right guy. If you remember when I was returning from Thompson I was sort of fighting the temp thing, not real bad, not real high temps, but higher than I liked...... but also I had a bit of an ignition knock....... and I chased it, changed springs in the MSD, retarded the initial, and whatever else I could think of to get rid of the pre-ignition.......... no luck......... normal driving it was fine, but if you got on it at all she would start to rattle............
After I was home for a few days the car tried to leave me stranded.......... the ignition switch failed.......... probably the original.............I hot wired the car and continued my drive. Jim Richmond and I talked about the pre-ignition mystery, he suggested that I get on it while it was hot wired to see if there was any difference............. so I did...... the pre-ignition knock was gone........... I installed a new ignition switch and it's fine as well......... The MSD needs a full 12 volts to work properly or it will cause pre-ignition...........
(yes the resistor wire was removed when I installed the 409)
The old ignition switch was obviously restricting the voltage...........
Did that old ignition switch contribute to my temp issue ???.... I would guess it could have......... who knows............ all I know is she's fine now. I'm still going to try Jim K's smaller pulley one day when I have time................ I'll bet it will help especially at an idle.
Dave
She now runs at 160* down the freeway.......... even on an 85 - 90* day. I sat in a border line up for about 45 minutes on Saturday........ and it was close to 90* outside..... temp went up to 185* fairly quickly while sitting there......... the fan came on.... and it stayed at about 180* for the rest of the wait.... the fan came on as it was supposed to and it held the temp just fine.
Something else I found out just by luck............ and asking the right guy. If you remember when I was returning from Thompson I was sort of fighting the temp thing, not real bad, not real high temps, but higher than I liked...... but also I had a bit of an ignition knock....... and I chased it, changed springs in the MSD, retarded the initial, and whatever else I could think of to get rid of the pre-ignition.......... no luck......... normal driving it was fine, but if you got on it at all she would start to rattle............
After I was home for a few days the car tried to leave me stranded.......... the ignition switch failed.......... probably the original.............I hot wired the car and continued my drive. Jim Richmond and I talked about the pre-ignition mystery, he suggested that I get on it while it was hot wired to see if there was any difference............. so I did...... the pre-ignition knock was gone........... I installed a new ignition switch and it's fine as well......... The MSD needs a full 12 volts to work properly or it will cause pre-ignition...........
(yes the resistor wire was removed when I installed the 409)
The old ignition switch was obviously restricting the voltage...........
Did that old ignition switch contribute to my temp issue ???.... I would guess it could have......... who knows............ all I know is she's fine now. I'm still going to try Jim K's smaller pulley one day when I have time................ I'll bet it will help especially at an idle.
Dave
Say what ??? !!!
Okay, so there is something to think about ???? I don't know if it will help the overheating, but I am running the MSD off the resistor wire in the SB stock wiring harness. I figured that I wouldn't need the resistor block on the firewall because my wiring harness already reduced the voltage !!!
I do have pinging even with the timing retarded to 8 degree (initial).
How would I go about running a new wire to by pass the stock ignition wire in the harness ??
Bill
Dave said:
Okay, so there is something to think about ???? I don't know if it will help the overheating, but I am running the MSD off the resistor wire in the SB stock wiring harness. I figured that I wouldn't need the resistor block on the firewall because my wiring harness already reduced the voltage !!!
I do have pinging even with the timing retarded to 8 degree (initial). How would I go about running a new wire to by pass the stock ignition wire in the harness ??
Bill
............. that's exactly what I did when I installed the 409.
Dave
Okay !
So is the wire only resistor from the bulkhead to the coil or on the inside to the switch also ? I have not replaced the ignition switch, only the lock mechanism. I'll have to take a look at it in the next couple of days and see what it will take to replace it. The harness in the engine compartment was replaced during the restoration, so I don't know if I can get the wire out of the harness ?
Bill
So is the wire only resistor from the bulkhead to the coil or on the inside to the switch also ? I have not replaced the ignition switch, only the lock mechanism. I'll have to take a look at it in the next couple of days and see what it will take to replace it. The harness in the engine compartment was replaced during the restoration, so I don't know if I can get the wire out of the harness ?
Bill
Don,
I'm using the stock ignition switch and wiring for a small block ? I have an MSD distributor with vacumm advance.
Bill
