Wilson Header Mfg.

models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#61
Pic shows a modified control arm bolt on top to clear the #1 tube. Stock motor mount for the 348-409, to me, seems different thickness from what is sold today. Would make a difference maybe on fit? I have a set of unwelded tubes from Show-Cars to work on this Winter, you're work or the previous owner? Headers look good. Should be an easy sell. Any dyno numbers?
 

Mark Wilson

Well Known Member
#63
OK
Pic shows a modified control arm bolt on top to clear the #1 tube. Stock motor mount for the 348-409, to me, seems different thickness from what is sold today. Would make a difference maybe on fit? I have a set of unwelded tubes from Show-Cars to work on this Winter, you're work or the previous owner? Headers look good. Should be an easy sell. Any dyno numbers?
The front upper control arm bolt is turned around facing outward, but I do not think that that was done to clear the #1 header tube. I have not had a clearance issue there in the past unless an overly long bolt stuck out way past the threads of the nut.
Stock motor mounts can be an issue. These headers were originally test fit to a vehicle by me. Test car was a bone stock original un-restored and unmolested 1962 BelAir. The original motor mounts to my knowledge are unavailable on the aftermarket and are slightly different than both the small block and big block mounts. There is a blueprint of the original mounts out there in cyberspace somewhere that one could use to have there original mounts re-vulcanized.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
#64
I posted the Anchor mount number a long time ago, there was a thread on the topic. I think they are still available.

Anchor 2285 is 409 (taller) mount
Anchor 2142 is the SBC (lower) mount

Many times, the engine will fit in the car using the SBC mount, but there is a potential for front crossmember interference for high-perf exhaust manifolds and some oil pans such as Stef's.
 

Mark Wilson

Well Known Member
#65
Don't run down the Doug's tri headers. They fit nice and produce a great power curve that is hard to duplicate on a 4 tube.
I have not run down Doug's try-y headers and will not. He makes a good product. The expected end use and build characteristics of the engine are important factors to consider in a headers design. Try-y headers are very good at building low end torque at lower rpm's than a four tube header. This was very important in years past especially on small block engines that were notoriously lacking in the torque department. Try-y headers are much easier to make and have much less problems as far as clearance issues go. Four tube headers will always produce more horsepower especially on the top end, torque can be maximized by using longer primaries 32"-36" in length. Collector length and diameter as well as tube diameter will effect torque and horsepower as well.
These new headers that I am offering with 2.00 inch primaries are a product of customer demand. With the advent of aftermarket heads and better engine builds customers are turning higher rpm's and making a lot more horsepower than in years past. On a stock engine this larger primary could be a net negative compared to the original 1 7/8 primary header and maybe even the Try-y design

Mark
 

Mark Wilson

Well Known Member
#66
I posted the Anchor mount number a long time ago, there was a thread on the topic. I think they are still available.

Anchor 2285 is 409 (taller) mount
Anchor 2142 is the SBC (lower) mount

Many times, the engine will fit in the car using the SBC mount, but there is a potential for front crossmember interference for high-perf exhaust manifolds and some oil pans such as Stef's.
Thank's Dave.
 

scott hall

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#68
Fellers, just wanted to let everyone know that the Wilson headers fit great even on our wore out ride. The clearance at control arms,starter,frame rails and motor mounts. Will even have plenty of room for the stock canister oil filter. When installing them I used a bungy cord to hold them in so I could start a bolt or they will fall back out. They don't need dented or clearenced. They fit very well and are a nice thick well built header. Best and easiest new set I've installed. I know there are more good things I could say. Mr Wilson is also great to talk to. Very good feller.

Scott
 

La Hot Rods

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
#72
Better late than never. :cool:
I did get the new tubes on the Shaker and man oh man I think it got uncorked :winner
Fit was good and easy to install :good
I moved the fuel and rear brake line up on top the frame rail. Now this being a race car no big deal (I need a larger one anyway);)
I also had to make room for the dipstick tube.
All in all I am a happy camper. :D
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I went with a mini starter to save a little weight for the added weight.:brow
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I will try and get some better picture before it comes off the rack.
Trying to make it to Mo-Kan on Sunday to see how they help. :burnout
 

La Hot Rods

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
#73
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a look at the pass side
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Plenty of room around the starter and think it could be changed without header removal.
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Driver side up against the rear of the inner fender well.
Now this car is rusty and am sure the body mounts are old and tired.
The engine sounds completely different now with these over the try y that were on the car.
Can't wait to try them out.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
#74
You guys will have to excuse the dirty and un tidy ness of the car....... Tom said to make it a race car not a show car. ;)
Mr Wilson I think you have a great product and sure what few point I have encountered you have already address.
That you for your offer to try these and the effort to make parts to help open the performance of these great engines. :appl:appl:appl
 

sycsteve

Well Known Member
#75
Has anyone dyno tested or raced with these yet? I wanted to go with long tube headers but didn't want to destroy them to get them in and didn't have the tools to build a set when I bought my Tri Y headers. I don't regret buying them though. Just curious. Might have to buy a set in the future.
I'm not even sure what mine will do in the Chassis dyno yet.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
#76
Has anyone dyno tested or raced with these yet? I wanted to go with long tube headers but didn't want to destroy them to get them in and didn't have the tools to build a set when I bought my Tri Y headers. I don't regret buying them though. Just curious. Might have to buy a set in the future.
I'm not even sure what mine will do in the Chassis dyno yet.
I am going to track test them tomorrow against the tri y that I was running.:cool:
 

Mark Wilson

Well Known Member
#77
View attachment 56752
a look at the pass side
View attachment 56753
View attachment 56754
Plenty of room around the starter and think it could be changed without header removal.
View attachment 56755
Driver side up against the rear of the inner fender well.
Now this car is rusty and am sure the body mounts are old and tired.
The engine sounds completely different now with these over the try y that were on the car.
Can't wait to try them out.
Could you take another picture or two of the drivers side clearance where it crosses under the frame. It seems every set that I have sent out has fit a bit differently on each car. I may need to make a few adjustments on the next run for additional clearance.
Mark
 
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