I think I would want a small amount of clearance on the pushrod, maybe 1/16" to 1/18". About the thickness of a gasket anyways. You can always put a piece of clay on the pushrod, assemble, disassemble and check the thickness.
LF brake getting hot!
- Thread starter bobs409
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.030" is the technically correct amount, Exact doesn't matter as long as it isn't pushing on the master plunger
Is there supposed to be a gasket in between the master and booster? If so, that would move it out a tad.
Now here is the thing... I just drove it all over my area and it's working great now! Absolutely no pull, stops nice and when I got back, both front hubs were the same temps. (only light warm, normal)
I have to drive it some more yet to be sure but I think it would have been acting up by now.
Now here is the thing... I just drove it all over my area and it's working great now! Absolutely no pull, stops nice and when I got back, both front hubs were the same temps. (only light warm, normal)
I have to drive it some more yet to be sure but I think it would have been acting up by now.
No gasket. What did you change that it's ok now?
The only thing I changed was the small 5 inch long line. I took it off to make sure it wasn't blocked but the end got twisted so I can't tell. Hose is clear. I made a new line and bled the LH side. That's all I did. (other than pull the master away from booster to check that)
That's for manual brakes. I wonder if there's such a thing for power brakes?
So I have another report. I took the car back out for about 20 more miles of driving. It is doing great but when I got back I checked the temp of the hubs and the LH was just a "skosh" warmer. So I'm not sure if it's fixed yet!
I can safely say it's a BIG improvement! I have to get some gas for it and continue "testing" another day. (my favorite part)
I was thinking, if I do need to ease up on that rod to master, I can probably drill the back of the piston out a little. (whatever amount is needed) Unless someone knows how to adjust this.
Can you adjust the push rod on the pedal side?
That doesn't effect the booster pin length. I doubt his is too long, both brakes would be dragging or locked.
That's for manual brakes. I wonder if there's such a thing for power brakes?
So I have another report. I took the car back out for about 20 more miles of driving. It is doing great but when I got back I checked the temp of the hubs and the LH was just a "skosh" warmer. So I'm not sure if it's fixed yet!
I have to get some gas for it and continue "testing" another day. (my favorite part)
I was thinking, if I do need to ease up on that rod to master, I can probably drill the back of the piston out a little. (whatever amount is needed) Unless someone knows how to adjust this.
Two flat washers is much cheaper and has same result
I'm a little worried about the rubber vacuum seal. If the master is held away, it might leak??
I did look under the dash but do not see any adjustments there. It's not like a manual rod that has threads and a locking nut.
The booster doesn't need the master to be sealed to it.
Not by the thickness of a washer. There is nothing to leak back there
Ok, I'll give that a try.
Except if it's already fixed no need to do any thing more
True. I'm not convinced that it's fixed just yet. Another day of cruising should help.
You can make a gasket, just get the material and cut it out if you feel better about having it sealed. I have made gaskets for lawn mower and other stuff. Really easy if you have the hole punchers,which I don't but they are obtainable.
If you do not have punches and shoot guns like me, use your old brass as a punch. Used this a lot when I was younger when I would make gaskets. I made many gaskets from cereal boxes and brown paper bags. If it worked 40 years ago it should still work today.