Fuel lines and antifreeze
- Thread starter Iowa409
- Start date
Good point, for the engine brake in/engine stand time, run time I did just that actually double gasket, but in the permanent install, I am just worried about heat, and a good seal, and performance. Its not a track car, its a street car, but performance is key, I just want to turn the key and cruise.
I dont have a choke, because of the headers, I am reasonably sure based on everything else I bought that day, the guys story was BS, who knows what I have for a carb, it is a GC4 but if its from a Buick, or Corvair Hell I do not know, he sold it with no tags to me, had the correct angle fuel inlet, looked right to me, but with the new AVS I'll have a warranty, no funny business going on inside of it, factory support if needed.
The things I do not know, is if my factory breather will still work, plumbing (I know it can be done, just have to work through it) Vacum lines
I can easily get parts for it, I am thinking my car is not a factory reproduction Queen anyways , it totally resto-mod, so I can throw the originality out the window anyways, I did not get to hung up on that as much as I wanted it the car I have had in mind as a COOL CAR, at least my version of it lol.
You don't need a spread bore to square bore adapter.
So it should just bolt on?
The Edelbrock instruction book will tell you to use the rt.side fitting which is ported.Don't fall for it,use the left side fitting which is manifold vacuum. Yes it should boolt on but these carbs are heat sensitive and should always be used with a spacer,especially on an iron manifold .Trans Dapt makes a "plastic" 1/2 inch spacer that would be perfect for your use.
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I spoke to them this morning the carb will be here about noon, they (JEGS) say I will need an adaptor to go from 4 jet to their mount, I'll set it on to check when I get it. Edelbrock Tech support states this Don:
Back of the carb for Brake booster
Passenger side (Right) for vacum advance, so front right
Front of the carb, 3/8 barb to the intake manifold/PVC system
No left side[drivers side] for the vacuum advance.I have already warned you about that .You're right on the rest.You will not need the adapter on this 4g,the smaller ones would.Aparently the folks at Jegs think that all 4gc's are the same.Not true as this is a bigger carb that was used on very few engines.You'll still want the spacer to prevent vapor lock and fuel boiling.
I know that was my point, they said exactly what you guessed they would say, on the vacum advance. lol, the carb will be here soon, the adaptor or insulator not until tomorrow then it should be go time.
Yep, I just got back with everything and looked in the install book for connections, now show to use the passenger if its a timed vacum advance or the dric=vers side for full manifold vacum, so they must have figured it out too.
So in Iowa it gets dark early and after work I stopped and got the stuff to connect the engine crank/vent stuff and brake booster, carb is all mounted with the 1" spacer, I noticed on Page 4 of the install manual it shows not to set this up with a open plenum set up, so that is exactly what I had done, I spoke to Edelbrock and they said they put that warning in there because some cars experience weird crap with an open plenum set up, time will tell.
Starting it tomorrow, getting off early enough to have some day light, 4 speed with this Idle should be? 750-800?
Starting it tomorrow, getting off early enough to have some day light, 4 speed with this Idle should be? 750-800?
Didn't think you had a open plenum 
Didn't think you had a open plenum
I do not, but with the 1" spacer it is a open plenum style spacer that is just a spacer that lifts the carb up 1 full inch off the stock GM manifold.
Thats what I was referencing earlier it says on page 4 of the AVS2 manual with Rochester carb not to use open plenum it distorts the gas flow/spray?
But when I called Edelbrock they said try it and see, if it messes with flow I will have to go to a different style., if I understood them correctly.
Anyone have any history with an issue doing this?
Don, thats at idle with choke up to temp and open or not in use and in neutral a flat 700-750?
I would have gone with a 4 hole spacer, but you should be fine. May take a little playing with to make you and it happy.
UPDATE:
I got to the point to turning the key and starting the car, no start, of course lol.
I am not getting my 12 volts to the coil, no fire, no start.................
I converted my car this summer to HEI Ready to run Distributor, so new engine harness from American Auto wire and a new headlight loom, installed.
I get a full 12V at the pink wire in the cranking position, but when I turn key switch to the run/on position (Not Cranking position) I should have 12 volts on that circuit as well, to keep the coil hot during drive time.
New ignition switch installed also, new starter, now if getting it started was the only thing I cared about I could run a hot from the battery to get it started I am guessing, but I need to figure out the wiring, I've added so many new components I will just have to go back through and sort it out.
It got cold and it got dark, so, the hood was closed until, I can get back to it, cold weather in Iowa means my phone is busy (HVAC Contractor)
I did buy a after market cheap ass ignition switch from Japan, so maybe that's it, updates soon, with these Impalas they do send cranking 12 volts to the coil and run 12 volts after cranking in the run position, so two different sources to trace out.
I got to the point to turning the key and starting the car, no start, of course lol.
I am not getting my 12 volts to the coil, no fire, no start.................
I converted my car this summer to HEI Ready to run Distributor, so new engine harness from American Auto wire and a new headlight loom, installed.
I get a full 12V at the pink wire in the cranking position, but when I turn key switch to the run/on position (Not Cranking position) I should have 12 volts on that circuit as well, to keep the coil hot during drive time.
New ignition switch installed also, new starter, now if getting it started was the only thing I cared about I could run a hot from the battery to get it started I am guessing, but I need to figure out the wiring, I've added so many new components I will just have to go back through and sort it out.
It got cold and it got dark, so, the hood was closed until, I can get back to it, cold weather in Iowa means my phone is busy (HVAC Contractor)
I did buy a after market cheap ass ignition switch from Japan, so maybe that's it, updates soon, with these Impalas they do send cranking 12 volts to the coil and run 12 volts after cranking in the run position, so two different sources to trace out.