Did you ever check the hub for being bent as i mentioned earliet with dial indicator??? Or you can switch hubs side to side to see if it solves problem on left. Are the shoes on square (bent backing plates) .
LF brake getting hot!
- Thread starter bobs409
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I've been meaning to ask how to check with dial indicator? Will check on the other things you mentioned.
You put dial indicator against face of hub and rotate hub and see how much run out it has. Compared to right to see if any big difference. You should be able to spin hub drum off and see any wobble. Or switch with right to see if any difference.
You can lay something like a block of wood next to wheel studs from the side and turn hub and see if all stud's are same distance to the wood you have next to it.
I'm reading 4-5 thousandths out. Shoes appear to be seated evenly against backing plate.
I'm going to swap the hubs now, will be back... (go grab a snack!)
Quit eating!!! Compare it right side!! Ok you might have to get drums turned as i did once with new drums on my pickup. I would suggest placeing hub and drum bolted toghether when resurfaced and marked after turning not to lose the combination of hub to drum.This is why on disc brake resurfacing discs on the car is a more accurate way than just turning a disc off the car separated from hub.Only do this after checking everything thing else as mentioned.I'm reading 4-5 thousandths out. Shoes appear to be seated evenly against backing plate.
I'm going to swap the hubs now, will be back... (go grab a snack!)
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Put drum on and bolt check outer runout of drum
Done. Outer area of face is almost .30 out. If I move in close to the lug studs, it gets less about .15
What I don't understand is how it's doing that with the RH hub still on.
Like i said i put four new drums on a pickup once and had to get those machined to take care of the pulsation out of round. Fine after that.Done. Outer area of face is almost .30 out. If I move in close to the lug studs, it gets less about .15
What I don't understand is how it's doing that with the RH hub still on.
Maybe hubs are bad also.Done. Outer area of face is almost .30 out. If I move in close to the lug studs, it gets less about .15
What I don't understand is how it's doing that with the RH hub still on.
Unless hubs are really bad on run out which would be unusual i say you will have to get drums resurfaced with hubs bolted to them and permanent marking to save orientation.
Every manufacturer has its own specification for wheel flange runout. Most specifications fall between 0.0015” and 0”.
Do the drums have a small tang that can be bent into a locating hole on the hub? I can’t remember what years had that, but it’s there for a reason.
Also, I’ve got a bunch of extra hubs, if needed Bob.
Also, I’ve got a bunch of extra hubs, if needed Bob.
When resurfacing drums and hub we always tried to put the cone's in middle of inner and outer race for a accurate resurface. The machinest probably knows that ??? Maybe???
The old ones have that tang. The new ones have 3 smaller holes and one would be in the same area as the tang. Hubs do have a partially drilled hole where that tang would go.
Might be all in the drums did you ever swap the old drums side to side?
No but I will try it next.
I just tried the other new drum and indicator on the outer face and that was .50 thousandths out. Then I put the old one on and it's only .15.