Looks great!!! 
How is the bead floor finished?
An access panel to get to the pump, heaven hopes you don't need it.
How is the bead floor finished?
An access panel to get to the pump, heaven hopes you don't need it.
Don's gone Crazy Stroker, 1966 C-10
- Thread starter plumcrazy
- Start date
Looks great!!!
How is the bead floor finished?
An access panel to get to the pump, heaven hopes you don't need it.
Thanks LA!! Great question and not a great answer.. The only way to pull the pump is to lower the tank so fingers crossed no leaks. In hindsight, i should have left the lines long enough to rest the tank on the the floor while still connected. That would have made it easier to let me test and build pressure and fix if needed before i mount it up... I used the jack to pump up the tank and wasn't terrible...
Had a little time today and was able to nibble at the last few things before i remount the tank. Supply and return runs are complete to the tank itself. I used permatex blue for the connections and made sure nothing was in the line itself. I dont know how much pressure to use on the fittings but if i were to guess, i did them like a sparkplug, finger tight, 1/4 turn or so...Figure I can always sinch" it down if it leaks and better than stripping a thread...
I had Jeanne take a quick video of a method i read and worked great installing the pushlock fittings. Seemed to work slick as snot so passing it on...
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I use a wrench on those A-N fitting, just snug them down, never used sealer on them, never had a leak or threads stripped.
Tanks in and extended that line I mentioned, it's the right way...
Next on the list clean up a bit of the wiring, driveshaft back in, and finish in the engine bay...
Does anyone know the correct radiator hose that starts straight and goes to the driverside? I spent 30min in the local store and no luck
Next on the list clean up a bit of the wiring, driveshaft back in, and finish in the engine bay...
Does anyone know the correct radiator hose that starts straight and goes to the driverside? I spent 30min in the local store and no luck
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SAAWEEET! Thanks James, that should work perfect and bought two, one for betsy! Starting to look like something!
Quick update... Heard from Zack and GPHeaders and hopefully he'll be on them next week and out to me. Fingers scossed...
On my hoses, i hosed my self ha!
The bottom hose I bought is a little short to connect, the engine sits to far back so I'll head to a few local parts stores and see what i can find. As for the top, will that work? It was a little "snug":>)...
On my hoses, i hosed my self ha!
The bottom hose I bought is a little short to connect, the engine sits to far back so I'll head to a few local parts stores and see what i can find. As for the top, will that work? It was a little "snug":>)...
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"Well, it has to happen sometime", and after those faithful words I connected the battery and began the startup sequence.
Pulled the fuse for the fuel pump (wanted to deal with elec first and plumbing second), and have no connection from coil to dizzy. From here i turned the key to on and the air ride and ECU came to life. ... With that success, turned it off, put the fuse back in the fuel pump and back to on. The pump came to life and dripped at the connection for the return line to regulator and supply to fuel rail. (During install I didnt know the amount of "tighten" and thought its better to sneak up on something later if it dripped than break it from the get-go).
From here i connected my laptop and saw it had the "default" tune calling for 43psi, but as you can see in the pics it stopped at 18. I know you can adjust it by turning clockwise the regulator, but its locked down and the dyno had it at the right pressure.
Should be an easy fix and pinged carl to see if I can get in touch with the tuner that did the tune so I can upload it...
Kinda cool to smell fuel again :>)
Pulled the fuse for the fuel pump (wanted to deal with elec first and plumbing second), and have no connection from coil to dizzy. From here i turned the key to on and the air ride and ECU came to life. ... With that success, turned it off, put the fuse back in the fuel pump and back to on. The pump came to life and dripped at the connection for the return line to regulator and supply to fuel rail. (During install I didnt know the amount of "tighten" and thought its better to sneak up on something later if it dripped than break it from the get-go).
From here i connected my laptop and saw it had the "default" tune calling for 43psi, but as you can see in the pics it stopped at 18. I know you can adjust it by turning clockwise the regulator, but its locked down and the dyno had it at the right pressure.
Should be an easy fix and pinged carl to see if I can get in touch with the tuner that did the tune so I can upload it...
Kinda cool to smell fuel again :>)
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Great call and will test tomorrow. Just ran down and threw it on the trickle, was sitting for a bit
Also,before you turn any screws,put a mechanical fuel pressure gauge on that system and see if the gauge matches your hand held.If it does,you've got some pump related issues.If not,and it's close to the requirements,you've got a pressure sensor that's lying.Call me.
about a year or so ago i was going thru elec fuel pumps in the tank. took the vette to a real old timer. he said the pumps were
getting less than 12 volts and burning up the pumps. turns out i had a broken relay. i did not know a slightly lower voltage
would burn up a elec pump. jim
getting less than 12 volts and burning up the pumps. turns out i had a broken relay. i did not know a slightly lower voltage
would burn up a elec pump. jim
Have a bit of an update but still chasing a gremlin...
The FAST system has a main harness that you plug a solid state fuel pump relay into and it hands you a single lead red wire you run to your pump. When I test at the pump, i see only 11.2 volts.
When i go north at the batt, 12.3..
(Keep in mind, I have not hit the starter yet, so that drop doesnt include the strain on turning the beast)
When you unplug their fp harness from their main harness and test their red feed wire I see 12.2..
Now you might think it's the relay, but when you turn the truck to the on position, voltage drops to 11.4..
I ran a lead wire from the battery negative to re-ground directly to the pump and no change. I switched that wire to the positive sides of the pump and batt, the pump fired to life and had me at 40psi in a second...
The fast relay does not have a direct feed to the batt, it supply's it from its main.
I called american autowire, the main witing for the truck and the fella suggested we shouldn't be running power through the ignition and take over the relay and run from the feed direct..
We may have to do that but after talking to Don, today I'll chase the drop to see what that may be from, then maybe go that route...
(I'll swap the battery too. I just dont think the items i have should drop so much but I dont know..)
Otherwise, superhappy no leaks and the regulator into the engine and its setting look awesome!
The FAST system has a main harness that you plug a solid state fuel pump relay into and it hands you a single lead red wire you run to your pump. When I test at the pump, i see only 11.2 volts.
When i go north at the batt, 12.3..
(Keep in mind, I have not hit the starter yet, so that drop doesnt include the strain on turning the beast)
When you unplug their fp harness from their main harness and test their red feed wire I see 12.2..
Now you might think it's the relay, but when you turn the truck to the on position, voltage drops to 11.4..
I ran a lead wire from the battery negative to re-ground directly to the pump and no change. I switched that wire to the positive sides of the pump and batt, the pump fired to life and had me at 40psi in a second...
The fast relay does not have a direct feed to the batt, it supply's it from its main.
I called american autowire, the main witing for the truck and the fella suggested we shouldn't be running power through the ignition and take over the relay and run from the feed direct..
We may have to do that but after talking to Don, today I'll chase the drop to see what that may be from, then maybe go that route...
(I'll swap the battery too. I just dont think the items i have should drop so much but I dont know..)
Otherwise, superhappy no leaks and the regulator into the engine and its setting look awesome!
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Solved!
It turns out the voltage drop was a symptom but not the only problem.
Today I got a chance to get back on the truck and started with the fuel pump relay. The FAST relay passes power to the fuel pump, so after some advice decided cut their hand-off at the plug and run a hot feed directly to battery.. Best practice.
With this done, I still landed at 16psi, not 40! So I ran a straight hot from the BATT to FP and it worked, so what was happening?
After some head scratching it turned out that time was the issue. It takes time for the fuel from the back of the truck to make its way to the rail and returned back, and while this is happening the display for the ECU is coming online. When the display would come online, the 8 seconds had passed and the fuel pressure would drop to 16psi. When I would run power direct, the pump runs continuously, so the display would finish booting and be able to display pressure with the pump on.
With that, I went into the ECU, made a change from the 8 seconds to 15 and wammo, 40 psi! It captured the PSI with pump on, problem solved!
It turned out to be a good use of time, checked things twice and one step closer.
Now on to cleaning up the ecu wiring, mess and clean up the connections at the battery terminals, running a new oil pressure line. Might hit the starter tomorrow too, no plug wires, just make sure she rotates...
It turns out the voltage drop was a symptom but not the only problem.
Today I got a chance to get back on the truck and started with the fuel pump relay. The FAST relay passes power to the fuel pump, so after some advice decided cut their hand-off at the plug and run a hot feed directly to battery.. Best practice.
With this done, I still landed at 16psi, not 40! So I ran a straight hot from the BATT to FP and it worked, so what was happening?
After some head scratching it turned out that time was the issue. It takes time for the fuel from the back of the truck to make its way to the rail and returned back, and while this is happening the display for the ECU is coming online. When the display would come online, the 8 seconds had passed and the fuel pressure would drop to 16psi. When I would run power direct, the pump runs continuously, so the display would finish booting and be able to display pressure with the pump on.
With that, I went into the ECU, made a change from the 8 seconds to 15 and wammo, 40 psi! It captured the PSI with pump on, problem solved!
It turned out to be a good use of time, checked things twice and one step closer.
Now on to cleaning up the ecu wiring, mess and clean up the connections at the battery terminals, running a new oil pressure line. Might hit the starter tomorrow too, no plug wires, just make sure she rotates...
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Ha, dont jump ship quite yet my friend, too soon to say..Over time as we post you'll be converted as we dial in things, wait and see.....