Hubs are ok??? So then drums need resurfacing sounds like to me . Whats your opinion????
LF brake getting hot!
- Thread starter bobs409
- Start date
You could not resurface old drums because at limits now discard is 11.08 what 58 delivery said and its stamped on new drums. So new drums were in order but resurfacing is probably going to be the fix.
With what hub?With the RH drum swapped over, and brake adjusted out to make contact, it's hitting in one spot as well.
Is the backing plate smashed up on bottom. Cant see in any pictures.
Nope, checked both and they look good. I had the RH hub and RH drum on last test.
I would say get drum's resurfaced with hubs in them.
I guess that's my only option. Got these done a few years ago for $15/pr. I wonder what it will cost now?
I checked the LH hub and it was only about .15 thousandths.
Yes But i bet you did not have hubs bolted on with the lug nuts???I guess that's my only option. Got these done a few years ago for $15/pr. I wonder what it will cost now?
Nope. Never even thought of it!
This better fix it or I'm sending you the bill!
Be sure to mark them or use whats there if you ever seperate them.
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If you are still having this problem, have you checked the backing plate contact points where the shoes rest? I have seen a ton of backing plates have pretty deep wear marks into the plates due to lack of lubricant. This keeps the shoes from sliding easily. Just another thought. I have not reread this post. Maybe already mentioned?
I did check the contact areas and all looked really good. I'm just waiting for the next nice day so I can get back to work on this.
Do you mean .015 or .150? If it is really .150 that’s a shit ton!
I guess it would be .015 not .15
Surprise! I was working on the Impala again. (not that I wanted to, I forced myself!)
Pulled master from booster and the rod might be pushing the master a slight bit upon tightening the bolts but if so, not too bad. Should there be slop there? No real easy way to measure it. I see no way to adjust that rod!!! It spins but that's all it does. It does not pull out more than 1/2".
I would love to crank this in a little for a test but don't see a way of doing so. ????
Other than that, I removed the small line that goes to the LF from a small 4 way junction block on the frame. Of course it twisted so I had to make a new one!!!
As near as I can tell, it was not plugged. I took the brake hose off and it's clear, can blow air thru both ways.
That's where I am at now. Might take if for a spin later. Not expecting anything got fixed though from today's debacle.
I still would like to pull the LF wheel cylinder apart and make sure it's good. After that I am out of ideas.
(not that I wanted to, I forced myself!)Pulled master from booster and the rod might be pushing the master a slight bit upon tightening the bolts but if so, not too bad. Should there be slop there? No real easy way to measure it. I see no way to adjust that rod!!! It spins but that's all it does. It does not pull out more than 1/2".
I would love to crank this in a little for a test but don't see a way of doing so. ????
Other than that, I removed the small line that goes to the LF from a small 4 way junction block on the frame. Of course it twisted so I had to make a new one!!!
As near as I can tell, it was not plugged. I took the brake hose off and it's clear, can blow air thru both ways.
That's where I am at now. Might take if for a spin later. Not expecting anything got fixed though from today's debacle.
I still would like to pull the LF wheel cylinder apart and make sure it's good. After that I am out of ideas.
Since you don't have the tool for checking booster pin length just install a flat washer between master and booster on each post to move master outward a wee bit. Should answer concern