Fuel lines and antifreeze

[Iowa409]

The most understood thing, I am thinking right now is, (1) I am a Heating and Cooling Contractor of 38 years, I do this everyday, controls, wiring etc.
I have a nice, moderate sized shop for one guy, 720 sq ft. small, but I installed a brand new heating and cooling system in there this summer, to....you know, have a nice heated place to work this winter, its all installed and working great, but I have turned my garage into a storage facility all year and you could not fit a fiat in there, let alone a 20' car, I need to re-evaluate my next move , maybe stop clean the shop, ( in the heat) put crap away, and be warm and happy working on my car, instead of shivering and asking myself...... WHY..... WHY.........I know if I could concentrate for 1-2 hours I could have this electric sorted out, but I am taking the , its to cold approach, staring out the window calling IT the S.O.B. lmao

 

[boxerdog]

I can only sympathize. I have never had enough space and too much crap is an ongoing problem, I am jealous of the HVAC.

 

[Jim Sullivan]

I've had connection issues at the firewall bulk head connectors several times. I have a 3 1/2 car and a small two car garage. Still not enough room to work on everything. I too need to stop and clean up the messes. But, I hate taking time away from my projects for cleaning.

 

[Iowa409]

I've had connection issues at the firewall bulk head connectors several times. I have a 3 1/2 car and a small two car garage. Still not enough room to work on everything. I too need to stop and clean up the messes. But, I hate taking time away from my projects for cleaning.

I stopped and bought another ignition switch just incase the resistance portion is screwed up, but I am very suspect of that bulk head connection myself. I will get to it tomorrow hopefully.

 

[oldskydog]

So your original wiring harness was for a 327 which has a resistance wire in the harness rather than a ballast resistor. Then you converted to HEI, so you bypassed the reistance circuit or was that when you got the new Autowire harness? Was the new harness for 327 like original or for 409 which has ballast resistor?

 

[Iowa409]

I wont get to deep into the electrical (Kind'a boring) but new switch, new upgrade HEI engine wiring loom from American Auto Wire, all plug n play, one wire that you must install in the Bulk head, a thicker wire to carry more load, New head light harness loom, to do away with all the voltage regulator stuff, clean it up. Plug n play, The very same coil and distributor ran it just fine on the engine run stand, the only new thing introduced is my cars electrical circuit. Modifications at the Bulk Head, first place I am going on this, for those that get into this part of it, the red wire carries voltage to the ignition switch, full 12 V there, switch to run, diminished voltage, 4 volts? Should be 12 V, then in crank position should be 12V, coil can pick up 12 V from key, or the during cranking via the S terminal on starter solenoid.

So it could be a bad ignition switch, got one spare now, or it could be some sort of a short or cross voltage at that bulk head or something back feeding some distorted voltage, either way, when it warms up or I clean my shop, thats the next phase, lol

 

[Iowa409]

So your original wiring harness was for a 327 which has a resistance wire in the harness rather than a ballast resistor. Then you converted to HEI, so you bypassed the reistance circuit or was that when you got the new Autowire harness? Was the new harness for 327 like original or for 409 which has ballast resistor?

Yes and Yes, the original car harness was aa 327 no ballast resistor, but a resistor wire (Orange/white/Purple on V8, that was stripped and removed from the car, the new loom from AAW has the wires already made up to be just what you need, the resistance wire is replaced by a single pink wire 10 ga, that runs towards the passenger side, but at the distributor, it breaks out there and adds a second 14 ga Pink wire, one runs down to S terminal on starter, and the other goes to the + side of the external coil.

I am sure its this cheap switch I tried to skimp on, or my eyes not doing a good job connecting at the bulk head, because there is a modification you have to do inside the car as well, so the pink wire from the ignition switch is added 10ga, and it reconnects at the bulk head, you take the 2 1/4" screws out drop the glass fuse holder and plug it in and reassemble, that is my work and I could have easily not got something right.

 

[Iowa409]

Also OLDSKYDOG, they from what I recall, when upgrading to HEI, AAW, does away with all resistance wire, no matter what size engine and they also do away with ballast resistor, obviously since your up grading to HEI, no need for points type voltage anymore, as far as I recall, that was last year, lol

 

[La Hot Rods]

Make sure you have a good battery and good grounds.

 

[wristpin]

Make sure you have a good battery and good grounds.

As James said check good ground. Check that ground then add another ground from batt to frame and frame to block.
Long story short...this year went to fire up '67 El Crapmino. It had already started and run fine but now didnt. After cussing and searching and pulling starter 3 times i saw the batt ground which had been attached to the block was reattached to painted frame. Reattached that eyelet to block and world was butterfly's and rainbows again.
BTW it was Tooths buddy Jerome who moved that ground wire. Accident or sabetage??

 

[La Hot Rods]

 

[Iowa409]

Guys, this was the problem, I plugged the pink upgrade wire into the wrong spot, it never made contact with the ignition switch, OOPS

Now I have voltage at the coil, still wont start, because the fuel pump would not prime, new tank, new lines ,never had fuel before, finally got it primed, still wont start, checked coil, had power both sides of the coil, secondary side was open, coil junk.

I am running a TOP STREET Ready to run HEI distributor, kit comes with a 50,000 VOLT COIL, SAYS NOT USE ANYTHING LESS FOR OUTPUT, DISTRIBUTOR NEED THE 50,000 (I say bs) I can get up in the morning and go get a off the shelf, 45,000 volt coil that I think would work just fine
for about $50.

OR.......... I was thinking about putting a 6AL box on it for the rev limiter protection.
that route is about $350, with a coil.

My problem is, it is a 409, 340 hsp, engine that will get babied most of its time and the occasional, hot rod fun time.

I don't mind putting it on if there is benefit to it. Any thoughts?

 

[La Hot Rods]

I think you need to look at the resistant of the coil not the output voltage.

 

[Iowa409]

I think you need to look at the resistant of the coil not the output voltage.

I had someone else mention that too, what's a good resistance number?

 

[La Hot Rods]

Depends on your ignition system.
On your car if you have a electronic ignition system you will not want a resistor wire going to the coil. I remember you had a new harness.

 

[Iowa409]

yes new american auto wire engine harness set up for hei, no resistor wire/no ballast resistor, curious if anyone driving on the streets is using that 6AL system.

 

[La Hot Rods]

I have run them but never on the street, but sure many have. What is your cranking voltage?

 

[Iowa409]

I have run them but never on the street, but sure many have. What is your cranking voltage?

What is that? amp drawl of the starter during cranking?

 

[Iowa409]

The thing I am really looking for that the 6AL offers is the rev limiter, but is there a better way to do that if I do not need the rest of the package of that box?

 

[La Hot Rods]

That would be voltage at the coil + during cranking. I would start with spark out of the coil wire, if nothing there I would look at the control box that was converting points or what ever was replacing the points.